[geordie-exile]

Hi,

New to the board and just got a plot at the beginning of April.  I managed to get a Merry Tiller on ebay last night which apparently has compression but no spark.  I haven't picked it up yet so don't know anything more than this.  I've managed to find plenty of places which sell mechanical components but can't seem to find any who stock ignition stuff.  Not worried about plugs, leads etc but would appreciate any advice on where to find other ign components and a pdf manual if required.  Does anyone know if these are 2 or 4 stroke?

Thanks in advance.

[dorimower]

http://www.briggsbits.co.uk/acatalog/Older_2-7_HP_Vertical_Crankshaft_Engines.html

Hello,
  You can find ignition parts listed on the above link....I have dealt with BriggsBits once and found their service good and prompt.

 However, do not forget your local garden machinery agent....all garden machinery agents will be very familiar with Briggs & Stratton engines and will carry spares to suit..

**The assumption here in all the above is that your tiller has an original engine.?.... Briggs & Stratton 4 stroke.

Have a look at the engine cowling of any B&S engine...stamped into it there should be 3 sets of numbers...Model, Type, Code...these are the key to getting correct spares and info to suit...the only time this gets blurred is if a new/secondhand cowling has been fited in some past history.

From the Briggs & Stratton website you can download a full parts list and chances are an operators manual too (not service manual)...this again will be using the numbers from the engine tinwork http://www2.briggsandstratton.com/

The last set of numbers, Code, gives date of manufatcure of engine...Year, Month, Day, Factory.

Hope this helps your endeavours....

"Dori".

[geordie-exile]

Many thanks for the advice, that should cover just about everything.  From the pictures the engine looks to have aged / corroded over a similar time to the rest of the tiller, so hopefully it will be the original.  I'll know more when I collect it.  Any idea whether they are usually 2or 4 stroke.

[Gwiz]

I would say all of the above also, and I'll raise you a "there normally ALL four stroke, if it's a briggs engine"
 

[geordie-exile]

Thanks fellas.  Now I have it I am sure it is the original engine, or at least one from the same era.  The date code says it's a 1970 model but the ignition appears to be a sealed electronic module attached to a magneto which isn't working.  I may be wrong but I'm fairly sure it would originally have had points.  Having had a quick look at the Briggs site it looks as though a new magneto assembly is about £47.  Is it likely that they would be any cheaper in a local mower shop?

[Gwiz]

No, but they might have a second hand one.
you're quite right about the points, it would have had them. Do you have a picture of the module? it might just be that thats gone kaput. I think the last one I bought ( if its a bolt on go faster goodie) was about £10.

[geordie-exile]

Not sure if its the right one exactly but it looks like this.

[geordie-exile]

A few more pics for info from you experts.

Thanks

[Gwiz]

right, that top pic is the ignition coil, and not the bolt on go faster goodie I was expecting. Being a "white" engine, I would expect you to have a set of points under your flywheel, this is than likeley where you will find the problem.
much has been written on the subject about removing and replaceing the points in this section.
remove the cowling, remove the recoil starter pawl mechanism, remove the flywheel. under this you will find an alluminum cover that is held on by two 4BA bolts, and under this you will find the points.
have a look here:
http://www.chat.allotment-garden.org/viewtopic.php?t=2353

that'll get you started.

[geordie-exile]

Thanks Graham, I've reset the gap and tried another plug, still no spark.  I intend to buy a points kit tomorrow and then try a new coil if I still have no joy.  Anything else I should try first?  (The pipe wrench was a good tip)

[Bigbadfrankie]

put the coil in a warm dry place for a while (low oven)

[Gwiz]

I shouldn't think it's going to be a duff coil. far more likeley to be duff points.
when you fit the new ones, just make sure you "dress" them on some fine emery cloth before fitting them, or they won't work either!
I take it that you have checked the cut out wire from the points to the cut out switch, just to make sure that it isn't damaged or earthing out?

[geordie-exile]

Right then, spark achieved with new points and plug - thanks gwiz

Two more problems now.  Firstly the spring is knackered on the starting puller, I was getting a bit enthusiastic with it when it jammed.  Took it to bits to rewind it and I snapped it.  Managed to wind on what was left but it's not very effective.

I can get the engine to start, sort of, but it only runs for about 2 seconds and then cuts out. :evil:  :twisted:  :evil:  :twisted:

Therefore my questions are:  

When the spring is wound on the starter is it supposed to double back on itself? That's how it was when I removed it.

The starting for 2 seconds seems to be a couple of pulls after I pour a capful of fuel direct into the carb.  There is a little bit of back pressure when pulled which spits a little spot of fuel back out of the carb.  Is it likely that I have a fuelling problem or a breathing problem?  Could a blocked crankcase breather cause this?

[Gwiz]

the spring isn't supposed to double back on it's self. that's if I have understood what you mean by this.
as for the other problem, it sounds as if you have the usual problem of blocked pick up pipes in the fuel tank coupled with a worn out diaphragm.
if you are going to be poping along to a shop to buy spares, I wouldn't waste time "making do" with the original recoil spring, far better to replace it. the diaphragm won't cost any more than about £3 and should be more like £1
You may very well find that when you take off the fuel tank to remove and clean the carb ect, that you damage the gaskets. there is one between the carb and the engine, also one between the fuel tank and carb body.
you can use a suitable instant gasket such as hylomar, but if in any doubt at all, get a new one (of both)
the fuel you buy nowadays tends to go off very quickly, and will "gum up" the fine fuel filters on the ends of the pick up pipes.
clean these with "carb cleaner", and blow them through with an air line. while you're "at it", a squirt or two into the carb whilst it's in bit's won't do any harm at all.
you'll have it going again in no time at all!
keep us all posted!

[geordie-exile]

Had a feeling your reply may be something along these lines, even though I was hoping it wouldn't be.  Looks like I'll be spending most of tomorrow on it too.  My local shop takes two days for 'order in' parts, nightmare..........  

I really need to get this thing running..........

Is the rewind spring easy to fit properly and where should it be anchored other than the centre of the pulley? (Metal pulley type)  Is it supposed to be trapped in the gap just below where the rope exits the housing?

Is it worth buying the Briggs rewind tool as it's only a tenner or so?