[BatterBits]

Greetings All,

Oh dear... what have I done!

I have just signed up for a new plot. New as in, last week it was a field - as far as I remember, it has had sheep grazing over the last fer years. The farmer has killed off the grass (I think he said he used Round-up) and rotovated it. As yet, I have no idea of the soil condition - although it didn't look like it was clay, and didn't seem to be full of weeds.

I have no doubt I am going to live here, asking silly questions - so please be gentle - I have no experience of gardening - yes, I'm one of those noobies 

My plot measures 50 feet (East-West) by 20 feet (North-South) with the "entrance" to the path on the  east. It rises slightly - say 20-30cm over the length (E-W) of the plot, with the westerly end being the higher.

At the moment, we understand that the Council has decreed that no buildings can be erected - we are hoping to ascertain that a shed doesn't constitute a "building" as it can be moved, so i would like to provision space for it. In the meantime, I am planning an 8' by 4' "planting table" with a hidden tool storage compartment...

So, first question.

How would you lay out the plot? I plan to have a comfrey bed - I have 10 plants just planted in pots in the conservatory - the greenhouse isn't being built until tomorrow!

I intend to have a compost bin - or two - and well - what else? I intend to grow all the usual stuff, and will (where appropriate) rotate the beds on a 3-4 year cycle

As I see it then I need a minimum of 7 areas -

1 - fixed area - for strawberries, asparagus and other non moveable crops
1 - Comfrey bed - how much should I allow for this - and will 10 plants be enough?
1 - fixed area for the "planting table" - We can reuse this for the shed if we get one

Plus 4 (Is this right?) areas for the rotation of crops.

So where would you site these? And where would you put paths? Round the edge or up the middle?

Oh and of course, any other things you can think of, to stop me making a right pigs ear of my first year!

If you managed to read as far as this without falling asleep, well done - and thanks!

[DD.]

First step - slow down. Rome wasn't built in a day!

This year, clear and plant something - anything, just something you like, worry about layout next year.

To be honest and to the point, your plot is not that large, so you really need to decide what you'd like to grow long term and then think about rotation.

Do you need to make beds? I've got knocking on 800 sq yards and every bit is cultivated, the only paths are the plot boundaires.

I'd hold back on the comfrey as well. 10 plants could eventually take over the whole plot!

[fatcat1955]

Test your soil for acidity, also check by digging a hole 2 spits deep and filling with water to check for drainage. Work out where you want your permanent beds and arrange the rest of your plot accordingly. If you do get permission for a shed work out where it will not cast shade on any beds. Do you have a water supply, if not you will need water butts to collect rain from any structures you have. bit late for your permant crops,so concentrate preparing the beds for later. This year i would grow easy crops, lettuce beet etc. Main thing to remember .....ENJOY.

[Windsong]

I'm a newbie like you BB. I found this garden planner helpful http://www.growveg.com/freetrial.aspx Just scroll to the bottom of the page. They don't ask for CC details for the free trial and there is a really helpful tool that tells you which plants do well together, what kind of sun/soil the plants need, and how far apart they have to be spaced.

[jonewer]

I agree - slow down, get digging, get some stuff in - any stuff, just to give you your reward.

Worry about layout later. I' also started my plot this year and its been a case of dig dig dig then plant whatever I an provided its the right time of year and theres enough space.

So far I have taters, broad beans, garlic, raspberry and redcurrant!

[Springlands]

Hullo Batterbits - I would suggest that you have a good look around this website - especially under the "growing help" link. There is some good advice there. If you are really new to growing you may find it useful to read some books. I like Joy Larcome's "How to grow vegetables" and the "Expert" books are also very good. Finally John Harrison (the founder of this website) has written some very good, easy to follow books and there is a link available to those at the top of this page.

 

[BatterBits]

Thanks all, for your advice.

I have indeed read a great deal on this site, and learned many things - and will continue to do so... however, most of the articles regarding "A new allotment" - both here and elsewhere tend to assume that the owner is new, rather than the plot, and therefore don't go into much detail about how to lay out the plot - assuming (I suppose) that it already is laid out in some way.

As I have a "patch of ground" - it's a <cliché alert> "Blank canvas" I was hoping to benefit from your experience - in terms of what should go where, and why - or more likely, what shouldn't go where - and why.

[Yorkie]

You have asked an awful lot of general questions in your post, which is why it is sometimes difficult to provide precise answers as demanded.  There are also no 'right' or 'wrong' answers.

There is the 'Planning your plot' series of articles on the main website, did you read those?

Everybody does their plots differently.  You will have people arguing the toss over raised beds, for example.  For some people they are a waste of space, for others they are pretty, for others they are essential.  Which is why fatcat's advice re. drainage is so important.  Frankly I don't bother with them and certainly wouldn't in your first year until you've got a feel for your plot and its layout.

Finding out the pH of your soil around the plot is also vital.  Blueberries won't grow in alkaline soil.  Brassicas will hate acidic soil.  You need to know this before doing any planning.

Are there shady areas?  These will impact on where you put your compost bins, some of the permanent planting areas.

Generally the best idea is to have beds (or at least rows) running N-S so that shade is distributed evenly.

Often, advice is to have beds no more than 10' x 4' if you plan not to walk on them.  But mine are 6 yards x 3 yards and I just walk on them when necessary.  I have paths between them and around the edge.  Others do it differently.

Rotation.  I have a 3 bed rotation.  You will find others recommending 4, 5, 6 etc.  Four is fine.  It partly depends on what you intend to grow.  There is no point in including a brassica bed in your rotation if you don't intend to grow them.

Make sure your comfrey is Bocking 14 variety or it will spread like wildfire.  You won't need 10 plants.  I'd have thought 1 yard x 5 yards would suffice maximum.  I only have one plant and it's OK.

Strawberries will need to be moved every 3 years or so, according to a fruit grower we had at our lotty AGM a few years ago.

[BatterBits]

Thanks Yorkie.

Yes, I guess I did ask a lot - but I hope I asked rather than demanded - certainly that wasn't my intention, and I apologise if that's the way it came across.

I haven't yet had a chance to get onto the plot - but I have a pH meter, and will certainly be ascertaining the soil type as a priority. I have some spuds chitting - and some more on the way - so putting these in will be a priority.

Not planning on raised beds at the moment - may have to rethink that as I advance in  years!

No shady area, at least  not until the beans grow! Is the Munty frame to ambitious for a novice - I like the idea of it.

N-S rows - thanks - that's just the sort of thing I'm looking for - general advice for stup^H^H^H novices.

Comfrey - again, thanks for the advice - I shall take it. I went for 10 plants as I figured they would  take a while to establish - and I couldn't find that sort of info - I am obviously looking in the wrong places!

Thanks for the tip with the strawbs - I shall try & remember it in 2014!

[shokkyy]

Generally the best idea is to have beds (or at least rows) running N-S so that shade is distributed evenly.

Yorkie - I'm struggling to understand this. If (for example) I did a row of runner beans running N-S, that would mean that in the mornings it would cast dense shade to the west of it and in the afternoon to the east of it. If I did that same row running E-W, it wouldn't really cast deep shade in the same way, so to me that seemed the logical way to do it. What am I getting wrong?

[Yorkie]

Sorry, didn't mean you were being demanding 

The way I think of rows is as follows:

If they are N-S then each side gets equal amounts of morning and afternoon sun, and the lunchtime sun can get down in between the rows.  If they are E-W then the 'front' of the row gets all the sunshine whereas the 'back' of the row gets none at any time of day. 

If you only have one row, and it isn't too thick, that isn't too much of a problem.  But if you have 2 rows, then there will be quite a lot of shade on any rows behind the front E-W row.

But don't get too hung up about this - it's a preference rather than a must.