[ravenzero1]

on the back of seed packets it says to plant in seed trays first and when big transplant to final posistion. my question is can you just sow the seed straight into your allotment bed. even maybe cover with a poly tunnel. is this possible. does any body else do this.

many thanks steve

[mumofstig]

what particular veg are we talking about?.. as you can do that with some, but not with others.

[ravenzero1]

veg such as cabbage, brocali,letlice

[Livinhope]

Any of the brassicas, straight into a seed bed, it's less labour intensive.  Lettuce, unles it's the salad leaves I do plant in seed trays then transplant to the growing position.

[ravenzero1]

would you need to use a poly tunnel or just leave as they are. i spose all you have to do then is thin them out is this right?

thanks steve

[mumofstig]

veg such as cabbage, brocali,letlice

If you sow these into soil, it is usual to sow into a small seed bed, just so that you can keep them weed free while they are tiny. Then when they are 4-6 leaves you transplant them to their final positions. Somehow, this transplanting makes them grow stronger as well.

Sowing in trays or seed bed, often allows you to grow a quick crop which is harvested and out, before they have to go into their final positions.

[Livinhope]

We tend to cover everything with either enviromesh or corrugated pvc sheeting to give it a start but you have to remember to water under the pvc.  I certainly wouldn't leave seedlings unprotected because of the pigeons and even sparrows with small plants.  I agree with mum that for some reason transplanting, after a few days of rest, seems to give them a kick start.

[DD.]

Any of the brassicas, straight into a seed bed, it's less labour intensive.  Lettuce, unles it's the salad leaves I do plant in seed trays then transplant to the growing position.

More wasteful though.

I sow brassicas in seed cells, (20 to a half seed tray size), one seed to a cell and I know I'll get just about 100% germination, then pot on when big enough. Makes one packet last ages, also has advantages if you have club root

Lettuce - small pinch to a pot - then to seed trays - likewise a packet will last ages.

[Christine]

I'm with DD on this one.

[Salmo]

If you sow where they will grow cabbages and other brassicas tend to fall over. OK so the stems just grow a bend in them but then the heads are near the ground and vunerable to slugs. If you transplant them and put them in deep, up tp the first leaf, they usually stay upright.

My father used to grow all his brassicas in a nurery bed. When it came to transplanting he just yanked them out pretty roughly. He reckoned that if you broke the tap root the plants produced a better root system. I remember some of his transplants had very little root attached and thrived. Some of the plants put out from modules do seem to take a long time for their roots to leave the compost ball and penetrate the surrounding soil. Is there a lesson to be learned here?

[Livinhope]

Salmo, agree with you 100% I had fantastic results planting brussels, sprouting, caulis, winter cabbage, curly kale etc., in a nursery bed, so many I gave quite a lot away.  Planted up to the first leaves, nothing has fallen over and they are all looking good.

[DD.]

I can only say from experience that I've had better plants and produce doing it the module > 3" pots > plot way, in my case probably because the seedlings don't get club root as soon as they emerge.

PLUS - growing initally in compost I can safely pass on excess plants. I could not do this with nursery bed raised ones, the recipients would get club root as a bonus.

[ravenzero1]

Planting in modules seem to br the better for mr a recon. ther seems to be alot of swoping up my allotment so modules should be a good idea. the only thing what size modules would be best?

steve

[DD.]

As I previously posted:

I sow brassicas in seed cells, (20 to a half seed tray size)