[andyw]

I recently purchased this rotavator, I know it's a Merry Tiller but am not sure if it's the wizzard or the Cadet, I'll go with Cadet.
The guy that sold it said that it was serviced.  When I got it home I took it to a workshop and was told that the wrong spark plug was fitted and a car fan belt was used for the drive.  Anyway I've now got this sorted and I think I've correct the idle speed.  What I am now left with is a leaking Tines shaft and a question about the travel wheel.  Should I just top up the chain drive area as and when I used this or is it worth replacing the seals etc?  And with the travel wheel what would normally lock this in place for moving the rotavator around?  There is a white bar that hooks over the locking pin by the wheel, if someone can advise what was used before that would be great.  Also can I use uleaded in this with some sort of additive?
Also has anyone ever put the time and money into restoring these, or should I just use it for the purpose and then skip?  You can probably see from the pics that this is very old and has not been looked after.  Hopefully the pics will upload ok.

[andyw]

Another pics.

[Gwiz]

I'd fit some new seals as I know I'd forget to put oil in one day.....
As for more info on your machine, I expect Mr Tallentire will be along to give you more precise details at some point

[andyw]

Thanks Gwiz.  Can these sort of jobs be tricky?  I am more than happy to have a go but want to be left with a pile of parts that don't seem to go back together again!

[Gwiz]

I cannot remember for the life of me, for sure, whether the crankcase has to be split open on these to replace the seals or not. I have a nagging feeling that you have to.
Our member Mr Tallentire is well versed on just about every Merry Tiller, or so it seems to me! I'm sure he will pick up on this thread in due course.
In the meantime, If you can remember to fill the chain case with the recommended amount of oil (and your ground isn't frozen solid ) then give it a go!

[R Tallentire]

Right, the only differences between early Cadets and Wizards was that Cadets had a cowl over the engine, and the colour, as yours is red I would assume a Cadet. The engine on yours is non standard, it has a small fuel tank so may be 2hp and has a replacement engine pulley. Someone has moved it back on the chassis, you can see the original front mounting holes. The belt guide has been removed and replaced with a “home made” one but if it works i.e. the rotors do not try to move round with the clutch disengaged, this is no problem. The US went unleaded in the 1960s so B & S engines were made for unleaded fuel. You may be able to get the seals out as they are rubber cased and not as tight as the metal cased ones on Majors etc. but I have always taken the cases apart as you are then certain of removing them without damaging the cases and you can check the bearings and chains for wear. There are two “single lip” seals in each side, placed back to back. The wheel frame hooks round a chaincase bolt when down. This is a bit feeble and the white bar may just be an extra to stop the frame jumping out when the wheel hits a bump.

[andyw]

Thanks for all the info R Tallentire.  From what you were saying about the HP I think I can make out the bottom of a 2 by the HP.
Why would they move the engine from the original mounts?
I had a look at the merry tiller site and there should be a locking nut to hold the wheels in transit but where this should be is in fact a standard nut and bolt.

I paid £100 for this and all in all I was ripped off, I saw another one go on Ebay for £135 today and that looked pristine compared to this.

[Gwiz]

I'd have to say a proper auction is always better than ebay. You'll pay less and have the chance to see what you're buying close up before spending any money.
Ebay has major limitation. I hope you get yours working ok.

[Billnorfolk]

Hi i have a Landmaster,very simulare machine .I had the problem with tyne seals leaking got all the oil out a nd pumped grease in no more leaks,that was 4 years ago still ok no problems though only use it 2or3 times a year.

[andyw]

So all you did was to replace the oil with grease and you didn't have to replce the seals?  So is grease better than gear oil, I guess being thicker it won't run out as much?

[smud6ie]

Why would they move the engine from the original mounts?

May be they fitted a larger drive pulley and couldn't find a longer belt so moved the engine  to compensate.Fitting the larger pulley would also have increased the rotor speed.
smud6ie

[andyw]

That does make sense now, when I took this to the workshop the guy grabbed what he thought would fit and when he put it on it was too big.  I would like to get this cleaned up a bit and maybe fit new cables and throttle control, but on the other hand it is money down the drain.  It would look better with the frame painted!

[Billnorfolk]

So all you did was to replace the oil with grease and you didn't have to replce the seals?  So is grease better than gear oil, I guess being thicker it won't run out as much?

Think the main reason seals go is lack of use,being stood seals stick to shaft after a long period of no use,then useing it usually tears them and they also perish,as i say it works for me ,but then it only does about 4-5 hours a year.Put a small amount of oil in plug hole pull over a couple of times refit plug ,clean any dirt off wipe over with an oily rag ,oil can all moveing bits cover up in shed forget about till next time.I change engine oil every other year and still has same plug as when bought but have a new ons sitting ready on the shelf if needed.I do drain and reefill fuel tank every winter before use

[R Tallentire]

Don’t try the poke a bit of grease down the filler hole idea, it won’t work. I bought a fairly modern Merry Tiller from a hire firm and their “mechanic” must have been a bodger as, when stripped, the chaincase had grease in it instead of oil. There was quite a bit of rust, I guess pressure washing ready for the next hirer had forced some water into the cases, the rotor bearings and shaft were rusty and worn as grease couldn’t get in there like oil can, the chains were dry and the rollers cracking up because the grease had been flung off and was stuck in blobs on the cases.

[Billnorfolk]

Don’t try the poke a bit of grease down the filler hole idea, it won’t work. I bought a fairly modern Merry Tiller from a hire firm and their “mechanic” must have been a bodger as, when stripped, the chaincase had grease in it instead of oil. There was quite a bit of rust, I guess pressure washing ready for the next hirer had forced some water into the cases, the rotor bearings and shaft were rusty and worn as grease couldn’t get in there like oil can, the chains were dry and the rollers cracking up because the grease had been flung off and was stuck in blobs on the cases.

As i say it works for me ,but only doing 4-5 hours a year is different to a hire one doing several 100 hours a month.If mine was being used every day then i would go the right way with oil.As a matter of interest i melted the grease so liquid and got over a pint in so it wasnt a case of pokeing a bit in the filler hole.For a company to strip mine and replace seals would have cost more than the rotovator cost me when i bought it ,as you say maybe a bodge but for me it works without alot of outlay ,when retired and working on a budget sometimes you have to take the cheap way out