[mumofstig]

Ha Ha I Like it 

I'll put off sowing mine for a while as my greenhouse isn't heated 

[New shoot]

I'm going to live dangerously and try it in the unheated greenhouse  My greenhouse is in a sheltered spot and I have the blowaway in there and a goodly supply of fleece if need be 

[Comfreypatch]

I don't do a very early sowing, I sow in root trainers and bring on in greenhouse then coldframe before planting out. Support with pea sticks, I get good hazel ones from local wildlife trust, then cover with with enviro mesh. I only grow Hurst Greenshaft. I do two sowings. Have done this now for two years and had good success. All previous methods have not seen a good crop. I also tried some late mangetout last year with excellent results, using the same method.

[Salmo]

  One thing I think I did learn was that my late peas growing near the late courgettes covered in powdery mildew got the same powdery mildew on them.  Surprised me.

66
The mildew that grows on courgettes and peas is not the same one. Mildew is very species specific. The common denominator in your case was probably weather conditions that suited mildew development.

I start off in root trainers or modules and plant out. Modules planted 3 inches apart in the row each with 3 or 4 pea plants. Sow the first half of March in a windowsill, transfer to cold frame as soon as they emerge, plant out when first leaves begin to expand. Do not make the mistake of letting then get 6 inches tall before planting out.

[beesrus]

I have a smaller early grown crop in the greenhouse, overwintering this year now under fleece. This stops the temptation of sowing outside too early. That is done first half of March under cloches, just before the potatoes, so as to keep off the mice.
I keep them netted once up and running, as much for the birds than moth. I've only sown late a couple of times, but mildew doesn't seem to be a problem for me if I do
I have found peas are one of those crops where the variety makes a big difference.