When to Rotovate

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Growster...

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Re: When to Rotovate
« Reply #30 on: February 15, 2013, 06:42 »
Cooo

There's posh  :D

Ha ha ha - yes it does seem like that, but I really need to be able to get it back home as the plot shed is made of matchwood, and at this rate, I'll need a tractor to keep trundling kit back and forth!

I wouldn't even dream of rotovating yet, in fact, we're going to spread manure over the lot this w/e, ready for a rummage in about a month's time!

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Growster...

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Re: When to Rotovate
« Reply #31 on: February 15, 2013, 06:44 »
Good point, Gavin. We did all that last year, and got down way below that depth, but this year is the year off...

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NorthEast Old Newbie

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Re: When to Rotovate
« Reply #32 on: February 18, 2013, 08:25 »
Wow, Thank you all for your input. Reading through them all has been most enlightening.

I am realising that there is a big difference between the words Rotavate, Cultivate & Till. Plus a large difference between the types of machines.

Our main intent , hence one of the reason for the post, is to thorougly mix in the 3/4 rotted down topcoat of horse manure, that has lay untouched for the last 4month or so, to the 8inch depth these machines all appear to  work to, and leaving us and nice, well- mixed, fine tilth to work upon this spring. compostqueen has our idea. . We do expect the soil below the manure to be still soft from the 16inch deep diggings it received last year, so we may not require a large heavy machine to achieve this. We may succeed with a tiller. Digging the plot by hand - well, we did that last year in a slow, painful manner as we both suffer back problems, but as we "trenched" it was the only way. Now we feel we have "earned our colours" and can turn to mechanical methods, on this occasion, to get that really good mix of manure/soil. ionewer - We are afraid of 2 broken backs before a season has begun (joking) Bring in the earthmovers!!  Thank you Growster solid advice and thanks to mumofstig

CHRIS DONOHUE  I really appreciate your comments and wonder if the chips will feed as a mulch? My pal and I did months of reading on soil improvement, Internet, books, some scientific reports, listening to neighbours then discussing our best approach to help break up the clay and came out of all this with - We needed to help drain the lower level of water to help with the flooding at the low level of the plot, so trench it (hard heavy work) down to 16inches or more, and add lots of manure plus rotted wood chippings(will take years to break down fully), and sand (Expensive)as a mixture when refilling back to 12 inches level. From 12 inches to the top we added as much rotted matter/manure as we could lay our hands on, then cover the lot in 12inches of manure mulch for worms and nature to break down and go down into the soil. When spring arrives we need to thoroughly mix in the remaining manure leaving a fine top tilth in which to grow. We fear this will not be the last 16inch dig and adding of sand and wood etc as the reports advise it lierally takes tons to break clay, but we have made a start. As it was so hard to do i would want a couple of years off before the next dep dig takes place,  andin the meantime we will continue each winter covering with a muchlch of manure over compost to feed the soil after a years growing will have removed much of the nutrient that we put in the previous year.  Ha ha sorry if this is soooooo long, but I suppose it is a big subject and it will now be interesting on the comments it raises.

After digging over (Deep) our small plot 3 times last year the "soil" is quite soft, as we have kept off it by using boards to walk on when working. It was drying out quite nicely until the recent snowfall, now it is wet again, so will be left alone as many of you advise, until it dries out properly and fully. The Middle of March as proposed by Christine & Goldfinger & confirmed by Gremlin's records gives us an excellant guide, thank you.

Cadalot's comments on weeding before hand plus his new tool were good. Howver the mattress of manure has kept all weeds down. I expect that will change once the manure is mixed in however.  My pal and I both tried one of those "Claw" tools and could feel the stress on the spine through torsion immediatle, so please take care.

JayG  For turning our compost heap we use a long 3/4 steel rod with a large tang on the end. My son brings a powerful drill machine and generator to plot and the job is over in 5 mins. We poke it thro. the sides of the frame to get a deep mix.(to awkward to lean over the top of the frame with a fork and work.)

Many thanks to those advocating aMantis and saving to buy. Perhaps we are fortunate in guys around us being so helpful and telling us not to purchase but for a "couple of bob" there is a "community" one we can "borrow". I am interested though in the German model allot2learn mentions, so would appreciate a little detail if possible?

Gavinconways advise sounds like wise words, so it looks like an occasional 16inch dig will have to be carried to prevent a hard pan forming

Totty I can follow youre reasoning no problems. I think that is what we would have to do with 10ton. Unfortunately I can yet put words to the abbreviation BFB, so if you please help me as  it is keeping me awake at nights (Joke)

Thanks to so many for their input

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mumofstig

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Re: When to Rotovate
« Reply #33 on: February 18, 2013, 08:58 »
Quote
Gavinconways advise sounds like wise words, so it looks like an occasional 16inch dig will have to be carried to prevent a hard pan forming

I don't find deep digging necessary, If I get the fork tines down nice and deep and wiggle them about to loosen the lower levels then that's really all it needs to stop a pan forming  :)

I don't like digging much - can you tell  :D

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cadalot

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Re: When to Rotovate
« Reply #34 on: February 18, 2013, 20:02 »
NorthEast

One method of lowering the water sitting in the humas over clay is to try vertical sand drains. - I have a hand auger for taking geological samples and drilled 75mm holes in my lawn and then fill with sand. if there are any horizontal sand lenses in the clay they assist to take the water away depending on the topography of the site if nothing else is lowers the water down and stores it at a lower level in the clay for you. As a result my lawn is less boggy in winter and spring and stays greener during the summer than it did before I did it.

When I use my speedy weedy I replace the plugs with a mixture of sand compost and grass seed, which helps as well.

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Growster...

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Re: When to Rotovate
« Reply #35 on: February 18, 2013, 20:20 »
Quote
Gavinconways advise sounds like wise words, so it looks like an occasional 16inch dig will have to be carried to prevent a hard pan forming

I don't find deep digging necessary, If I get the fork tines down nice and deep and wiggle them about to loosen the lower levels then that's really all it needs to stop a pan forming  :)

I don't like digging much - can you tell  :D

Spot on, Mums!

It only really needs a poke around, none of this serious double-digging, which was invented by some bloke, (it had to be a bloke), to make sure that the soil structure remained in order! (yeah yeah, subsoil stays sub...)!

But that particular bloke never realised that raising levels with good compost etc, could obviate that!

We still have big diggers round here, but actually, I agree with your method, and anyway, how many veg get that far down anyway! (I wish our parsnips hadn't, they're nearly two ft long, and impossible to hoik out)!

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NorthEast Old Newbie

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Re: When to Rotovate
« Reply #36 on: February 19, 2013, 06:38 »
Aaahhhh cadalot I think you may have the answer there to avoid repeat deep deep diggings in the future by using an auger then filling with draining materials. This could yet be the simplest answer.

Sometime in the past a drain was laid outside everones gate to assist the run-off, but it doesnt work well. I did a small "raking about" expecting to see a full depth of 900mm pipe-bedding/gravel, all wrapped in a geo-textile.  Not what I came across.

I am the lowest draining spot of 3 allotments, hence it drains down to me, runs through the fence and away, plus excess is held by the clay.

I am now thinking a series of close together vertical sand drains along the edge of the plot could help stop some of the spread of water onto the plot , plus further sand drains spaced in the bottom 4mtr of the plot (worst affected area) could reduce the long term problem of water lying there.

I can easily lay my hands on a powered auger to do this with the aid of my son & colleague.  Many thnaks for kicking my brains into gear.

 


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cadalot

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Re: When to Rotovate
« Reply #37 on: February 19, 2013, 08:06 »
Glad to have helped - if the problem is that bad you could install plastic pipe onto the bore  - freecycle for plastic rainwater down pipe or if your augur is bigger use soil and vent pipe with lots of small holes drilled in to let the water in and max the void area - fill the outside with pea shingle.

If you really want to splash out wrap in geo-textile before back filling to help prevent the fines from blocking the holes and filling the inside of the plastic pipe. 
« Last Edit: February 19, 2013, 21:54 by cadalot »

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Totty

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Re: When to Rotovate
« Reply #38 on: February 19, 2013, 21:06 »
Hi, BFB is blood fish and bone. A fertiliser infinitely better for your ground that grow more etc etc.

Totty

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Yorkie

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Re: When to Rotovate
« Reply #39 on: February 20, 2013, 19:58 »
Hi, BFB is blood fish and bone. A fertiliser infinitely better for your ground that grow more etc etc.

Totty

Why do you say that, Totty?  :)

(Apart from the fact that the former is organic and the latter isn't).
I try to take one day at a time, but sometimes several days all attack me at once...

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mumofstig

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Re: When to Rotovate
« Reply #40 on: February 20, 2013, 22:43 »
Maybe that's a good enough reason  :lol: It is for me  ;)

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Growster...

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Re: When to Rotovate
« Reply #41 on: February 23, 2013, 22:54 »
As this year has started pretty slowly, we're just chucking a coat of Levingtons bagged manure (Yup, not cheap but accessible), on all the beds which will need it.

We really don't get to worried about the detail, as there are more serious things to discover, but as long as the various beds we operate produce a crop then what's the problem?

(We're growing twice the amount of spuds this year, simply because we bought some more as they're on offer - simple...)!

And we intend to 'slaughter' them and grow peas and beans afterwards...


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