[hillfooter]

I'd lift the roosting bars off the floor by at least 75mm and probably you just need to fit them to cross batons to do this.  ie the batons will lift them up.

Re staining it's best to just treat the outside with a waterproof stain and allow the inside to breathe that way you won't trap moisture in the laminations.

Does the back wall of the nestboxes lift off.  If so that will make them easy to clean.  Good idea.

When you fit the lift off wall you need to make it so that water running down the wall can't run onto the floor pan.  The wall needs to overlap the floor either the main wall sheet or by having an overhanging baton lip so water is shed away from the floor pan.  Locate the wall with two baton tenons into two rectangular holes in the floor inboard of the edge and support frame.  I assume there's a baton running under the edge of the floor to form a support.

It's looking very good Diggit you are certainly doing a good job.

HF 

[Diggit]

Thanks for the comments again HF. Much appreciated.

The nest box itself is fixed solid to the coop, but the whole of the back wall (the bit you can see with the silver handle attached) is removable for cleaning/egg collecting. I've got some large dowel that I'm thinking I could use for "pegs" on the bottom of the removable door. I tried the rectangular type on the nest box but it didn't work out. I'll see how it looks when I offer things up and decide which way to go.

Sounds like a simple enough idea with the perches, I left cutting the pop hole until I'd decided so I could raise them on cross batons no problem.

Thanks again,  

[hillfooter]

Thanks for the comments again HF. Much appreciated.

The nest box itself is fixed solid to the coop, but the whole of the back wall (the bit you can see with the silver handle attached) is removable for cleaning/egg collecting. I've got some large dowel that I'm thinking I could use for "pegs" on the bottom of the removable door. I tried the rectangular type on the nest box but it didn't work out. I'll see how it looks when I offer things up and decide which way to go.

Sounds like a simple enough idea with the perches, I left cutting the pop hole until I'd decided so I could raise them on cross batons no problem.

Thanks again,  

I'm trying to find some photos which show how Forshams hang the walls on the Lenham and these are the best I can find.





The first shows the removable nestbox and you will notice two batons below the nestbox openings which form tenons (pegs) which locate in two mortise holes in the floor.  Mortice holes are more clearly shown on the second photo between the floor pan sheet and the floor structural support rail.  The rear wall is leaning against the house on the RHS of the photo and you can just make out the tenons which locate in the holes.

Good idea with the nestbox rear but make it a fox proof fastening.

HF

[Diggit]

Thats what I did with the nest box...



You can see the slots here. I just couldn't get it accurate enough which is why I ended up with panel across it to stop any draught getting through. If the peg idea I have with the dowel works out then it'll be easier to make accurate as I can drill the holes and position the pegs the door when in position.

Thanks for the pics That is a very well made coop 

[hillfooter]

make sure the holes aren't blind then as they will fill up with litter and the dowels won't engage.
HF

[Lindeggs]

Oh what a lovely bit of carpentry!  Will you build me a house next, please?

[Diggit]

I dont think I'd fit a house in my garage lol

All the woodwork is no finished, I just need to cut the pop-hole and decide on catches and fit them. I'll stain it first though. I'll take some pics next time I go into the garage. We've picked a weekend to get the chooks so I now have a deadline of March the 6th to have the coop and run ready for the new girls!

Not long now! 

[Diggit]

The last couple of weeks have been a little hectic so not as much time spent on the coop as I'd hoped but I caught up this weekend with a good few hours in the garage.  

I got the removable back panel finished and I'm quite happy as it's strong and works really well. Just a few bid dowel pins that locate into holes in the base. The holes go straight through so that nothing can get lodged inside.





Then I cut the pop hole in the front. I've got the parts to fit an auto-open/closer. I'll take the time to lay this out properly later on as that is a job in itself.



Then cut the roof sheets to size.



And fitted roof beams for support. There will be an extra beam going from side to side too.



Tonight I managed to get the first coat of stain on so it's really coming to life now. As soon as I get a dry day I will take it out of the garage for the second coat. The first coat looks a little patchy. The light in the garage isn't the best so it's difficult to do inside.

The only things left to fit (apart from the pop hole mechanism) are the catches for the back panel and nest box side. I can't find the right ones in the places I've looked so far. I think I need to broaden my search!

Should all be in place next weekend for me to start on the run.   We have the weekend of the 5th and 6th of March set aside for picking up the hens.  

[Casey76]

Hi diggit, it looks like it's coming on really well... one question though...

If the back panel is removable, how are the supporting roof beams attached?

[Diggit]

Thanks Casey,

There is a strip of around 100mm high that runs along the top. This helps to tie the 2 side walls together and gives me a platform for the catches/fixings. It also allows the panel to come away without clashing with the roof that slopes down and overhangs the back edge. You can just see it in the top left of the second picture in the previous post.

[hillfooter]

Hi Diggit,

Looking good.  Was it a turn button like this you were after.  Ant decent iron mongers or screwfix will have them.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21220/Ironmongery/Bolts-Catches/Latches/Turn-Button-Solid-Brass-38mm-Pack-of-10

Now you are sure it won't blow over in a wind or a fox won't be able to tip it up aren't you?  Also what auto opener are you going to use?

HF

[Diggit]

Hi HF,

I was looking for something more light a catch than just a swivel but I suppose those in the link will be fine will they? I had only seen woodens ones and worried they wouldn't be strong enough.

It's very sturdy and weighty. Once in position I might hammer some steaks into the ground and screw to the outer legs just incase, shouldn't need to but it can only make it stronger.

For the opener I have a modified car wiper motor with a bicycle gear cog welded to the shaft. The theory works well on the bench but I want to play with it more before bolting it to the coop. I will show it in detail once I have it finished. Its using a lot of bits that I already have so it wont cost me much. Good for someone as frugal as me. lol

If it doesn't work or looks weak though I will go for an actuator to make sure it's secure. This is why I'm leaving till the last job. 

[hillfooter]

Yes you just screw two of the turn buttons to the fixed top rail of the house and turn them 90deg to retain the wall.  That's all I have on my house.

A wiper motor might not be so frugal with the power if you are battery powering.  Might be a bit too torquey as well.  Did you see my post on using an aerial motor.  This has a clutch and limit switches built in, just needs an up down signal.

http://chat.allotment-garden.org/index.php?topic=65865.msg756544#msg756544

HF

[Casey76]

Diggit, one thought, if you are putting your coop onto grass, you could put the back legs into Metaposts which have been hammered into the ground.  As they are metal they won't rot, and are movable (with a little bit of effort!)

I really need to make a start of building my little coops, but the price of decent exterior ply is absolutely scandalous, so I must wait until payday

[Lindeggs]

  Oh my goodness what a wonderful coop! 
  ^ That's a pic of me being very impressed.