[Helenaj]

It's hatching day tomorrow - 5 australorps and two mixed breed hens. I have them in a Brinsea Mini Advance 7 egg incubator which gets very crowded once hatching starts and causes problems with newly hatched chicks turning the other hatching eggs over. Last hatch I had to help one out of its shell as it had become exhausted due to being turned over several times and thereby covering the crack it had managed to make in its shell. I'm loath to remove the chicks from the incy whilst still wet as Ii don't want to risk chilling them or reducing the humidity on hatch day.
I've noticed some on here mentioning a hatcher - what is it and can I make one ready? It looks to be a good idea as it'll give them a lot more room, but obviously how do I keep the humidity high to prevent the drying out of the egg membrane? If anyone has any plans please make them idiot proof - the simpler the better!

[Casey76]

I use a manual incubator as a hatcher.  Any incubator would be suitable to use, though.  I know some people actually prefer a still air incubator to hatch in.

Normally hatched chicks playing football with the unhatched ones shouldn't be a problem.  In the past I've found that any chicks I've had to help from the shell are weak and sickly - though, of course there are exceptions to everything

[jaxchucks]

Im not sure if what I do is right but I always remove the chick as soon as its hatched, I use an indoor  rabbit cage with an infa red light over the top, I have the cage in the lounge and make sure the heating is on and the lounge is warm. I put the infa red lamp on as soon as I can see the chick making its way out. I have not lost any chicks by removing them. Tomorrow is hatching day for me too but not very hopeful as we had a 13 hour power cut on Monday thanks to electric board!!!! so not sure if they will have survived

[Casey76]

jaxchucks, you should not remove them from the incubator until they are fully dry and fluffed up, even moving them to a correctly heated brooder they can still catch a chill - especailly if they are still exhausted from hatching.

[Helenaj]

I have an old still air incy in the loft so shall dig it out and test it tonight. I don't normally help chicks out of the shell, it just seemed to be bashed about by everyone. However, I'm glad that I did as that chick is now the bossiest one of all!

[Sassy]

The usual rule of thumb is to leave them for 24 hours after they have hatched. Casey is right. Also removing them as they hatch can affect the humidity/temperature in the incubator and hinder those still to hatch. They hatch with over 24 hours worth of food attached to them. Good luck

[hillfooter]

My rule of thumb if they are pipping well, is to wait until half the brood has hatched (which is typically 12 hrs or so after the first hatched) and then remove the dry ones and the empty shell debris.  I then wait untill all the remaing pipped eggs are hatched and remove them.  Any that haven't shown signs of pipping 48 hrs after the first lot were removed I usually assume aren't going to and I may give a bit more time to if it's been a rapid hatch but 72 hrs is a max.

Try to avoid helping them out and certainly not breaking an egg shell which is only slightly pipped.   I have tipped a chick out of a shell if it's been stuck to it or removed stuck shell from a chicks back.  Actually the movement of the egg can encourage and help a chick out and the cheeping of new hatched chicks seems to encourage the ones which are about to hatch.

If your incubator is large enough and you have a good mister spray a brief puff of this after removing the first batch will help maintain humidity but don't wet the eggs or as little as possible.  I wouldn't bother with a hatcher as I believe leaving them alone as much as possible when close to hatch is the safest course.

Chx aren't as frail as they look and the ones that usually don't make it out are the weaklings which are usually few and far between if you done thinks right and started from healthy parents.

HF

[Vecten]

I sometimes wonder if we over stress the importance of humidity. When chicks hatch naturally under a broody hen there is no great humidity except the ambient humidity. When chicks hatch in some areas, North Africa in particular, humidity is virtually zero yet they still manage to breed chickens naturally. Chickens and eggs get trampled on in confined space under a broody hen yet still manage to hatch and survive. A broody hen has a constant temperature, she doesn't drop her body temperature by 10 degrees every week for 4 weeks after hatching.

I know that we are hoping to create the best possible conditions for our eggs to hatch but sometimes I wonder if we are just overdoing it a little.

[Helenaj]

Well everyone, I left them completely alone and have 6 beautiful chicks this morning - 5 Australorps and one Heinz 57. I'm more excited about the mixed breed chick as it's father could be either a Welsumer or Buff Orpington - only time will tell. I think for future batches I'll either split the eggs between the two incys or get a bigger one - which may not be a good idea as I'll end up filling it up. Thanks again for all of your good advice.

[hillfooter]

Excellent good result!  Is the last x breed still in the frame or is it now unlikely to hatch?
HF

[Helenaj]

I've waited until today with the other xbreed egg, but nothing. I had doubts on its fertility on candling, but since it was a Marans egg it was difficult to see into it as it was too dark. I've christened the little xbreed Paul (it's probably male!) in honour of my stepson as they both had their birthdays on the same day. If it turns out to be female, it'll be Paula!

[bantam novice]

Congratulations Helenaj 
Now how about some pics?

[Helenaj]

I'm away for a few days, so will try and sort some out later in the week. Hubby is really flustered as he is left to hold the fort with 17 chicks, 30 hens, two terriers and one incy to look after - I've had to write him a checklist!