Morning...
First of all I wouldn't recommend chicks to a first time keeper... but who am I to talk? I ended up with 6 chicks only two weeks after i got my first POL hens lol.
Lots of people I know use the big plastic crates/boxes as brooders for the first couple of weeks.
This is mine:
I think the crate is 80L - but it was the biggest I could find. That is a "proper" 175W infra red brooding lamp, but I've since switched to a more electricity bill-friendly electric hen... which means that most of the time I can't see the chicks, but it's easier on my pocket in the long run.
If you decide to do this you will need a few things...
Bedding: I really like aubiose (hemp) in the brooder. It is much less dusty than dust extracted shavings. For the first week I keep it covered with cheap kitchen roll, as it is easy to swap out a few times a day - chicks are little pooing machines, and quickly grow into bigger and bigger pooing machines!
Feeder: I have special chick gravity feeders, but you may want to use a jam jar lid or similar fo the first couple of days.
Waterer: Again, I have specific chick waterers with a very narrow lip which reduced the chances of drowning (chicks tend to fall asleep as they bimble around, literally falling over where they stand. If they do this on an "open" water source then can easily drown). Again you can use a shallow dish and put marbles in it. But using a flat recepticle will mean that you have to change the water several times a day as the chicks will poo in it.
Chick crumbs: Chick crumbs are a high protein (usually between 18 and 22% protein) pellet which has been broken into pieces small enough for baby chicks to eat easily.
When first introducing the chicks to the brooder, use your index finger to "peck" at the crumbs and the chicks will come over to investigate and mimic your action and so they will learn where the crumbs are. Do the same with the water.
Depending on the age of the chicks, if you are using an infra red bulb, the temerature under it should be between 30 and 33*C for the first week, reducing by 3 to 5 degrees each week - this is done by increasing the height of the lamp above the brooder.
At this time of year, you should expect any chicks to require heat for about 6 weeks constantly, and maybe another two weeks with heat at night depending on how warm it is outside.
I keep my chicks ina room which is a constant 20*C for the first month, then move them to an unheated room for the last two weeks before moving them outside.
Silkies are a bit special. As they are missing the gene which creates proper feathers they are very susceptible to getting wet, and many people advise keeping them under cover all the time. They should also not have access to water in which they can get their crest wet as this can lead to other issues (like eye infections). As a crested breed, you will need to pay special attention to their crests, as they can be prone to mite infestations. Also take care to check between their legs, as their feathers can become matted leading to leg problems. Silkies are also infamous for being difficult to sex, this is partly due to their walnut comb, and because cockerel feathers are somewhat hidden by their silky appearence.
Good luck!