4 x 4 chicken coop how many hens

I want to build a coop about 4 x 4 the size is because of materials available, I want to start with 3 hens but what would be the max in that space?

DEFRA's recommended minimum is 1sq ft per bird BOGOF, but we try to get people to give them as much space as possible.  I would only have 4 in a coop that size.  Then at least if it rains they have somewhere to shelter.  But 3 even better! 

How big is the run going to be?  A nice covered up area would be good for them too!  

I assume that this doesn't include the nestboxes too but if so subtract the available roosting space, and they have a reasonable run with a covered area for shelter from wind, rain & sun and they mainly use the house for roosting in.   I also assume this will be a small ark style house and not a walk in shed which will be too tall and airy with too much surface area for the available floor space to be warm in winteryou can easily get 8 or 9 medium sized hybrids or L/F pure breed hens in.   If bantams at least 12.

If you have a cockerel say 7 or 8 birds or if very large birds like Orps, Cochins or Brahmas  reduce to 5 - 6 ish.  They need about 10ins of perch space each and larger birds at least 1ft.  I prefer that the house isn't too large that they rattle about in there as they do need to be able to keep each other warm and if there's too much space they just huddle in a corner.

I prefer to have roosts made from a grill of perch bars suspended 6inches or more above a droppings area where the droppings fall through.  The biggest mistake I often see with DIY or cheaper ebay type houses is that they just provide single roosting rail above a floor the hens have access to.  This doesn't allow them to huddle together in really cold weather.  The chx also should not have access to the dropping area so they can't walk in it and pick about in.   I also prefer that they don't have much floor area in fact just a minimum to gain access t6o the nestboxes and perches as I don't expect them to spend much time in there during the day and I don't want to encourage them to sit or roost on the floor which is going to be fouled.

Nesting boxes should be accessible from the outside via hinged lids which is a far better solution than having to open the house to get them.  Also I always shut the nestboxes at night to prevent the chx roosting in them and fouling them causing poor hygienic conditions for the eggs.  So I'd prefer a means of shutting them at night.  You need about one box per 3 -4 birds.  They naturally want to lay in the same box to produce a clutch.

Ventilation above head height and baffled to prevent drafts is essential.

A completely flat floor is very much easier to keep clean by sweeping out.  I don't like dropping boards as inevitably they spill as you remove them or the wind blows the soiled litter out and also if they are of any size they get very heavy and awkward to handle and tip into a barrow.  Sweeping out in to a removable floor tray is ideal, or use a thick poly sheet which can be gathered up and tipped in a barrow also works well.  I use a combination of the above.  Dirt traps in inaccessible corners or raised edges to trap soiled litter preventing a clean sweep are the biggest mistake I see.

Vertically dropping pophole doors are by far the best solution for the hens and for security.  Horizontally or diagonally sliding doors slides get clogged with litter and can't use automatic door openers which might well be a sophistication you might want in future.  Also hinged doors can be used with auto openers or drawbridge type ramps and don't fit as well as vertically sliding ones.

See Forsham Cottage Arks Lenham design which has many of the features I like and has superb access and so is easy to keep clean.  Also Westbury (small maker at Oakham)houses look like well thought out.

It's also important to use good robust materials if you want it to last.  This is where most cheap ebay style houses fall down (litteraly).  Tongue and groove boarding of at least 12mm thickness fully treated for outside use is best but well treated marine ply of similar thickness is also Ok and minimises grooves and seams which provide harbourage for mites..  Don't use square butted up boarding which will shrink and warp over time making the walls drafty and leaky.  Use preferably planed or at least a smooth sawn finished timber.   Shiplap is OK for roofs but avoid any felting like the plague particularly for small houses as they are red mite and parasite heaven and you'll regret it everyday.
Corrugated 'Onduline' roof boards (a bitumen material) is good too though baffle well to prevent drafts or allow rats/ rodents to get in.  Use 30mm square batoning or similar to provide a strong framework.  Galvanised or even better still stainless steel screws and nails will last a lifetime.  Stapling and panel pins will quickly rust and should only be used to tack things.  The most likely parts which will need replacing periodically are the roof and possibly the floor so make sure it's possible to replace them without stripping down the house.  Use screws to fix not nails etc.

Well designed houses have a lot of chicken keeping knowledge and technique incorporated and require more than just good diy skills.  I see many well constructed and beautifully made houses which lack knowledge of chx needs and don't support good husbandry practises so make sure your efforts aren't spoilled by failing to appreciate the little subtleties which make a big difference to the ultimate results.
HF