[joyfull]

I have 7 true bantams (ie sablepoots and barbu d'anvers so very tiny), 3 guinea fowl - which are gleaners so find most of their feed elsewhere), about 12 silkie crosses, and about 20 other birds (some large fowl araucanas, some bantam araucanas, speckled sussex, rescues, appenzellers etc) however whilst yours are on grass contained by their electric fences mine are all over - in the fields, down the bridleway, scratching along the side of the beck etc (our farmer feeds my birds quite well  ). As you will see my numbers are approximate owing to a lot being hatched in the hedgerows and coming and going as they please (I do know though that only 14 sleep in the trees in the garden as I have been out with the torch counting them) but others sleep down the bridleway and a few even sleep in coops. Whilst I may only have half an acre the chickens have at least 50 acres 

[hillfooter]

I have 7 true bantams (ie sablepoots and barbu d'anvers so very tiny), 3 guinea fowl - which are gleaners so find most of their feed elsewhere), about 12 silkie crosses, and about 20 other birds (some large fowl araucanas, some bantam araucanas, speckled sussex, rescues, appenzellers etc) however whilst yours are on grass contained by their electric fences mine are all over - in the fields, down the bridleway, scratching along the side of the beck etc (our farmer feeds my birds quite well  ). As you will see my numbers are approximate owing to a lot being hatched in the hedgerows and coming and going as they please (I do know though that only 14 sleep in the trees in the garden as I have been out with the torch counting them) but others sleep down the bridleway and a few even sleep in coops. Whilst I may only have half an acre the chickens have at least 50 acres  

You probably have a comparable number to me then if you discount the GF but even so basing your flubenvet requirements on one sack of feed is probably quite a bit on the light side.  I'd think a closer estimate might be 30 to 35 KG a week without the free ranging so I'd up the F by 50 to 75% of what you are giving now to account for the freeranging they are doing.

Mine only free range on grass apart from my bantams that have learnt that the bottom strand of the net isn't electrfied and they've grown adept at lifting this up and limboing under it.  they free range up and down our garden and veg patch though mostly they beg at the conservatory door as Carole can't resist giving them a handful of corn each time she goes out

HF

[jinty1911]

WOW!!  Thanks for that Hillfooter. Think option 2 the best.  The run is tiny and they would make such a racket that I would have Chicken Police at the door if I tried to keep them in it.  Have worked out that they get through 1.1 kilos a week so that makes the calculation easier (I think  )
ps How do I know it has worked? I really hope all these worms are not going to appear in their poo!! Got a phobia of worms especally internal ones YUK YUK YUK
Jinty

[hillfooter]

WOW!!  Thanks for that Hillfooter. Think option 2 the best.  The run is tiny and they would make such a racket that I would have Chicken Police at the door if I tried to keep them in it.  Have worked out that they get through 1.1 kilos a week so that makes the calculation easier (I think  )
ps How do I know it has worked? I really hope all these worms are not going to appear in their poo!! Got a phobia of worms especally internal ones YUK YUK YUK
Jinty

Well that's easy then.  Using the 1% F.

Weigh out 1.2Kg of pellets (best to have a bit more) and add one scoop (6grms) to it having first sprinkled a little corn oil on the pellets (any veg type will do if you don't have corn oil) and mixed well.  Sprinkle Flubenvet on the surface while mixing well.  Feed this for 7 days and no treats.  If it looks like they will not eat it all keep them in a little longer in the morning.  Any left over you can feed for a further two days or discard.

The only way to accurately tell if they are free is to send their droppings for microscopic examination there are companies which do this for horses and they can tell if there are worm eggs present.  Alternatively I think you can be pretty sure everything is ok if they have eaten the feed.  Their droppings maybe a little loose during the worming but should return to normal.

PLEASE NOTE IF YOU ARE READING THIS, THE FORMULA ABOVE IS SPECIFICALLY FOR JINTY'S FREE RANGING SITUATION AND NOT FOR SITUATIONS WHERE YOU ARE EXCLUSIVELY FEEDING MEDICATED FEED WITHOUT FREE RANGING.
HF

[alisonwo]

I only found out recently you can get the 2.5% Flubenvet, and although expensive at first it is way cheaper than the 1%.  I actually broke down the figures to work out how much to use but should have asked on here first would have been quicker.  By the by how often do you have to worm, I forget now.  My girls were last wormed on 2nd November 2010 for a week? Thankfully I have the foresight to diarise everything  alison

[hillfooter]

I only found out recently you can get the 2.5% Flubenvet, and although expensive at first it is way cheaper than the 1%.  I actually broke down the figures to work out how much to use but should have asked on here first would have been quicker.  By the by how often do you have to worm, I forget now.  My girls were last wormed on 2nd November 2010 for a week? Thankfully I have the foresight to diarise everything  alison

Depending on how often or not you change the ground but assuming you keep them on the same ground 4 times a year is best.  Mid winter (after moult) in Jan, April, July and Sept. ie more regularly in the warmer months.

If you change the ground say every 3 to 6 months on an annual cycle, twice a year and, theoretically, if you change it every 6 weeks on an annual cycle you shouldn't need to worm, though a single worming in summer I'd recommend.
HF

[joyfull]

Can I just point out to folks that there is no withdrawal period for eggs however if you are worming meat birds there is a 7 day withdrawal period.
Also if anybody is interested this pdf shows exactly where the different worms live inside the chicken and explains how they can get them:-

http://www.crowshall.co.uk/forms/flubenvet-brochure.pdf

and also if your birds free range or are in an uncovered run they can get them from beetles, wild birds etc so dosing is best to be done frequently. I worm mine every 3 months although I have never had any sign of them 

[hillfooter]

Can I just point out to folks that there is no withdrawal period for eggs however if you are worming meat birds there is a 7 day withdrawal period.
Also if anybody is interested this pdf shows exactly where the different worms live inside the chicken and explains how they can get them:-

http://www.crowshall.co.uk/forms/flubenvet-brochure.pdf

and also if your birds free range or are in an uncovered run they can get them from beetles, wild birds etc so dosing is best to be done frequently. I worm mine every 3 months although I have never had any sign of them  

Thanks for this Joy hadn't seen this but it's the sort of detailed information you would expect from a respectable scientific company on their product.  I bet you can't get anything remotely to compare from the manufacturers of VermX or it's peers.

Some interesting things to note on methods of husbandry to reduce worms, efficacy of Flubenvet  and safety.

HF

[ManicMum]

I've only had my five ex-batts for a week so I don't have any idea of how much they eat - I got 2 big part-full feeders with them & haven't even had to top those up yet (I want to give them a good scrub when empty, 1 at a time)

As the hens were not wormed since the previous owner got them from the previous owner in June, I think they should be wormed asap as they stress of the move might leave them more vulnerable to infestation.

Do I buy Flubenvet at the pet shop/farm suppliers? Sounds like the 1% would be easier to measure & I like the idea of the nice warm porridge with the sneaky meds in it.  Could I divide the porridge into individual portions to ensure everyone gets their share?

And please, experienced mathemetical geniuses, how much am I likely to need for the 5 quite lightweight hens? Then I can divide that by 7 to stir into treat then divide it by 5 each night.

Any other simple suggestions would be welcome!

[hillfooter]

I've only had my five ex-batts for a week so I don't have any idea of how much they eat - I got 2 big part-full feeders with them & haven't even had to top those up yet (I want to give them a good scrub when empty, 1 at a time)

As the hens were not wormed since the previous owner got them from the previous owner in June, I think they should be wormed asap as they stress of the move might leave them more vulnerable to infestation.

Do I buy Flubenvet at the pet shop/farm suppliers? Sounds like the 1% would be easier to measure & I like the idea of the nice warm porridge with the sneaky meds in it.  Could I divide the porridge into individual portions to ensure everyone gets their share?

And please, experienced mathemetical geniuses, how much am I likely to need for the 5 quite lightweight hens? Then I can divide that by 7 to stir into treat then divide it by 5 each night.

Any other simple suggestions would be welcome!

The difficult but accurate way
If you want to worm accurately using a single daily treat you need to use Aunt Sally's advice and worm by weight or know exactly how much they eat in a week so you can calculate how much they would need if they were getting it in their feed.  Then divide this into 7 portions and feed each day in treats.  

The easy and effective practical way
Alternatively you can guesstimate that your birds will eat 800grams a week each so that's 4kg for the 5 of them.  Two level scoops of 1% is therefore what you need.  Measure out 7 days of dry porridge treat portions say 100ml each, use a volume scoop  with 7 portions.  Very lightly sprinkle the F over the surface as you stir and mix well.  Set it aside and mark it so you don't accidentally worm hubby and the kids

Each MORNING take the volume measure equal to a seventh and make your medicated porridge.  Stir to remix the dry medicated porridge each day before you measure it out so the F doesn't settle out and you get an even distribution over the week. Try and ensure they all get roughly equal shares.  Feed pellets and /or freerange as normal ad libitum for the rest of the day

Buy flubenvet online )Google) and make sure it's the 1% mix.

Best of luck
HF
PS If they eat less than 800grams of feed this will be a slight overdose but well within safe limits.  I doubt they will get more than 800.

[jinty1911]

I have just bought some on the net.  £15 for 60 grams.  It will probably be out of date by the time I get through it all   

Thanks for everyone's help.  Don't think I'm confused anymore