Building my own incubator?

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n.b83

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Building my own incubator?
« on: October 18, 2008, 22:32 »
I am interested in hatching my own eggs when I get started with my allotment so I am going to need an incubator.
I was woundering if anyone had built there own incubator before?
How sucessful was it?
And do they have any plans there willing to share?

If not what would I have to take into consideration when desiging one?
eg:
Temps?
Humidity?
Turning?

Any help or advice would be very welcome.

Thanks
Neil
Neil Begbie
has just taken tenancy of 506 sq meter allotment

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poultrygeist

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Building my own incubator?
« Reply #1 on: October 18, 2008, 22:39 »
Hi neil. Don't think we've met before. Welcome in. :D

There have been a couple of attempts at self-build but I'm not sure how successful they were. There's so many variables, including those you mention, that it's hard to assess if it works unless you get a good hatch rate.

Is there a reason you want to hatch rather than buy in ?

Are they for laying or growing for the table ?

Rob 8)

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n.b83

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Building my own incubator?
« Reply #2 on: October 18, 2008, 22:46 »
Hi Rob,

I am new to the site and dont even have an allotment yet so I am thinking a bit in front. But I would like to try raising some eggs to birds (just to try it really).

I would like to keep both layers and meat birds.

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Vember

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Building my own incubator?
« Reply #3 on: October 18, 2008, 22:50 »
Hi Neil

Incubators ahhh, now you've opened a can of worms  :lol:
Some people love them & some people hate them  :lol:

I'm pressuming we're talking Chicken eggs ?
I'm sorry that I can not help in the actual making of an Incubator, I took the easy option and bought one  :oops:  :D
Chicken eggs take 21 days "ish" to hatch
They need for the first 18 days to be at a temp of 37.5oC (100oF) with a humidity of around 55%-60% in a still air incubator.
Turning should be done at least 3 times a day ( some people say more, rule of thumb is always an uneven number) up untill day 18,

After day 18 stop turning reduce the temp to 37oC (99oF) and Increase humidity to 75 %

Welcome to the Forums by the way :D
Sarah :)

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poultrygeist

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Building my own incubator?
« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2008, 22:53 »
It's something I've never done, partly because you never know what you'll end up with. There's a greater ratio of cocks to hens normally  :?

But then, if you go for a dual-purpose breed maybe that wouldn't be such a problem. :)

Rob 8)

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Vember

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Building my own incubator?
« Reply #5 on: October 18, 2008, 22:57 »
Just one more note to add if this is your first time, it might be best to wait till next spring to raise your chicks.
Please don't think I am trying to put you off, there is nothing in my opinion as rewarding as hatching your own :)

Chicks do need alot of looking afterthough, after they've hatched in fact that's where the hard works really starts.
They need to be kept under heat, out of drafts and dry untill they are at least 6 weeks of age :D

Sarah :)

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n.b83

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Building my own incubator?
« Reply #6 on: October 18, 2008, 23:01 »
Hi Sarah,
Sounds like turn could do with been automatic then?
Humidity could be controlled with a res in the bottom and the heat from the lamp.

What breed are dual purpose birds?

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babe

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Building my own incubator?
« Reply #7 on: October 18, 2008, 23:03 »
and only use an incubator if you can resist the temptation of keep looking.

me? i cant keep out.

ascott have been selling the covatutu 16 on ebay for £39.99 instead of the usual £69.99.

i bought one and i hate incubators. but cant walk away from a bargain

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Vember

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Building my own incubator?
« Reply #8 on: October 18, 2008, 23:18 »
Quote from: "n.b83"
Hi Sarah,
Sounds like turn could do with been automatic then?
Humidity could be controlled with a res in the bottom and the heat from the lamp.

What breed are dual purpose birds?


Automatics turning is good but I have found even mine needed extra  :shock:. It goes side to side and I found the additional top to tailing helped (180 degrees ) , if they aren't turned enough they can get stuck to the side of the shell & die - this is heartbreaking at day 14 when you've seen the chick move in the egg  :cry:

You will need to keep a very close eye on your humidity, one of the most common problems I've seen is humidity too low at hatch time and the shell is too hard for the chick to get out off. Even the best incubators have needed an extra res of water to get the humidity right :)

As for a good dual purpose bird, I don't think you can go far wrong with a  sussex,  approx 200 eggs per year pinky brown colour eggs, friendly breed. It wont be ready to eat in a few weeks like a hybrid table bird but a good all rounder.

Bodger & Grannie are the best people to discuss the eaters with though they know alot more than me :D

Sarah :)

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GrannieAnnie

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Building my own incubator?
« Reply #9 on: October 19, 2008, 01:18 »
I'd love to try incubating my own eggs, but if anything went wrong I'd feel really bad, that's why we buy ours in from day old.  We still lose one or 2 weaklings, but not too many!  We get hybrids to raise to point of lay and sell for egg laying, and we buy meat chicks from Poulet in Lincolnshire to raise for the freezer, and we have a few people that buy them from us oven ready.

The layers are either Goldlines, Amberlinks or Babcock B380's, and the meat chicks are 3 varieties of hubbards that get to eatable weight between 8 and 14+ weeks depending on the breed.

Rhode Island Reds and Welsummers are I believe good dual purpose birds too!!

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n.b83

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Building my own incubator?
« Reply #10 on: October 19, 2008, 11:47 »
Thanks for all your advice. Raising chickens is something I wont be rushing into, just getting started on my research.
I will probably buy some in first but I would really like to try hatching my own.

I think I will buy a small incubator first but I think I could build one in time.

Could anyone tell me what are the size regulations for chicken coups?

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poultrygeist

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Building my own incubator?
« Reply #11 on: October 19, 2008, 12:16 »
The minimum quoted is one square foot per bird. This is a general guide and you should aim for bigger. Especially for future expansion  :wink:

The perches need to allow 9-12" per bird for roosting and ideally are about 2-3" square timber with the top edge rounded slightly. These should be higher than the nest boxes since chickens will seek out a high spot to roost.

If you can find a shed about 4'x6' it gives room for expansion and makes it easier to clean out, as well as plenty of fresh air, allowing ventilation at roof height. It needs to be draught free where the birds are.

The run has to allow at least 1 sq metre per bird but better to give double or much more. Free range is best if you can keep them safe from predators.

Rob 8)

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woodburner

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Building my own incubator?
« Reply #12 on: October 19, 2008, 14:21 »
IIRC, the lowest industry standard is about the area of an A4 piece of paper per bird. Anything less than that is considered cruel, even by the authorities.
Giving more space is highly desirable but you need to register with DEFRA/egg marketing board? to (legally) sell your eggs classed as anything official, e.g. free range. So unless you are going commercial it's not really worth the bother of complying with class regualtions, just give your birds as much space as you can/feel is reasonable/want to give them, and sell any surplus eggs directly.

Re incubators, don't get the smallest (3 egg), it's too easy to end up with a lonely chick. Remember too that a few chicks need as much electricity as would do for a much larger number while brooding. (Brooding is easy, a 100W bulb and large cardboard box will do.)

If you want to make an incubator you will need at least a thermometer and humidity meter, they don't cost much, but if you want to control temperature automatically, you will need a thermostat, around £30, and a humidity controller is around £60, and you will need a fan to go with that.
You will also need a heat source and a suitable container with ventilation.
Most of the smaller/cheaper incubators do not 'manage' the humidity level. You will need to turn the eggs at least daily, but with smallish numbers this is not difficult to do manually (or semi manually if you are handy enough, you can make a suitable cradle with dowelling).

Unless you are intending to hatch large numbers (remember this will involve killing, or giving away to be killed, excess cockerels) I suggest you get at least one hen of a breed that is known for broodiness, and a cockerel (or have ready a source of fertile eggs). You will learn a lot about raising chicks from a mother hen :)
I demand the right to buy seed of varieties that are not "distinct, uniform and stable".

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Bodger

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Building my own incubator?
« Reply #13 on: October 19, 2008, 14:28 »
Borrow a broody hen in the summer from somone. You can give her back when she's finished rearing the chicks.
The real work starts with an incubator after the chicks have hatched. This is because you have to keep them warm for at least a couple of months and you also have to adjust the heat as they develop. A broody hen will take the work and worry away from you.

Its only 'sod' law that says that more cocks are hatched than hens. In reality, its got to be a 50/50 split. Its all a matter of how lucky you are. :D

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n.b83

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Building my own incubator?
« Reply #14 on: October 19, 2008, 16:57 »
Whats a Broody Hen?


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