Walls

Lardman · « **on:** March 27, 2011, 15:15 »

Im digging into the hill side to create a nice flat base for a shed, something I would rather not be doing but I don't have much choice.

Last year when I did this for the greenhouse I was left with the need to retain 2 ft of soil, although I wasn't keen I banged some posts in and put some gravel boards behind shich has held up surprisingly well. Im 8ft further back now and I need to retain 3.5 / 4ft which is about the point where things start to get a bit ... iffy.

As far as I can tell basically I have 3 options.

1. Somehow man handle 6ft concrete posts up there, concrete them in and use 4 gravel boards.

2. Dig deeper pour foundations and build a retaining wall from concrete blocks.

3. Raise the front end of the shed 2ft and use 2 gravel boards and some wood posts as before.

Cost is, as always an issue but so is safety.

N.WalesIdealist · « **Reply #1 on:** March 27, 2011, 16:04 »

Well raising the shed is certainly the easiest, and probably safest way of doing it, but if I've got it pictured in my mind properly, it wouldn't be aesthetically pleasing.

After that, I think I'd go for the concrete posts and gravel boards over the wall, unless you're planning to brace the wall?

How long is the face of the soil that you need to hold back? I'm not technical but I should think that the wider it is, the more secure you'll want to make it, and a retaining wall of bricks might not hold very well over a long area.

arugula · « **Reply #2 on:** March 27, 2011, 16:04 »

Or you could consider railway sleepers pinned together two to three high and stacked/staggered....

Lardman · « **Reply #3 on:** March 27, 2011, 17:00 »

Quote from: N.WalesIdealist on March 27, 2011, 16:04

Well raising the shed is certainly the easiest, and probably safest way of doing it, but if I've got it pictured in my mind properly, it wouldn't be aesthetically pleasing.

Not really, it would also be 2ft above the green house, and its the door end which would mean constantly lifting things in and out.

Quote from: N.WalesIdealist on March 27, 2011, 16:04

How long is the face of the soil that you need to hold back?

At the moment it would be a sort of U shape , 10ft across the bottom and 6ft each side, with the sides holding 3ft down to nothing, so anything I do will have sort of built in buttresses.

Google tells me 6ft posts are 56Kgs which is probably about the max I can manage.

Quote from: argyllie on March 27, 2011, 16:04

Or you could consider railway sleepers pinned together two to three high and stacked/staggered....

Access, availability, cost and weight

Already been there....

N.WalesIdealist · « **Reply #4 on:** March 27, 2011, 17:16 »

Well, I'll start off by saying that I'm my no means technical, so please get my adivce checked! But...It sounds like a retaining wall made of blocks, in the shape of the U-shape you describe might the best way of doing this. I imagine you'll have to put a pillar in the middle of the 10ft long section, perhaps even 2?

Another possiblity which is probably what I'd do if it was my project, was to dig foundations around the edge, and pour foundations as well as a base over the whole site. that way, you've got decent depth foundations plus a smooth long life base to put your shed on!

Perhaps that was your plan all along?

arugula · « **Reply #5 on:** March 27, 2011, 17:18 »

Quote from: Lardman on March 27, 2011, 17:00

Quote from: argyllie on March 27, 2011, 16:04
Or you could consider railway sleepers pinned together two to three high and stacked/staggered....

Access, availability, cost and weight Already been there....

Oh well!

Concrete posts and gravel boards then in one solid wall (rather than strong stacked and terraced sleepers), but the gravel board method is not that strong....

Edit: clarification.

grendel · « **Reply #6 on:** March 27, 2011, 17:28 »

a quick google shows some alternatives:-
long link remember to withstand the pressure either the wall needs to lean into theslops slightly, or to have some form of support as the above example.
grendel

N.WalesIdealist · « **Reply #7 on:** March 27, 2011, 18:27 »

Grendel's example looks brilliant, if a little hard work.

It's reminded though of somthing that might be a little bit easier to do yourself...

Inspired by a snow anchor sort of design, I wonder if you dug a T shaped trench, with the bottom of the T starting at the wall, and going into the hillside, you could put in a piece of wood parallel to the wall, connect another piece to that which lies in the trench connected to the wall, then connect that piece to the wall. A poor description I'm afraid!!!

I've attached a picture to try and get my point across...

Lardman · « **Reply #8 on:** March 27, 2011, 20:09 »

Thats a novel take on a wall tie

Im torn between doing it properly and just getting it done. I suppose the ultimate answer is it depends on how long I think I'll be at this address.

Might have to get the calculator out.

2peasinapod · « **Reply #9 on:** March 29, 2011, 01:00 »

you may be pleased to know that if you have the space, simply angleing the face of the wall at 45deg or less would stop the face of the wall collapsing.

look at a motorwayor other main road where it cuts into a soil bank or spoil piles at your average pit.

45deg is the natural self support slope and i would think will work well on a scale your considering, especially as the soil left would be undisturbed/compacted.

you could even grass seed the slope the form a binding top coat.

this has to be the cheapest meathod and probably not as labour intensive as pouring concreate foundations which would have to be carried to site...

HTH mark.

Walls

Lardman

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N.WalesIdealist

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arugula

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Lardman

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N.WalesIdealist

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arugula

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grendel

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N.WalesIdealist

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Lardman

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2peasinapod

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