What to do about to many established weeds?

We've never been great for weeding regularly but since our life took a very busy turn 2 years ago the weeds have just been taking over like crazy, I feel like a contestant in Survivor in there! Also since the weather was so bad, the slugs have joined the party and we're feeling mightily frustrated!
My believe in organic gardening (never ever use such evil things as weedkillers!) is being challenged and I am very tempted to - after our current crop is harvested - slap on the poison! Would that be really so bad? Are you using it? Please help! ;-)

Thanks so much for taking the time to reply ;-)
We have lots of grass growing around the polytunnels that creeps underneath. Also before we moved in (the tunnels were already in place), they were neglected for years and completely overgrown. We did a lot of work but were not scrupulous enough, being gardening beginners and all... ;-) Now, 4 years later we've learned a lot but are still frustrated by some aspects. I will definitely try the newspaper and grass clipping mulch and am also leaning towards using a weedkiller around the edges just once - I would just like to find one that is not to harsh on the surrounding plants. You mentioned Glyphosate - I will look into that. Thank you!

I more or less do the same as angelavdavis - a combination of techniques depending on the weeds and the crops in a particular bed.

It's been my experience that although weed suppressant materials such as black plastic, fabric or cardboard will clear a bed in a season, the moment you lift it up (or it rots down), weed seeds that would normally be dormant while there is top growth are suddenly exposed to light - a cleared bed actually encourages more weed seeds to germinate all at once and if they are not hoed off early can turn into an even weedier bed than before!  The same goes for a bed than is newly dug over over ready for sowing - I deliberately delay sowing seeds until that first crop of weed seeds germinate and is dealt with.  Providing you don't disturb the soil too much after (and bringing up new weed seeds to the surface), keeping on top of any weeds after gets easier in the season but I have learned that removing them early means less to tackle later in the season.

The squash beds have benefitted from being covered in weed suppressant material - planted through the material, you not only get a crop while the weeds are suppressed, but the black material can also help to warm the soil which the squash plants will respond to.

Beds that I know have certain weeds such as chickweed and speedwell will however, get the glyphosate treatment.  I have tried to dig them out but their fine roots are so difficult to lift carefully and they flower and shed seeds in the blink of an eye.  Couch grass responds very well to glyphosate and although it may take a year or 2 treating the area infested with the grass (the plants may die but there are still seeds that germinate later), I have to say that getting rid of couch grass this way has never been easier.

Now bindweed - I used to dig the root out but never ever achieved total clearance.  So these days I dig over a bed and get as much root out as possible and then let any top growth appear before spraying with weedkiller.  It is proving to be very effective and the amount of bindweed on the plot has diminished quite a lot since taking it on.

My number one worst weed of all is marestail - it is insidious and proving to be my nemesis. Using weed suppressant cover alone will not kill it off - it simply goes dormant.  I had 2 beds covered for over 3 years and to my dismay it came back albeit in less numbers.    I am finding the combination of digging out the root and concentrated weedkiller is working but a slow process and have concluded that it cannot be got rid off but endured.

The usual statement from John in response to homemade stuff

Members sometimes discuss making their own pesticides or uses for commercial products beyond those they are licensed for. Whilst not wishing to stifle free speech, this site does not suggest or condone the illegal use of pesticides and would suggest members consider

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