[Abbadon]

Hi all, this is my first post so please be gentle!

I will post in the other welcome area, just looking for some quick help while im visiting my mother...

Her merry tiller wont start, so have been following some of the useful threads on here, and have reached the point of pulling flywheel. I cant get it off, I believe I need to turn the cast rear section of the starter clutch anti-clockwise, and undo it, and remove, then I should be able to tap the flywheel off the shaft. is this correct?

ill try and upload a photo or 2 in 5 -10 minutes.

cheers in advance

Andy B

[Gwiz]

I would expect that you have done it by now.
There is a proper tool for removing the starter clutch It looks like this:



You need to lock up the flywheel and as you would expect, there is another service tool for that,


The photo shows two tools, the top one is the flywheel locking tool, the bottom one is another type of clutch starter removal "spanner" (be carefull, it is very easy to snap off cooling fins), and then undo the clutch anti clockwise. A tap on the side off the flywheel will then loosen the flywheel from it's tapered fit on the crankshaft.

There is a proper tool that goes over the end of the crankshaft so that you can hit that instead, but NEVER hit the carnkshaft without using this tool as you WILL damage it and then have problems getting the starter clutch to fit and work properly again.

[Abbadon]

Hi,

I did indeed get it off - I locked it all up using some wood and a useful mother to steady things, and tapped the clutch bit undone with a useful length of lead bar and a lump hammer...

flywheel came off fine, found that points were furry and also badly adjusted. de-greased and re-gapped and seem to now have decent sparks

Problem 2 is complete lack of fuel getting to cylinder now.....

Back down there in 2 weeks so will be attacking with carb cleaner and some new bits - can anyone recommend a place to order some bits that might need replacing in the carb? its been sitting still for at least 8 years...

cheers

Andy

[The Badger]

Try http://www.briggsbits.co.uk/

They have the exploded parts diagrams aswell, you will need the model-type-code from the engine but this is easily found, you can use http://www.briggsandstratton.com as they have a video of where to find these numbers.

Then just use the exploded diagrams to locate you part and master number and hey presto, give them the part number and wait a couple of days for the parts to arrive.

I will have a look again because I found a full carb rebuild kit the other day when I thought my carb would need rebuilding, but can no longer find the site, typical isn't it, info changing that quickly now on search engines!

i will post again if I can find it

[Abbadon]

Hello again,

Just about got everything sorted on this bad boy, apart from getting it to stop - it runs like a beauty, tuned her up as per some great guides on the web, but when i push the throttle to stop it wont die - i have to short it manually  between the throttle linkage and the engine proper. cant see whats not connected properly! anyone got any pictures that might help? see pic from me to identify, ill add another image shortly!

Andy

[flitwickone]

what a cracking piece of machine

[R Tallentire]

Hello Andy

There should be a wire running from the condenser behind the flywheel to the coil, and another from the condenser to a piece of brass strip insulated from the carb by a piece of plastic or Tufnol. When the throttle is pushed back the lever on the side of the carb should touch the brass strip and short it out. If the lever does not come far enough back, the throttle’s outer cable should be slackened off under the tank and  pulled down until the lever does contact the strip when the throttle is in the “Stop” position. If the wire is missing it is a lot easier to fit a device that shorts the plug out, either a genuine B & S one or one made from a piece of the steel banding that sometimes is used to tie heavy items together for transport.

[Abbadon]

attached is a picture of the area in question - i think one of the items circled is the brass strip with wire attached - the other is the bar on the throttle control at the end of cable. should there be something on the end of this bar that touches this strip when in this closed position - currently there is just a hole?

Andy

[R Tallentire]

Hello again

Just visible, surrounded on the photo by the loop at the end of the spring, is a small piece of the brass strip, most of it is hidden behind the Tufnol. This small piece contacts the top arm when the throttle is in the stop position. The lower arm (ringed) is normally the one that the cable is attached to on Majors, that is what the hole is for, and why I mentioned the outer cable bracket being under the tank. The set up you have was standard on Cadets. Adjust the outer cable so that the top arm touches the contact.

[Abbadon]

ok, here is another picture; there is no way the upper arm currently could reach the brass strip - however i would like to know if this  is all currently mounted back to front - it would make sense of the arm were other way round - as the screw on the arm on the left of the picture would contact the strip nicely i think if it were on the other side?

Andy

[R Tallentire]

I don’t think you understood my previous posting, the contact strip is on the far side of the Tufnol, the bit of brass you ringed just clamps the wire onto the contact strip, see my modified version of your first photo.

[Abbadon]

ahh got you - i did find it in the end with your help

can anyone possibly tell me exactly what model this might be - the id plate is illegible!

Andy