Weeds question

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Axe

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Weeds question
« on: April 21, 2016, 00:14 »
ive been digging my plot (new allotment), been ok so far getting to the lower end and bang...this..



every time i move along another fork width, the top fork depth of soil is just loaded with these white roots, i have dandelions, Doc leaves, neetles the lot in there, and a few others with loads of these white roots in the picture.

So... do i simply fiddle away separating the claggy mud (clay plot) from the weed root?, or is there a trick when its heavy, like remove the whole 'lump' and burn it? or worse still as the plot owner next door said weed killer on the whole lot  :ohmy: :ohmy:, i certainly don't fancy doing that!

Any suggestions as this is proving hard going on my old back, and patience! lol

Thanks
« Last Edit: April 21, 2016, 00:16 by Axe »

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Growster...

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Re: Weeds question
« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2016, 05:21 »
That looks like a lot of knotted couch grass, with something else on the top left.

The way we got over this on a seriously weedy plot, was to turn over a 10' row of spits, couch, weeds and all, then sit on an old box and clout each clod with a strong hand hoe until the soil dropped away, leaving just the roots, which we chucked away (not composted). First, the old back wasn't under any pressure, and second, you could clean the soil much more effectively.

I'm afraid it's very time-consuming, but well worth the effort in the long run.

Burning is an old way to clean weedy soil, and produces a material known as 'Dentcher', which I posted some time ago

http://chat.allotment-garden.org/index.php?topic=73954.msg841719#msg841719.

We got to some conclusion, although the Historic Kent site seems to have gone now!

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Casey76

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Re: Weeds question
« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2016, 08:47 »
If you have a fine-tined fork you can stick it into the clump and give is a good hard shake.  As long as the earth is dry enough most of the soil will fall away leaving you with a mat of fibrous roots trapped in the fork - this has worked well for me.

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AnneB

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Re: Weeds question
« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2016, 09:24 »
We have used Growster's method and it works.   We leave the clods of earth to dry out upturned first, if it doesn't rain (!) it makes it easier.

For areas of our plot that have not only couch grass, but horse tail, old glass, bits of nails and brick etc, we use Mr.B's patent soil sifter.   It is easier than a standard round sifter, much quicker and easier on the back.   You just plonk a load of your soil on top, and wearing heavy duty work gloves push it through the sieve, leaving the rubbish on top and nice soil below.

The mesh was bought from Wickes and attached to a frame made from old pallets.

« Last Edit: April 21, 2016, 09:26 by AnneB »

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Thrutchington

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Re: Weeds question
« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2016, 20:34 »
Sorted through mine with lots of hours, patience, and a hand cultivator tool to get the roots out and then returned the soil to the beds. It's slow but an effective way to do it.

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Salmo

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Re: Weeds question
« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2016, 21:18 »
The advice to weedkiller the lot is probably some of the best advice you will ever get.

Wait a while for the couch grass to get 6 inches of leaf. Apply Roundup, or any glyphosate containing weedkiller. Wait 2 weeks, by which time the weedkiller will have penetrated the roots. Cultivate the soil to break it down, without worrying too much about removing roots(they will be dead.

There may be some regrowth from dormant roots so a second spray may be needed. An alternative which should stimulate most roots into growth is to cultivate first, allow to grow, and then spray

This process will save a lot of time and energy.

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JoshP

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Re: Weeds question
« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2016, 21:33 »
I agree with Salmo, sorting through the soil and picking the roots out will take forever and you will never get them all!

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Gardener and Rabbit

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Re: Weeds question
« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2016, 22:24 »
Looking at all those roots, and the heavy soil, I'd use weedkiller too.  Use it on a fine day so it has time to work.  I've started using a fast-acting roundup to help maintain an elderly relative's large garden and orchard; it's on heavy soil and has weeds like nettles, ground elder, willowherb, dandelions, and bindweed coming in from a nearby field. It's made a big difference, there just wouldn't be time otherwise and with hand weeding only it was getting out of hand.  The other benefit is that there are no longer sacks and sacks of weeds to dispose of.

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Axe

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Re: Weeds question
« Reply #8 on: April 23, 2016, 22:47 »
Unfortunately, i'm one of the organic brigade, so the thought of putting a chemical on my plot feels like defeat.

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al78

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Re: Weeds question
« Reply #9 on: April 24, 2016, 00:34 »
Unfortunately, i'm one of the organic brigade, so the thought of putting a chemical on my plot feels like defeat.

I'm the same, and personally would rather avoid putting chemicals on land that I intend to use to grow food (particularly as there is some evidence that glyphosate is not as inert as is commonly claimed, and can find its way into the food chain). I have the same problem on my plot, heavy wet clay, nettles, bindweed, dandelions, creeping buttercup, bindweed and couch grass. Digging the soil results in it coming up in massive clods which are often full of various sized roots. So far I have been digging clod by clod then raising the fork above my head and slamming it down on the clod as hard as possible (taking the risk of snapping the fork in half). This after a few attempts will shatter the clod, then I try and crush the smaller pieces and remove as much root as is practical. I am never going to be able to remove all root so the weeds will regrow but over time the perennial weeds will hopefully become less and less dominant.

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Axe

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Re: Weeds question
« Reply #10 on: April 24, 2016, 13:51 »
Unfortunately, i'm one of the organic brigade, so the thought of putting a chemical on my plot feels like defeat.

I'm the same, and personally would rather avoid putting chemicals on land that I intend to use to grow food (particularly as there is some evidence that glyphosate is not as inert as is commonly claimed, and can find its way into the food chain). I have the same problem on my plot, heavy wet clay, nettles, bindweed, dandelions, creeping buttercup, bindweed and couch grass. Digging the soil results in it coming up in massive clods which are often full of various sized roots. So far I have been digging clod by clod then raising the fork above my head and slamming it down on the clod as hard as possible (taking the risk of snapping the fork in half). This after a few attempts will shatter the clod, then I try and crush the smaller pieces and remove as much root as is practical. I am never going to be able to remove all root so the weeds will regrow but over time the perennial weeds will hopefully become less and less dominant.

yes the quick fix is weed killer, but hopefully after years of hand weeding, we might get some weed free organic soil lol

thankfully mine arnt as clogged up that I have to beat it like that, but it is quite hard and could do with a good mulch and well rotten manure!


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