[needssomehelp]

i have a large area of weeds and grasses to clear, last year you lovely people on here told me about glyphosphate, but it was too late in the year to use it.  spring is round the corner so when can i start using it, and what is the best way of applying. also do i need to cover the area after or just leave it to do it "thing" lol

[DD.]

It's a bit early yet, you'll need to wait until the weeds are "actively growing". That's probably going to be another month at least. There is no need to cover  after application, just make sure no rain in imminent, as per the usage instructions.

I quite like "Resolva 24". This contains two weedkillers, the result of which is that the top growth shows signs within 24 hours, (less than that when I used it on nettles), whilst the glyphosphate in it gets to work on the roots.

[Dominic]

I've used Glyphosphate in laste summr before with moderate results.
My trees and shurbs are all bursting into life at the moment, so its a bit of a judgement call really.
Depends where you are I suppose.

[DD.]

Bushes are, plants are not.

That's what you need to be looking at.

[compostqueen]

I don't like weedkillers where my veg will be growing.

Any chemical has an effect on the body and the environment so use them wisely and not just as a matter of routine.   The weeds always grow back so then you start getting onto the treadmill of re-spraying and then hitting it again as you missed a few, and so it goes on.   I prefer the long term solution of perforated black sheet mulch which is a chemical free route to clearing the plot.  Regular hand weeding and hoeing thereafter

People do as they like but there is another way that doesn't involve chemicals.  I just wanted to point that out 

[DD.]

I think we are aware of the pros and cons of weedkiller.

The question was specifically how to use it, not whether or not.

[Dominic]

Using it once to start with is not going to have any effect on your veggies.
Its just not.

If you use it constantly, there is some evidence that it hangs around and some conjecture that it could be dangerous.
I dont use it constantly, but I do use it on occaision.

[compostqueen]

Using it once probably won't be enough though, which is what I was on about

DD     Thank you for pointing that out to me. 

[Snoop]

As someone who used it for the first time late last year, I have to say it is pretty impressive stuff. I have a major problem with bindweed. I have been digging the beds up this year and have found very, very few bits of root that have survived. I hoped not to use chemicals on the land, but had to admit defeat. If you use it according to instructions and DD's advice, it's not the kind of stuff you would need to use frequently.

[noshed]

I use it sparingly maybe once a year. On a field of weeds I use a cheap watering can which I keep for that purpose. Then just pick a calm day and water it on (I buy the generic stuff you have to dilute). Make sure you don't get it over your boots and then stroll over the nearest bowling green...
For growing bindweed up a fence etc, I spray it on. But again it has to be on a calm day and I always wear gloves.
It is very effective but you also have to hoe and weed as the season goes on.

[Kristen]

I prefer the long term solution of perforated black sheet mulch which is a chemical free route to clearing the plot. 

Not wishing to get into an argument about it, but I am interested in the debate. (I'm in the one-time-initial-use of Glphosate is all-right camp, but since doing that we haven't used any chemicals - I'm not adverse to using insecticides to prevent a crop being destroyed!, but so far we haven't had to .)

So .. having got that out of the way! I wonder what your thinking is on the plasticisers from mulching-sheet leaching out into the soil? (plasticisers might be the wrong word, but you'll know the sorts of things I mean).

We only use cardboard for mulching in the Veg patch ... but having said that I know nothing of the provinence of the manure we put on - antibiotics, worming treatments, ... ??

I'm not sure that drawing the line in any particular bit-of-sand is a lot better than any other bit-of-sand

[snowdrops]

I  don't like using chemicals but have on occasions had to resort to it.I once saw a neat trick. Mix up appropriate weed killer,don a pair of rubber gloves followed by an old sock on one hand, dip socked hand in weed killer & rub all over foliage you want to kill. It really is very effective. For bind weed put up a cane for it to grow up & when it has plenty of growth on it use the same method. This way you don't get any spray on any other plants.

[Aunt Sally]

Original question:

i have a large area of weeds and grasses to clear, last year you lovely people on here told me about glyphosphate, but it was too late in the year to use it.  spring is round the corner so when can i start using it, and what is the best way of applying. also do i need to cover  the area after or just leave it to do it "thing" lol

[Mark-S]

To answer the question sepcifically - you can apply glyphosate at any time however the efficacy of is very much dependent upo the plant 'actively growing'.
The best method is through the use of a sprayer, although weed wipers also work.
You do not need to cover the ground after application.

A word to the wise unless you are a BASIS qualified & registered agronomist you need to be very careful in advising on the use of pesticides.

[Kristen]

A word to the wise unless you are a BASIS qualified & registered agronomist you need to be very careful in advising on the use of pesticides.

You mean advice I might give to a Farmer (which i am not qualified to do)? (fair enough)

or what I might say to a neighbour leaving over the fence? and probably reading off, or paraphrasing, what is written on my bottle of Glyphosate

Or something else maybe?