[brucesgirl]

Does green manure replace the need to use animal manure, for instance in a brassica bed??

[WG.]

Do we have any vegan gardeners on the forum?   They'd say yes.  Personally, I'd import fertility by using cow/horse manure

[Aidy]

The other problem with green manure is knowing what type to use for each bed. As WG says stick to tried and tested hores apples, and cow pies.

[DD.]

The other problem with green manure is knowing what type to use for each bed. As WG says stick to tried and tested hores apples, and cow pies.

Have you missed out a 'w' or an 's' there Aidy?

[Redwellies]

I have a neighbouring allotmenter that never brings in manure, purely grows certain items for putting straight back into the ground.   And I must say the plot is a very healthy one.  Their broad beans when finished are cut and placed inbetween the rows of their potatoes to break down naturaly.  Copius amounts of endive grown for digging back into the ground and can  also picked as a salad leaf.  As we are on the coast they have a bin of seaweed tea, aswell as comfrey and nettle for furtilizing along the way. does smell like silige, mind so does mine at this time of year I feed with my comfrey  and nettle tea, havent have a decent storm to chuck up some seaweed yet.  Hope this is usefull.

[Sven The Swede]

Does green manure replace the need to use animal manure, for instance in a brassica bed??

If you have empty beds that you are not ready to plant or when over winter most off your beds are empty, a green manure will make temporary cover and help to keep the area free of weeds. They are fast growning crops which are left in the ground for six weeks to a year,depending on the type of plant used. You cut them down young and dug into the soil, adding fertility and improving soil structure. Some green manures, such as buckwheat and italian ryegrass have root systems which will break up heavy ground.

I will be using Grazing rye and Italian ryegrass. They are the best for overwintering and can take to most soil. and they are hardy annuals. They need a couple of months to rot down and can resprout. Remember to cut it down when you need the ground and to dig in. It will take a bit of effort to dig them up and into your ground as they have tough fibrous roots, but it will be worth it in the end. Hope this helps

[Anonymous]

Please also try the Search button at the top of this page since I recall seeing earlier postings on this subject.  Fill in the search fields as described but do post again if you can't find the answers you need (or even if you just feel like posting again   )

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[Aidy]

ooppppss  :oops:  I really cant imagine what I was thinking off.

[Sven The Swede]

Just one word of warning about green manure in particular grazing rye it releases compounds that can inhibit germination. Does not mean it will it was ok for me this year. But to avoid this after the green manure best to follow by a transplanted crop, or one that started as sets or tubers. Alternatively, allow at least a month between digging in the green manure and sowing seeds.

[brucesgirl]

Thanks all. I will give it a go in the potato bed when they come up in the autumn, and then see what happens in the spring as I will then put the brassicas in as seedlings. The digging in doesn't bother me, as I have just dug the whole plot over to take out the weed and bramble roots that have been there for 20 years, so it will be a doddle just digging- in

[Anonymous]

I'm more of a minimum-dig man meself.  If I can't grow anything edible in the available time, I'd be tempted to grow a leguminous cover crop.  Rake it off for compost so that only the roots are left as a 'green' manure.  Winter tares are very suitable but have a current experiment running using lentils after seeing the suggestion on this site.

Edible catch crops : Coriander or fenugreek.  Fenugreek has the great virtues of speedy growth + being killed by the first decent frost so nothing to clear up.  I sow it on top of my August-planted garlic to suppress late weed growth.

[noshed]

I agree with WG. I grew field beans last winter they were good at keeping the weeds down and they composted well and the roots were easy to dig in but you might as well grow broad beans.
The hungarian grazing rye was a pain to dig in so I'd rather grow something edible.

[Zippy]

A few words on veganic gardening, compared to importing animal manures in my experience as just such a gardener:

Veganic gardening is not a closed circle as you might think. Things are brought in to add to the soil such as seaweed, anything that will compost from outside, and of course green manures. We bend the rules a little in that we bring in droppings from our pet rabbit - but we know where he's been and what he's eaten!

My main reasons for not using manures is that they are heavy to lift into buckets, into and then out of the car and then onto the plot. Why  look for extra work when there is enough on an allotment to do?

You dont have to waste time and petrol looking for a farm in the middle of nowhere who has offered a load on Freecycle but doesnt give very good directions and then isnt in when you get there - personal experience!

A whole bed of green manure seeds fits in your pocket and if you grow broad beans in late autumn, you can eat the beans in spring before you knock the green manure down or compost it.

It doesnt use livestock, which may pass on growth hormones, antibiotics etc, etc to the food chain through their manures. As I say - I know where my rabbit has been!

That's not to say if a horse went by and dropped a free load I wouldnt be tempted to rush out with a shovel, so I'm no purist!

Any other vegan growers out there who may have a view?

This October/November, I have been sowing Broad Beans with a view to green manuring and an early crop of beans.  I also use alfalfa if I have empty plots early on in the year.  Much easier work than $hit $hovelling!