Allotment Gardening Advice Help Chat
Chatting => Equipment Shed => Topic started by: Wavertree Red on August 06, 2013, 17:13
-
Sorry about the picture quality, its the only one the seller had.
I'm looking to bid on this 10x6 greenhouse. I'm aware it's a tedious job dismantling and reconstructing one but this looks ideal for my plot. Also I'll need to construct a concrete/block base for it. What are the poles in between the roof panes? They look like support that aren't attached to anything. What would you be prepared to bid up to for similar? :). Cheers
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p564/Wavertree/769b2de28bc2630158a009c7579857b4.jpg) (http://s1156.photobucket.com/user/Wavertree/media/769b2de28bc2630158a009c7579857b4.jpg.html)
-
The poles are probably to tie strings to that would support tomatoes and cucumbers in its past.
The greenhouse people have a new aluminium 10 x 6 for £478.
Considering the amount of work involved in the move and the fact that you would have to replace most of the bolts, some would need to be drilled out. Also you would need all new glasing springs let alone any glass you would break I'd not go over £50.00
This is £478 brand new.
(http://www.greenhousepeople.co.uk/images/products/medium/simplicity-shugborough-6x10.jpg)
-
He may have added extra bracing if it's in a windy place, or crop bars as Bob says ;)
That size is going between £70 - £100 around here ;)
-
Thanks Bob. Yeah a bag of bolts and springs are only a few quid so no problem there. Plus I can get panes of glass for £1 each. I can't justify a £478 outlay for an allotment greenhouse. I reckon it might go for around £70 as 8x6's usually go for around 50ish. Hmmm, think I'll bid.
Just saw your post MoS, agreed.
-
Mos has more experience than me. Kent is the garden of England. I'd go with her opinion.
Other people on here that have done this say. Take loads of pictures before you dismantle it as it helps you remantile it properly. Put up some pics of when its fully restored.
The new price was a comparison price not a suggestion.
-
Mos has more experience than me. Kent is the garden of England. I'd go with her opinion.
Other people on here that have done this say. Take loads of pictures before you dismantle it as it helps you remantile it properly. Put up some pics of when its fully restored.
The new price was a comparison price not a suggestion.
Let you know how the bidding goes. Thanks.
-
Snagged it, £52.46 :). Fun starts next week.
-
Snagged it, £52.46 :) . Fun starts next week.
Well done. Remember to take photos of every frame to help you rebuild it. Also use a felt pen to put numbers on the bars where they join together.
Good luck with it,
we will love to hear how it all proceds.
-
:) Well done! We managed to get one 8' x 6' for £60. We took lots of pics before dismantling it. We did break a few panes whilst taking it apart but we do have some poly plasticky sheets that can be cut to size. We haven't got round to erecting it yet, but Plotfather has made the base. Hopefully next week we will have time to put it together. I can't promise that the local air won't turn a shade of blue :(
-
Snagged it, £52.46 :). Fun starts next week.
Lucky you - a bargain price ;)
-
Well it looked like too much of a bargain. The seller cancelled the sale AFTER I'd paid for it citing he meant to just have a Buy it Now price rather than an auction. I cancelled the payment. He was obviously unhappy with the final price. Idiot. Bad feedback on its way >:(.
-
Oh that's just norty,bet you're fedup.
-
:mad: What a let down. Have another go if the opportunity arises. Not everyone plays unfairly.
-
Well it looked like too much of a bargain. The seller cancelled the sale AFTER I'd paid for it citing he meant to just have a Buy it Now price rather than an auction. I cancelled the payment. He was obviously unhappy with the final price. Idiot. Bad feedback on its way >:( .
Just thinking this over. What price did he want? Would you be prepared to pay that? You could do a deal. He won't get a lot more for it and he knows it now. But he does want to sell. Why not have a conversation.
-
Well it looked like too much of a bargain. The seller cancelled the sale AFTER I'd paid for it citing he meant to just have a Buy it Now price rather than an auction. I cancelled the payment. He was obviously unhappy with the final price. Idiot. Bad feedback on its way >:( .
Just thinking this over. What price did he want? Would you be prepared to pay that? You could do a deal. He won't get a lot more for it and he knows it now. But he does want to sell. Why not have a conversation.
I did ask what he wanted and he replied £125 no offers. I just laughed at him. I buy and sell a lot of things on the auction site and I've never had a cancellation post sale before. It was up to me to accept his cancellation request, I wasn't obliged to do so, but things may have got messy in the long run. I am disappointed as you don't get that many greenhouses 8x6 and above selling in the Liverpool area but Im confident of buying one before the cold weather sets in making dismantling one all the more difficult. Cheers Bob.
-
If you have his email offer him £85. No further offers. He knows he can't sell it on ebay and I doubt he can be bothered locally. Its worth that to you. One time offer, then walk away.
-
Agree's
-
I offered him £75, just in case he wants to haggle. Plus I offered cash on delivery to save on fees etc. He's not getting a penny more. :)
-
I offered him £75, just in case he wants to haggle. Plus I offered cash on delivery to save on fees etc. He's not getting a penny more. :)
Sound good, keep us up to speed please. (Cash on delivery?? I thought you were taking it down?)
-
I offered him £75, just in case he wants to haggle. Plus I offered cash on delivery to save on fees etc. He's not getting a penny more. :)
Sound good, keep us up to speed please. (Cash on delivery?? I thought you were taking it down?)
Cash in hand I should say. Will do.
-
Actually just bought this in the end. Robinsons 10x6, toughened glass, all panes intact, guttering, 2 auto vented windows, high eaves, RRP £1000+. £102 all in. Pick it up on Sunday. Didn't mind paying a little bit more as its a very good make. Steven's a happy man :).
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p564/Wavertree/9a64b8b1e1e0918e1ffc211146f2cc6c.jpg)
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p564/Wavertree/b83b1c8780a7af4b776bfc572095c0f9.jpg)
-
That's good - where's the green with envy smiley ;)
-
Good result that then WR :) Furthermore the "awkward one" still has his greenhouse to sell!
-
Thanks all.
Yes I'm glad I waited to be honest. He hasn't relisted it as yet. He'd get more for it if he emptied and cleaned it.
I'm happy with the high eaves on this model, saves me having to build a raised base. Don't dont whether to go with a poured concrete trench or sunken block for the base. I want one side gravelled for staging and pots etc and the other half just using the existing plot soil as a bed.
-
I would go for the sunken block on concrete :)
-
Very nice bargain. Wouldn't mind one of those myself
-
I would go for the sunken block on concrete :)
Do you think? It's very heavy with its thick frame and glass. I was hoping to get away with digging a trench, tamping down, couple of inches of fine hardcore/sand, laying large block with a mallet, back filling, more tamping and then waiting a week for any subsidence. We did the shed a similar way a few years ago and it hasnt moved. I know concrete is the way to go really just trying to avoid the expense and backache :). I worked out how much I'd need and it came to about 12 large bags of ready mix. Then the costs of mortar etc for the block work. Adds up.
-
What about blocks all around then a lintel accross both short ends. The difference in height on the long sides could be timber to match the lintel size. Screw the GH to the lintels. They won't move.
-
Can you get any railway sleepers to anchor it to , where did you get it from ,really good value .
-
Can you get any railway sleepers to anchor it to , where did you get it from ,really good value .
I can't get any free ones and I'd need 5-6 at £10-£20 each. Also not keen using old ones as possibility of chemicals leaching in to the soil. I'm a member of Freecycle, Freegle and Preloved so keeping my eye out for all things concrete.
Got it from ebay.
-
Well the first phase is complete. Two of dismantled it and moved it 30 miles without a single breakage or even a sheared bolt :). Some doing considering I had a tremendous hangover and we only had an estate car and a 4 foot trailer. Took us 5 hours. I like the fact it has no glass clips to speak of, just beading, meaning we could just attack it was the cordless drills.
Got it on site, spent another 5 hours giving it a much needed clean. Bought the concrete block yesterday and started to prepare and level the ground. Also managed to download the official assembly manual in case we get stuck.
Be a couple of weeks until we erect it but will post some pics when done.
-
Base is done after a ridiculous amount of hours getting it straight, level and square. Just need some final tamping down around the edges. Be a few weeks until its up due to other commitments, good thing really as gives it chance to settle and tweak any blocks. I can feel a cold pint or three coming on :).
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p564/Wavertree/66F62974-1449-47ED-B9CE-09B0E60E3EDA-7021-000004604A7D0AF7_zps91ecb379.jpg)
-
I'd be inclined to increase the vents from 2 to 4, if you can, and add a louvre lower down if it doesn't have one already. Otherwise force draught with open door will be your only method of cooling for much of the year (you'll still need that in a heatwave of course)
Some other random thoughts:
Bit of a slope to the end where the water butt will be
Bury a conduit / pipe under the blocks in case you want electricity / water inside later.
Measure the diagonals to make sure they are identical - glass won't fit otherwise!
Dig the soil before you put the greenhouse on - hard work digging it inside once compacted
-
Thanks for the tips Kristen. I wish we had electric electric at the plot. I was thinking of using gravity fed drippers, are they any good?
Yeah reading the manual it says don't drill it to the base until its complete so as to allow for manipulation of the glass. I may just loosely pin it once square then put the glass in. The frame is virtually built as I wanted to double check the base was the right fit.
Regarding humidity and condensation issues. I'm trying to keep costs down and my eyes nearly fell out at the new price of additional vents and/or louvres :ohmy:. Is there a such thing as an automatic door opener?
I'd advise anyone buying second hand to try and find the assembly manual online before you commit. After taking loads of pics and labelling items I was still scratching my head at times.
-
I can see it to the left of the photo and it looks pretty good to me.
----- Just something I did -----
I removed the glass in mine last spring and replaced it with twinwall polycarbonate. Just for safety. As I had tripped over in it twice and frightened myself. The twinwall let me do full size panels and so I got rid of lots of crossbars. Its not as good as glass but it does work. I needed extra spring clips to hold it in place. The panels came at the right width all I did was to cut the lengths.
Im not saying that you should do this but its worth having it in the back of your mind for later.
-
Polycarbonate has a reputation for blowing out in strong winds - the answer to which is usually to silicon it in, which then makes removal (if ever you needed to) much harder.
-
my eyes nearly fell out at the new price of additional vents and/or louvres
:( Was that a price inclusive of automatic openers? If so they could be retro fitted later when you win on the horses!! as that part is quite expensive, and just go for a pair of extra manual ones to start with.
With non automatic you could open in the morning / close at night, and let the others with automatic openers do the fine control. In winter two on auto, and the other two closed, will be fine. In mid summer fully opening the two manual vents at 6am, and closing them at 9pm will be fine - minimum night temperature will be 10C or better anyway.
Extra roof vents can be very hard to retro fit - on some brands they slide into the ridge bar, and thus you would have to remove the glazing to fit another one. Your brand may be easier than that.
If you have auto-vents might be worth checking whether they need winterising ... some brands require removal of the wax piston to prevent frost damage (it probably just reduces its lifespan), others can be left out 365.
-
Yeah reading the manual it says don't drill it to the base until its complete so as to allow for manipulation of the glass. I may just loosely pin it once square then put the glass in. The frame is virtually built as I wanted to double check the base was the right fit.
Good idea - trying to wield a drill vertically to drill through the base is very nerve-racking with the glass in place!
If you've got any "Waxoyl" coat the screws or bolts with it - makes it easier to drive them home and they should then outlive you! :)
You may not be bothered about water seeping under the bottom of the frame into the greenhouse, but you could apply a bead of mastic on top of the base before placing the frame on top - apart from sealing the gap it will take up minor "imperfections" too (I only thought of it after I'd installed my greenhouse, which has a concrete floor so shows up the quite considerable amount of water which finds its way in, and it took an awful lot of messing around trying to force mastic into the gaps afterwards. :nowink:)
-
Thanks very much for the hints and tips folks, appreciated.
Bob, I'm fairly accident prone as my girlfriend likes to point out but hopefully, being toughened glass, the most I'll end up with is a bump to the head rather than a cut :). Ive already barred myself from using large tools in there. If I break any I'd consider poly.
Kristen, the price of a new louvre was more than what I paid for the greenhouse and without an autovent, shocking. They can be retro fit so I'll see how it goes next year and buy one if needs be. I did think of a few of airbricks amongst the blocks but it'll only be a couple of inches above ground level so didn't run with it. I need to buy a replacement Bayliss tube as one of them is dead, only £12.
Jay, I like the mastic idea! I'll be doing that.
More pics when up.
-
the price of a new louvre was more than what I paid for the greenhouse and without an autovent
Blimey. Skip that then. Roof vents more important anyway.
There is probably a way to simulate a louvre. My thoughts are along the lines of fitting something at the North end of the greenhouse and substituting a pane of glass, low down, for something that can be opened. Hinged Trap-door in a sheet of marine ply, for example. There isn't any light coming in from the North ...
-
It's up - minus the door. No calamities, not much drama. I'm more than happy with it :-). It's bolted down with 12 fittings so shouldn't be going anywhere. Going to kit it out soon.
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p564/Wavertree/A03CF7F2-F55D-417B-B87E-554CF9F6F1B4-3046-00000328F28056E1_zps44e51712.jpg)
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p564/Wavertree/074DDA03-EE2D-4EEC-9BCA-76DCAE41BC1E-3046-00000328E68A78DF_zps35edb721.jpg)
We couldn't put the door on as we were missing one of these, see below. It's the 'bolt' that holds the door wheels in place and has a couple of rings that slot in the grooves. Does anyone know what they are called? They only sell the whole wheel kit but I only need one of these bolts. If I knew what they were called I could search for one.
(http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p564/Wavertree/D028B40B-186A-426F-A58D-E0D979B3C0DC-3046-00000328FB3B1352_zps9e6b243b.jpg)
-
Does anyone know what they are called?
Shank? Axle? Pin (as in cotter-pin)
Can't supplier provide one if it was shipped with the part missing?
-
Axle pin it is thanks. The greenhouse is 2nd hand and we must have lost it in transit. Seller only sells complete wheel kit - which is out if stock atm.
Cheers.
-
can you replace with the same size bolt and use a couple of nuts to lock it (leaving it slightly loose so it turns OK, depends how much space there is at the ends really) (or threaded studding with 2 nuts each end) - the grooves are for circlips to stop it falling out, but other than that its just an axle.
Grendel
-
could also use a clevis pin and one circlip - http://www.technifast.co.uk/documents/Page20ClevisPins.pdf
Grendel
-
Thanks. I've managed to source a few original pins and clips for a couple of pounds.