[Kleftiwallah]

My sprog would like a shed 10 foot by 10 foot. He has his eye on one just over four figures for nothing special (just a shed). I'm sure I can knock up a far more robust and secure job. Anyone out there care to have a bash at pricing the wood required for such a project (including the floor but without windows)?  Cheers, Tony.

[arugula]

What are you thinking of for the walls, Tony? Plain ply, slats etc..... Two layers with OSB (not waterproof) on the inside and something else external?

[Kleftiwallah]

He is thinking of a workshop to tinker with motorcycle bits so damproofing to hold off the tinworm and rust is a must.    Cheers,     Tony.

[grendel]

phone a local timber merchant and ask their advice, I would guess for a sturdy shed, use 2"x2" sawn softwood for the framing, featheredge for the walls, and 1/2" exterior grade ply sheeting for the roof panels, you will need 5 sheets for the roof, maybe 3/4" for the floor, some 3" square fence posts for the floor supports (to hold it off the ground (though mine has paving slab floors)) and some roofing felt, alternatively some metal roofing sheet for the roof.
another point is if you are going to insulate it and panel inside to make it cosy in the winter. this will all add to the costs.
you can make a shed from recycled wood - especially if you can catch a building site thats taking down is hoardings, or I once made one from the boxes that extruded aluminium comes in for double glazing - 6m planks 3/4" thick and about 6" wide - I covered that shed with roofing felt, roof, walls the lot, the floor was two thicknesses laid at right angles, on 4" square bearers.
with my featheredge shed I built the 2"x2" frames on the ground, then raised them, clad them with the featheredge horizontal, and then built the roof frames, and installed the metal sheet roof panels.
so yes it can be done - and cheaper for a stronger result, dont ask me how much though, because a i cant remember and b it was a few years back now, so prices will have changed anyway.
Grendel

[arugula]

It sounds as though something like 3 x2 CLS for the framework with OSB walls clad with weatherboard would make a good solid structure for you. You could also have a layer of Xtratherm or Kingspan in between the wall layers. You'd need to make sure your door was a tight fit or dampness could get in that way...

[grendel]

a simple frost guard tubular heater would keep damp at bay - or simpler still a 60W lightbulb in an enclosed tin box at floor level, just keeping slight heat in there should keep the damp at bay.
Grendel