[ilan]

Just working out what the best size plot would be to supply a family of four with the basic veg needs excluding a poly tunnel  but with space for soft fruits (no trees) the pots seem to require the most space  so it looks like the will often be grown on the same land twice ? any suggestions I hope to make the beds about 4-5ft wide ?

[mumofstig]

During the war a 10 rod plot (30 ft x 90ft) was the size said to feed a family of 4 - but that had no paths around beds etc as all the soil was used. You walked along the rows between the crops to cultivate

It's always better to move crops around rather than following with the same thing

[Paul Plots]

My main plot is 30'x90' but divided into three by two grass paths. As mumofstig says: it allows me to move things around each year and gives the most flexible growing space as nothing's set in stone beds.

[angelavdavis]

I have a 5 rod plot which is split into 6 raised beds, with fruit bushes going around the outside of the plot and two small cut flower beds at the front.  Personally, I find it difficult to grow enough to be self-sufficient.  With many crops, the beds are occupied for 8-10 months before they actually produce!  So you need a selection of areas in which to grow a mixture of crops with varying maturity times.  

I have recently taken on my second plot which is only 2.5 rods.  I have already filled most of this plot with crops.  Although grateful for the additional space, I would have preferred to have been given another 5 rod plot as there are still crops I would like to grow that I simply don't have enough room for, so I think the powers that be who decided 10 rods was enough during the war were probably correct.

However, the other aspect is whether crops are worth growing and whether you like them.  My family aren't keen on broad beans or globe artichokes, so it is pointless me growing loads of them (I like them, just everyone else that doesn't!).  

In addition, if you can buy produce cheaply when it is in season and there is no improvement in taste when you grow it yourself, you may feel it is not worth growing.  Some people don't grow onions or carrots for example.  

You also need to see if all the ground on your plot is suitable for all crops - some plots flood in winter or have areas of shade in summer time.  My soil is heavy clay so raised beds seems a more manageable way to grow as it stops the beds getting too water logged and crops rotting off, this means I can't really just have traditional style allotment rows.

So, lots to think about when considering a plot.

[mumofstig]

This WWII plan may be of interest - no room for globe artichokes or paths here   
It goes to show how things have changed 

http://www.earthlypursuits.com/AllotGuide/DigforVictory1/DigForVictory1_2-3.htm

[DD.]

no room for globe artichokes or paths here 

That's my line! 

[Kleftiwallah]

Like sleep and a "Gentleman's dimensions",  you can always make use of a bit more 

Cheers,    Tony.

[Paul Plots]

This WWII plan may be of interest - no room for globe artichokes or paths here   
It goes to show how things have changed 

http://www.earthlypursuits.com/AllotGuide/DigforVictory1/DigForVictory1_2-3.htm

Shows how old fashioned I am - that's not far off the plot plan that I follow although I have fruit to work around hence the 4th section on a half-plot.

[gavinjconway]

Hi Ilan - it depends on the size of the plots being given out. It seems that in general their seems to be a tendency for councils and associations to divide newly abandoned plots into smaller plots for newbies to get to grips with their smaller plot and not too have to cope with a whole full plot full of weeds etc to battle with.. So I doubt you would get anything bigger than a full sized (10 rod) plot to be able to be self sufficient in veg as well as have your fruit trees.. These would probably take up another full plot to have a decent variation of fruit..

I doubt any site would give you 2 plots for this.. You say you are looking into sizes - is this as an enquiry for yourself to take on a plot or are requiring this info for a project etc..

[ilan]

hi thanks for that info not sure on all these rods and perches tho . my plot permisions officer has said I have taken on to much  and that I need to cut down the area I grow in as its difficult to keep up with all the weeding , watering etc  so some is going back to grass and some to raised beds to try and stop the creeping buttercup invading everything I thought about 100 sq mtrs would be enough  with 6 raised beds of 1.2 x 2mtrs for salads etc with the rest into 4 normal beds with a row of soft fruits bushes on the outer edge . not sure about paths as this is the cause of some of the problems with both keel slugs and grass growing into the area  Fortunatly I also have a small greenhouse and polytunnel outside this area .

[Yorkie]

A full sized plot (10 rods or poles) is traditionally 300 sq yards, so a half plot is 150 sq yards etc.

[Madame Cholet]

A full sized plot (10 rods or poles) is traditionally 300 sq yards, so a half plot is 150 sq yards etc.

Paths may appear to use more space but you can plant closer together in the beds, I fill my beds with plants with no need for spaces, which you need to walk down a row. ie carrots are broad cast thinly and raked in. My carrot bed is now full and the weeds have been blocked out. I can also weed from the paths when the soil is not workable between rows. I bet anyone that 4' beds with 2' paths are equally if not more productive than rows over a 10 pole plot.

And no compaction or digging too hurrah.

[ilan]

do you have bare earth paths or are they grass which needs cutting/ strimming do you edge the beds with wood ? 

[Growster...]

A full sized plot (10 rods or poles) is traditionally 300 sq yards, so a half plot is 150 sq yards etc.

Paths may appear to use more space but you can plant closer together in the beds, I fill my beds with plants with no need for spaces, which you need to walk down a row. ie carrots are broad cast thinly and raked in. My carrot bed is now full and the weeds have been blocked out. I can also weed from the paths when the soil is not workable between rows. I bet anyone that 4' beds with 2' paths are equally if not more productive than rows over a 10 pole plot.

And no compaction or digging too hurrah.

We're on exactly that system, Ma'am, and it works very well for us, but there is only Mrs G and me nowadays, so we really don't need to eat three hundred weight of swede at each sitting...

And yes, Ilan, I strim most days I'm down there (battery machine does 20 mins per charge), and that has kept the grass and edges  trim all year. Actually, when the edges get really bad, I clip them with edging shears, but not that often.

I'm probably luckier than most, in that I can get down there more often than others, and that's a bonus, but we both try and do three serious jobs each time we visit, and today, there was a bit of new harvesting, which really cheered us up!

We're on a plot and a half BtW, and like the Monty Python character,Mr  Jackson, we have two sheds too...;0)

[fatcat1955]

If you have creeping buttercup, that normally mean's that your plot need's liming. Do a soil test to confirm. Do not lime where you intend to plant your spud's.