Your blackberry should produce new shoots from below ground (maybe not this year), When it produces those shoots (Year two shoots) cut the original shoot back to ground level in late Autumn/Winter. Let the Year two shoots grow and fruit the following year, while they are doing this more shoots (Year Three Shoots) should start to emerge, I tie these up together to keep them out of the way. Once the Year Two Shoots have fruited cut them back to ground level over winter then train the Year Three Shoots along the wires tie the Year Four Shoots up together and so on. I usually allow about six shoots per stool. If the shoots become too long for the width you have then make them into coils of about 2ft diameter, the bending of the shoots is supposed to encourage more fruiting.
With the gooseberries choose one stem and look for three buds about 6 inches above the ground (you can do it lower but it makes life easy for gooseberry sawfly), you want to train the shoots from one of these left at about 45 degress, one right at about 45 degrees and the other straight up. Once you have good strong shoots I would remove the other stems and any other buds on the main stem you are keeping.
In year two continue to train the left and right shoots at 45 degrees and trim any side shoots off these to about 5 leaves (these will be your fruiting spurs next year). The vertical shoot is left to continue upwards, remove any side shoots from it until the height of your next tier where you retain 3 side shoots (one left, one right, one up) and repeat the process as for your first tier. Don't keep the original upward shoot as the upward shoot for the next tier or it will be more vigorous than the angled shoots and dominate the plant.
In late winter trim the fruiting spurs back to two leaf joints to keep short stubby fruiting spurs. Shorten the new growth on the 45 degree branches by about 2/3. Once your 45 degree branches have reached the width you want just pinch the tip out, it will try and produce more shoots on these ends, keep pinching them off and it eventually gets the message you don't want it to keep growing that way, same can be done with the vertical leader when you get to the final height you want. Gooseberries apparently prefer to grow in the fan shape than as espaliers, nobody told me before I trained mine as espaliers years ago, and they don't seem to mind either.
My redcurrant pruning is quite haphazard so I wouldn't attempt to describe it here.
My fruit beds are 8'x2' and run North/South, I have two gooseberries, three redcurrants or three blueberries in each bed.