Allotment Gardening Advice Help Chat
Growing => Grow Your Own => Topic started by: snow white on October 21, 2014, 17:59
-
The last two years garlic rust has decimated my garlic leading to tiny cloves. Different place each time. Should I grow in a raised bed in new soil? Or is it conditions that cause it?
-
Not sure about that Snow to be honest. My rust was the worst Ive experienced this year yet the bulbs were also the biggest. I'm sure rust must weaken the plant but not sure to what extent.
-
It has spores inside the rusty bits, and there are always enough Alliums, generally, to continue the spread from one place to another. Weather conditions can make it worse - this year was the worst I've seen :ohmy:
The RHS says
•Infection is worse on nitrogen-rich soils with low potassium, so take care with fertiliser applications
-
The RHS says
•Infection is worse on nitrogen-rich soils with low potassium, so take care with fertiliser applications
So what's the best fert to put down?? I've got about 6kgs of Growmore would that be ok?
-
We've all had rust in our town on all the different allotments on different sites. It's spread by wind.
Once you have had it you shouldn't grow alliums (garlic, leeks, onions, chives) again on the affected patch for three years (that's where crop rotation comes in). And you should burn or dispose of your "greenery" (all the stuff you don't eat) from your plot or garden (but not to the council composting or rust will just be passed on to others).
We all used different fertilisers this season with the same result. So if you have Growmore, use it because we have no definite answers on that one here. :)
How's that for this season's experience from 100 allotments in one town in the north east? Hope it's of some use to someone.
-
Oh not quite the answer I had hoped for. :( will just have to plant and pray then. :unsure:
-
It's not guaranteed you won't get rust but you could try to reduce humidity in the bed by:
1. spacing your garlic further apart (to maybe 8 inches) with wide gaps between rows
2. position your rows in the same direction as the wind (a north south works for my plot)
to improve air movement and drying effect.
Grow an early maturing variety - the longer the plant has to stay in the ground to mature, the worse the damage done before the garlic has been able to bulk up.
Add a spring dressing (or water it in, whatever works for you) of potash (the RHS statement mentioned nitrogen rich soils with low potassium) This also helps to bulk up the bulbs as well. So Growmore will be fine with some added potash later.
Oh not quite the answer I had hoped for. :( will just have to plant and pray then. :unsure:
You could try plant and spray - at the end of the day, rust is a fungus and there are several treatments around. They tend to work best BEFORE rust is visible, so when temperatures start to rise in spring and foliage emerges, get ready with whatever you want to use. I think there was a topic not long ago about various remedies people want to try including Bordeaux mixture, inserting bits of copper wire into a few plants to see if it works or using one of the products available on the market specific for fruit and veg. I have been googling various organic methods which include spraying compost tea (the idea that the bacteria present in the liquid will protect the plant from invaders), or a dilution of milk and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) - I have no idea if any of these work or not, but they can't do much harm either unlike some of the more toxic ideas thrown about.
-
I also had rust this season.
Doing some research I found that you must rotate your garlic moving it to a different area
of the plot.
High levels of nitrogen and low levels of potassium are thought to make it worse.
So I am planting mine in the area that the cabbage plants have just been cleared and
will give some potassium in the form of potash in the early spring.
I have found if you take off and burn any leaves showing signs of rust it slows down the spread.
Hope this helps
-
Growmore is 7 7 7 which means 7% nitrogen, 7 % phosphorus, 7% potassium
so you are adding nitrogen with grow more.
I never give plants I want to over winter any fertilizer in the autumn
it promotes soft growth which you don't want, the plants aren't growing fast enough to use it,
and it will get washed out of the soil by the winter's rain.
I was always taught to put fertilizer on in early spring when the plants start growing.
-
I had the start of rust on my young leeks just a few weeks ago, so I took off the affected leaves, gave a dose of potash, and just in case sprayed with an anti-fungal. So far no sign of rust returning.
-
Growmore is 7 7 7 which means 7% nitrogen, 7 % phosphorus, 7% potassium
so you are adding nitrogen with grow more.
Who are you referring to? Me?
So Growmore will be fine with some added potash later.
Potash is Potassium sulphate and has no nitrogen ;)
I never give plants I want to over winter any fertilizer in the autumn
it promotes soft growth which you don't want, the plants aren't growing fast enough to use it,
and it will get washed out of the soil by the winter's rain.
I was always taught to put fertilizer on in early spring when the plants start growing.
Sounds fine :) Sometimes experience works too as to when it is best to apply fertiliser in your area and soil type.
-
The RHS says it all.
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=214 (https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=214)
It is mainly spread by spores blown in the wind.
Later in the season dark resting spores are formed on the shrivelled leaves. It does not say how long these survive but we can only suppose they survive the compost heap and/or carry over the Winter in the soil.
There are no chemicals approved for use by gardeners so those who say they use Bordeaux mix or other fungicides are not within the rules.
edit to clarify link