[fatbelly]

Two questions one about Leeks and one about Swedes.

I was given some Leeks today, they are about the size of small spring onions. So I have planted them in, I have just read on tinternet that I should have cut the roots back to about inch long and taken some of the green off the top. I didn't do this how much does this matter?

Secondly, I have not cleared  all my plot yet and I want to plant some swedes but don't have the space yet. Can I sow swede seeds now in pots and then transplant them in three or four weeks time when the space has been cleared of all the weeds, couch grass etc etc.

Thanks
Fatbelly

[spinny]

Hi FB

You were right not to cut back your leeks - they already suffer root disturbance when you transplant them, cutting them back just does even more damage.  As for the tops, the leaves are manaufacturing food for the plant.  Cutting them back would only restrict this function.

Yes, you can start swedes off in trays/pots now.  I know some people on this forum don't agree with me, but I regularly transplant swede seedlings and always have a good crop.  I often plant them out after early potatoes, having limed the ground first.

spinny

[DD.]

Hi FB

You were right not to cut back your leeks - they already suffer root disturbance when you transplant them, cutting them back just does even more damage.  As for the tops, the leaves are manaufacturing food for the plant.  Cutting them back would only restrict this function.


spinny

Sorry - have to disagree here. Leeks are very study plants and can stand this type of disturbance. The jury may be out re the leaves, (what you do cut off very soon grows back), but cutting off the roots means a) the plant drops further down the dibbed hole, leading to a longer blanched stem. b) the roots spread themselves out evenly, not having been dropped in a tangled mess.

[shaun]

agree with digger hear give them a hair cut top and bottom never failed yet

[spinny]

Sorry - have to disagree here. Leeks are very study plants and can stand this type of disturbance. The jury may be out re the leaves, (what you do cut off very soon grows back), but cutting off the roots means a) the plant drops further down the dibbed hole, leading to a longer blanched stem. b) the roots spread themselves out evenly, not having been dropped in a tangled mess.

Feel I have to reply to this for a number of reasons:
Firstly, even if leek plants are 'very sturdy plants that can stand this type of disturbance' there's absolutely no point in deliberately mutilating them and making their lives life even more difficult.
Secondly, plant roots grow from the tip and have root hairs just behind them that are instrumental in obtaining nutrients from the soil.  Cutting all of these off sets the plants ability to take up nutrients back a considerable amount.  Your 'longer blanched stem' comment is irrelevant - you're talking about millimetres, if even that much, here.  Teasing out the roots before re-planting (which should always be done) ensures that they're not in a 'tangled mess'.
Thirdly, the cut off parts of leek leaves do not grow back, the plant compensates by producing new leaves, Yes, it will produce new leaves anyway, which is what we want them to do, but we're back to my original argument - There's absolutely no point in deliberately mutilating them.

spinny

[Annie]

I`ve tried both methods with leeks and I cannt say I noticed the difference so now I just plant them without cutting any bits off because it`s quicker.
I cannt really answer your swede question as my module sewn plants haven`t gone in yet,space issue again!

[Trillium]

I agree with Annie. I don't trim my leek roots at all, however, I do dig a deep enough hole in which to dangle the long roots before carefully filling. There's no tangle to deal with now and they can get on with growing. And be sure to have enough soil to mound up the leeks as they grow or there won't be much tender white flesh.

[kentishlad]

Hi, I have just been planting out some of my leeks and came here for some advice about it which this thread is sort of answering,
I have the book 'Vegetable Expert' which says to trim the roots and the tips before planting but does not elaborate on how much or why etc.
I planted mine in the beginning of Feb. in seed trays, then pricked them out to 2" spacings in fresh trays which is where they have been since.
I've been waiting for space to plant them, the idea was to clear my first early spuds then this weekend I harvested my garlic so have utilised this space as a starter. Anyway the roots were very long, and because they are grown in trays they tend to go splay outwards from the bulb base, I reckon the roots where as long as 10" so I trimmed them to about 2" and the leaves I sort of cut the tips off leaving a leek about 6 -7 " long plus the root.

because the roots tend to splay out I found it difficult to get the roots below the bulb, I dibbed the holes to 6" using a cut down old handle so the holes are about 1 - 1.5" in diameter and tried rotating the plants but invariably some is up the side of the bulb. I've watered them in and left them, do you think this will be ok?

I guess the root cutting does make a difference if you have so much root that you end up with only 3" of stalk in the hole?
as it is now most of my plant is in the hole with about an inch showing does this sound right?

Finally, for next year, are seed trays the way to go or are there better ways?

Thanks!

Wayne.

[DD.]

I will stick to what I have found works in practice. I always have & possibly alway will chop my leeks down. kentishlad has found the problem with having a lot of root.

He also asks about leeks in seed trays. At the risk of repeating myself - yet again, here's what I wrote in an earlier thread...

Now this might seem a bit painstaking, but I find it well worth the effort......

As I said I use cat litter trays, as they are nice & deep,be sure to make holes in the bottom though - a hot skewer will do the job. I use compost from grow bags, as it seems one of the cheaper ways to buy it.

Now here's the painstaking bit, I plant the seed individually 1" apart 1/2 deep. That way they don't crowd each other out. I get nearly 100% germination in the green house. One of these trays will produce 96 plants. Compost has to be kept moist. When a reasonable size they can be moved outside to grow on. I then transplant when they are the thickness of a pencil.

It's something I read somewhere, I didn't make it up my self, but when they go in they are real sturdy plants.

[kentishlad]

Hi Digger Dave,
Thanks for your great tip, sorry I missed your previous post.
You find the one inch spacing ok right upto time of transplanting then which is great, saving another stage ie pricking out, I'll look out for something like cat trays or similar and give it a go myself next year.

Cheers,

Wayne.

[DD.]

Hi Digger Dave,
Thanks for your great tip, sorry I missed your previous post.
You find the one inch spacing ok right upto time of transplanting then which is great, saving another stage ie pricking out, I'll look out for something like cat trays or similar and give it a go myself next year.

Cheers,

Wayne.

No probs Wayne - there's a lot of posts on here to catch up on! Using this method, the only time they get transplanted is when they hit the allotment. Cheap cat litter trays from Wilco's. You'd probably be ok with normal seed trays, but you can get more in these!

These are the leeks at an early stage - forgot to take one later on!