[GillyHen]

In fact it might be an idea to somehow plant the young small plants into an upside down 2l bottle; plenty of compost around the stem, to encourage extra feeder root growth - then perhaps cut the first inch of the bottle top off to sink into the growbag and allow those drinking roots to come out?

[barney rubble]

I use the bottles for watering the toms and peppers in the border. I just cut the bottom off, leave the top off and sink the bottle pointy-end down into the border, and just water into them. Makes the toms send down long roots to get the water, whilst keeping top of soil dry, so less evaporation and splashing of fruit, and slugs n snails don't like the dry soil as much.
Tom hanks haha

thanks or tom if you prefer...

[Kristen]

The "water roots" and "feeder roots" is the principle of Ring Culture, and I did try that when I was a lad (back then it was Ring Culture pots (11" or so, bottomless)  on a bed of gravel, which was kept topped up with water, and the pots only fed once a week, or so.

What I don't understand, and hope someone can help with, is surely the feeder roots dessicate, or at the least get stressed, if they only get "moisture" [in the shape of liquid feed] once a week? TO my mind this is counter intuitive with creating a stress-free plant so as to get best quality, and flavour, fruit?

[Ivor Backache]

The "water roots" and "feeder roots" is the principle of Ring Culture, and I did try that when I was a lad (back then it was Ring Culture pots (11" or so, bottomless)  on a bed of gravel, which was kept topped up with water, and the pots only fed once a week, or so.

What I don't understand, and hope someone can help with, is surely the feeder roots dessicate, or at the least get stressed, if they only get "moisture" [in the shape of liquid feed] once a week? TO my mind this is counter intuitive with creating a stress-free plant so as to get best quality, and flavour, fruit?

Upturned bottles are a good way to direct water to drinking roots but you do not really know if the plant actually needs watering.
I stand all my tomato pots in plastic trays. I put the water in the tray and feed from the top. The roots pull the water to the surface and the compost remains damp and black. (If the tray is empty for a few days you will see the surface compost begin the dry and turn to its natural brown colour.)
I water every other day only if the tray is dry. If it has been a hot day the plant will draw up the water and the tray will have to be refilled.
I feed each week usually on a Monday and the compost will be moist, and no chance of desication/stress. Sometimes the feed shows up in the tray as a brown stain. It is soon drawn back into the pot.
Bit long winded but I hope it helps. Works similar to the ring culture system that you described.

[peterjf]

in darkest east yorkshire we wait until the 1st tomatoes show ,

mine are about the size of peas ,

so will start feeding on saturday with maxi crop seaweed extract,

20ml per 2 gallons of water, giving each tomato plant a good gallon every saturday ,

 then every wednesday i will water 1/2 gallon of fresh water  for each plant, the water

 that has been left in the greenhouse over night ,

so i dont shock my little darlings lol

[gillie]

"What I don't understand, and hope someone can help with, is surely the feeder roots dessicate, or at the least get stressed, if they only get "moisture" [in the shape of liquid feed] once a week? TO my mind this is counter intuitive with creating a stress-free plant so as to get best quality, and flavour, fruit?"

I have been using the ring culture method for very many years (I can't stand the sight of grow bags).   I don't see any point in letting the roots in the pot get too dry so I water the pots and the gravel nearly every day, and feed the pots once a week. 

We get very  well flavoured crops and not much splitting.

Cheers,

Gillie

[Kristen]

"I water the pots and the gravel nearly every day"

That makes good sense to me!