[DECAL MAN]

Hello To All,
VERY informative forum I must say,
Can anyone advise me, how to clean up the contact points (if there are any) on a briggs engine fitted to a 1976 Merry Tiller Briggs, I cannot find the engine code, type etc ANYWHERE on it for reference and cannot see how to get the flywheel/mag off to have a look.
I have just acquired it after being stood for 8 years in an open barn.
Very green but not too rusty. The tiller & me that is!

Thanks,
Titch (Decal Man)

[agapanthus]

Muntjac say.............take the engine cowl off the top, you'll see a round fly-wheel type drum and a magneto with possibly 2 contacts very close to the drum. Take some wet and dry abrasive and remove any rust deposits on the drum and also the 2 contacts by placing the wet n dry between the drum and the 2 contact arms. Brush it down with some wd40 and dry it with a rag. Repace the cowling taking care to make the pull-cord pulley stick tight on the armiture. Re-bolt the cowling and attempt to start!!!!! Hope this helps.

[DECAL MAN]

Hi there and thanks,
I have attempted such as you say, maybe not cleaned off too well then.
I'll give it another go tomorrow, no points on this then? presumably that's what the mag does?
Thank You for writing back,

Decal Man Titch

[nnbreeder]

On a Briggs the points are under the flywheel. Take a big set of channel-lock pliers or a pipe wrench and carefully remove the nut on top that goes into the starter portion. Under that there will be a cupped washer, remove that also noting how it was installed as it needs to go back with the cup up like an upside down bowl. Almost there now, roll the flywheel around to the side opposite the magnets, put a short screwdriver under the magnet side and firmly but gently put up pressure on it. then take a ball peen hammer and firmly tap the side opposite the screwdriver and the flywheel should pop up. Remove that along with the Aluminum shear key and the points are under the cover. Remove two bolts and there you are. Inspect the flywheel key very well and if there is any damage replace it but use only a briggs key in it's place. It protects the crankshaft from damage. Personally I would replace the lot with a Magnatron Ign. unit and save time later on. They are fairly cheap and easy to install.

[Gwiz]

Engine type and code numbers are always stamped onto the engine cowling on a Briggs engine. You'll usually find them up near the spark plug.
Is the engine white, or black? If white, you'll probably have a set of points, The black engines tend to be ( as nn breeder says ) Magnetron, and so don't have any.
If the engine is black, and you don't have a spark, I would firstly replace the spark plug. If you still don't get a spark, locate the engine kill switch (near where the throttle cable joins the engine ) and make sure it isn't so dirty it's making a contact to earth. You can easily disconnect the wire from the ignition coil, and pull the engine over, with the spark plug resting on the top of the engine, to check for a spark.
 

[DECAL MAN]

Thanks everyone, great to see replies.
The Briggs engine, I think was origonally white, plus silver & red paint on the cowling now. I have wire brushed back ALL over the cowling and cannot find a number anywhere. I know that all (?) Briggs engines should have it stamped, but I have looked & looked in all lights.

The cylinder is vertical, flat topped with spark plug on the flat, pulley shaft out one side, pull start and cowling on the other. I take off the cowling, unseize the cord mechanism and the starter mechanism that rotates only in the direction of starting (ball bearings & cog inside??)
Its that bit I cannot work out how it comes off to gain access to the flywheel and then see how that comes off, presumably light even tapping and a puler if need.
Carburettor bolts straight to top of rectangular tank, how else can I describe it I despair?
Hope I'm making sense to you all.

Thanks, Decal Man

[Gwiz]

there is a special tool for removing the bit with the balls and cog. If you don't have it, I would suggest:
Remove the two or three 4ba sized screws that hold on the mesh screen.
Taking great care not to loose the bearings inside ( use a large tray under it , prise off the cover (cap) that should release the bearings ( about four if my memory is working .....*rare* )
you can now take out the centre part of the starter.
Please note, the thin spindle that is now exposed is part of the engine crankshaft. DO NOT DAMAGE IT IN ANYWAY. DON'T BE TEMPTED TO PUT GRIPS ON IT, AS IT WILL BE SCORED UP, AND THE STARTER WILL NEVER WORK AGAIN!!!!
You can put grips on the body of the starter(minding the little lugs that the 4ba screws went in), and undo it. sometimes you need to use a punch to get it started, but remember it's only aluminium! It unscrews anticlockwise.
There is a washer under the starter cup, remove this, and then you can tap the flywheel as Mr Breeder suggested earlier....

ENJOY!

[DECAL MAN]

Thank you Graham,
in between jobs on today, or this evening I shall take a good careful look at it and have a go. I have removed similiar before I'm sure of it, but my memory just isn't working at all.

I do have another 'cultivator' with a Villiers engine on, similiar problem but I'll ask on the forum about that too. It's a Munrotiller circa; 1957. Great bit of kit!
Thanks again, I'll let you know how I get on,
DECAL MAN

[nnbreeder]

And remember, it's always more fun to check spark by having a buddy hold the wire.

[DECAL MAN]

DONE, got it all off, blew out loads of muck, cleaned everything up, replaced all correctly.............

NO SPARK AT ALL, with three different plugs, I couldn't get anyone to hold the wire to see if ANY current is passing.  ****!!!

Condensor?? Any ideas where I can easily get one??
Thank you all,
DECAL MAN

[R Tallentire]

You have moved the throttle away from STOP haven't you? The points should be cleaned with emery and a cloth and re-gapped to 0.020 inches. Check that the points are closing as the pushrod sticks if an engine is laid up for a couple of years. Finger pressure downwards on it whilst turning the crank round usually frees it but I have had to remove a crankshaft and drift it out before now. If all is well reassemble, tightening the starter clutch finger tight, and with the plug laid on top of the head, spin the magnets past the coil and you should get a nice fat spark. New points come with a new condenser but it is almost as cheap to fit a "contactless kit". B & S agents will have both.

[DECAL MAN]

Thanks for that, The throttle position is an obvious oversight!! I will check tomorrow & take note of your comments.
Really, thanks to all for the advice,,,,
watch this space.
Decal Man

[nnbreeder]

Another thing to look for is insulation gone off of the wire going from the points to the throttle assembly. If it was shed kept mice could have made a nest up under the cowling or even just chewed the insulation off which could have made it ground out.

[DECAL MAN]

and that IS another thought, I do recall seeing an untidy 'piece of grass!!'

Looks like I do need a reputable supplier for parts, can anyone recommend an outlet?? I realise that a B & S agent is the required, but I'd like to use a Merry Tiller Specialist if possible??

Thanks again to all

DECAL MAN

[Spon]

Have you managed to sort this engine out yet?
I had problems with a B&S engine some time ago but managed to sort them all out with the help from this forum.
Not sure where on the Staffs / Shropshire border you are located but, if anywhere near Bilston (Nr Wolverhampton) there is a very well stocked garden machinery shop in the high street that will have the spares you need.