[FCG]

I put the Fruit trees and fruit bushes i got from lidl in today - Apple + Pear trees, blackberry, redberry & 2x gooseberry bushes. I put in an entire compost bag of organic material and two large ex-growbags of nutrient packed soil. Oh and generous helpings of fresh compost. If that doesn't give them a boost i don't know what will. Only problem is the lot of them are right next to a fir hedge (< 2ft) but they are in the sunspot in my garden, so they should bear me great stuff.

Anyway, enough warbling on. What advice do you have on fruit bushes and fruit trees that you can give me specifically for these things? The apple is a Jonagold and the pear Burre Hardy. I hope these will pollinate each other? If not there are a few crab apples around here and one that has sweet red apples. Plus what special treatments and nutrients should i give these trees and bushes? Basically, any special tips & tricks you have would be greatly appreciated.

[Trillium]

For the first 2 years I wouldn't prune the fruit trees as they're setting up roots and can't handle pruning yet with their minimal leaf systems. On year 3 I'd be pruning them, but never more than 25% of the tree per year or its too much stress. And around the trees, if possible, plant some white (alsike) clover as mulch.
But, early every spring I'd highly recommend a lime & sulphur spray over all the bark before the buds start showing. This will smother many overwintering pests. True, it will also smother some good bugs, but the bad normally outnumber the good. It should also help minimizes certain diseases as well. It's an organic treatment and you'd mix the 2 things yourself and spray. And check all branches for problems.
The blackberries will need a very solid stake system so get that in place by spring and start training them. Very little bothers them.
By redberry I assume you mean recurrant? They love good soil, same with gooseberries and also leave them until their 2nd year before pruning.

For the lot, you should spring 'mulch' with loads of rotted manure and a bit of lime to counteract the manure's acidity, and give them loads of water the first year or so unless you get very wet springs and summers. Until those roots really take hold, they can quickly die from thirst.

[FCG]

Lots of excellent advice there Trillium, thanks. Would you advise for or against 'espalier' growing with the apple? It's next to a hedge... so it'll probably benefit i think? Thanks again though.

and give them loads of water the first year or so unless you get very wet springs and summers. Until those roots really take hold, they can quickly die from thirst.

Oh we never have any of those here in Britain

[Trillium]

The UK has had a few very dry summers and I recall relatives in Scotland complaining about water shortages one year, so it's possible. I'm getting lots of snow right now which is really strange for my area so anything is possible.

As for espaliering, the tree needs to be a certain dwarf type to do well as this, but you could try with any dwarf tree if you're determined. You'll need to set in the sturdy stakes now which will be the framework before the tree roots start spreading and could be damaged.

Whichever way you decide to grow the trees, the hedges will constantly steal nutrients from the tree area so always be diligent about feeding the fruit trees each year.

[FCG]

I agree with you about the hedges.. we used to have them on both sides untill one tree in the hedge died. It's been a bit of a struggle to grow stuff in the past. In the particular bit where they have been planted grass won't grow - it's dry. I've set up all the rainwater off the small shed roof to flow into this area now with good results. Only problem is like you say the poor quality of some of the soil there - hopefully negated with 2-3m3 organic material dug in & 2 ex-growbags for mulch. Should all this extra nutrients help? ALso - i can't find any gardening lime to add to the soil... would you say this is a negative factor with all that material in?

I think my apple is on dwarf root stock - would this work?

[Trillium]

Definitely throw in everything hummusy you can find: old grow bags, shredded leaves, manure, compost, chopped straw, etc. Depleted soil can never get enough which is what your problem is. Also add, if you have it, handfuls of bone meal, blood meal and a lot of old manure. Lime isn't really necessary if the soil is so depleted and the manure is old. Dig the lot in and over as deeply as you can before planting (and dig out any large rocks, etc). You'll find that watering this spot will become easier now but don't let up - those hedges are still there. And good idea to divert rainwater to this spot. Just keep watch that the tree area doesn't get overly swampy in wet years. Water can kill as easily as dryness.

Any dwarf rootstock can be 'convinced' to espalier. Just get the framework in now before the roots start spreading. Good luck.

[Sideways]

Is now a good time to plant fruit trees? How about waiting until Spring?

I was thinking of planting a fruit tree myself.

[Bodger]

On the fruit trees you will see a mark where the variety has been grafted onto the root stock. When you plant the trees make sure that the soil comes well below the graft.

Keep the area around the trees free of competing vegetation, either by the use of mulch as has already memtioned or by the use of herbicide.

[londongardener]

Is now a good time to plant fruit trees? How about waiting until Spring?

I was thinking of planting a fruit tree myself.

Now is good, unless the ground is frozen.  I think winter generally is good for fruits - unless the ground is frozen.

[londongardener]

The UK has had a few very dry summers and I recall relatives in Scotland complaining about water shortages one year,

I can believe that about England but Scotland having a water shortage???

[CHRISDONOHUE]

Most suppliers recommend that you plant directly in the soil without adding boosters initially.   The main problem for a newly-planted fruit tree is rotting because it is too wet and the roots are still within the peat or, at the other extreme, becoming too dry because the peat dries out before the roots get contact with the soil.

The most important thing I have found is to keep a metre around the tree with nothing growing in it and to mulch the tree in this area.   I find carpet tiles are ideal.   18 inch (50cm) tiles 4 around a tree is ideal.   You can feed it later under the carpet tiles.

[FCG]

On the fruit trees you will see a mark where the variety has been grafted onto the root stock. When you plant the trees make sure that the soil comes well below the graft.

Keep the area around the trees free of competing vegetation, either by the use of mulch as has already memtioned or by the use of herbicide.

Thanks for that one - i had forgotten about the joint.

Chris when you say 'boosters' what exactly does that refer to?

[CHRISDONOHUE]

By boosters, I mean compost, manure, additional feeding material.   The reason why these are not recommended initially is that they may break down in the soil leaving a pocket where water can collect (rot) or which prevents roots emerging from the peat ball from contact with soil (dry out.)   It is extremely important for the roots to go from the rootball into the surrounding soil as in dry weather the peat can quickly dry out and either kill the tree or stunt its growth.   Where you see a tree which has made virtually no growth in 1-2 years, it is usually because the roots are still within the peat rootball.    Although it takes considerable courage to do so, it is really best to knock off a lot of the peat so that the roots meet the soil when first planted.

[FCG]

No worries there then! I dunked the roots in water first and virtually all the peat around them fell off!

[paintedlady]

Some information about your  Jonagold and Beurre hardy

Click on the suitable pollination partners link at the bottom of the pages for more information