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Poultry and Pets => Poultry FAQs and other Information => Topic started by: hillfooter on September 28, 2010, 00:44

Title: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: hillfooter on September 28, 2010, 00:44
PART 1 Introduction
Winter is fast approaching and the nights are drawing in.  Aren’t you just dreading those cold dark evenings when you have to drag yourself away from your warm fire in front of the tele and pull on your heavy wet weather gear and traipse out into the freezing nightto lock up the chicken house :(.  Don’t you wish you had an automatic system to do the job for you and open it up in the morning too :wub:  Well you can buy a ready made one you can fit to your house but the snag is it’s going to cost you around £195 per house (Forsham Cottage Arks price for the Gizmo with a timer).  However you can make your own for just a fraction of this cost and in this thread I’m going to show you how.

In this first post I’ll describe the design and what type of house and situation it’s suitable for and the skills and tools you’ll need to build it.

Because I want to make the implementation as simple as possible for the layman with no electronics knowledge or detailed understanding of electrics, I’m going for a design that can be made from pre-assembled parts you can easily buy online.  All you are going to need to do is connect them together and fit them to your house.   Because of these requirements the electrics are going to be powered by plug top DC power supplies (PSUs) which are going to require the availability of an indoor double mains socket as they aren’t intended or safe to use outdoors.  A dry garage or outbuilding with an existing power socket for example is fine.  This needs to be within a reasonable distance (say no more than 30mtrs) away from your chicken house.  Since the only cables you will be running outside will be carrying a 12V Dc voltage there’s no electrical safety issue.  However if you have to install such a mains supply that is something only a professional electrician should do and  is beyond the scope of this thread.  

Your chicken house should have a traditional shutter style vertically dropping pophole door .  The design I’m going to describe will not work with a side sliding or hinged door in common with the commercial one and if you have such a house you will need to convert it to a vertical shutter pop hole to use any simple automatic controller.

The tools you are going to need are :- a tenon saw, electric drill and drill bits, a posidrive and flat screw driver for woodscrews an an electricians small flat screwdriver for wiring terminal blocks, wire cutters (snips) and pliers bull nose and small electrical pliers, tape measure.  A electrical multimeter  will be required to identify the +positive and –negative voltage wire from the PSU.  If you don’t have one, or can’t borrow one,  you can take your PSU to any electrician who can easily do this for you and for such a trivial task shouldn’t charge you.  More on this later.

The system consists of two parts which are physically separate as follows.

1   The electrical controller – this supplies the power for the opener and generates the signal to open or close the door.  This is mounted adjacent to the mains socket indoors and consists of two plug top power supplies, the sort which are commonly used to power small electronic devices  in place of batteries, and a mains programmable timer the sort sold in IKEA or Supermarkets for operating domestic lamps etc.

2   The door actuator which is mounted on the house and is based on an electric car aerial which when the antenna is raised closes the door and when retracted opens it.  A cord attached to the antenna runs over pulleys and attaches to the door providing the linkage.  The pulleys also lower the gearing and increases the pull force from the aerial so that it can lift even a relatively heavy door like my Forsham Lenhams.  The commercial one uses a small DC motor and would require such a door to be replaced by a lightweight aluminium one but my aerial design is capable of operating most doors without replacing them.  You will have to ensure they run freely though and fall without jamming.  A little sandpapering and rubbing with a wax candle usually does the trick if they don’t. (http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_7977.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_7967.jpg)
 
One controller can power several actuators if you have more than one house.
I’ll describe the parts you need their approximate cost and where to get them in the next post.

Bye for now.
HF
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: Bantymad on September 28, 2010, 07:35
This is great HF, am going to print off and file it. Many thanks.
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: joyfull on September 28, 2010, 07:39
thanks for doing that HF, I won't make one as I get up before my chickens but this will be handy for those who do like a lie in  :)
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: Curlytop on September 28, 2010, 08:52
Thanks HF that is great
I have printed it and will give it to my OH after his dinner tonight  ;)
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: girliesx4 on September 28, 2010, 13:27
 :D You are a star - have just been looking into the cost  :ohmy: as i leave home when still dark and return after dark - had resigned myself to chilly girls so thank you - cannot wait for the next installment
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: bantam novice on September 28, 2010, 13:32
Wow HF,  that's brilliant!  :)  cheers!
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: henamoured on September 28, 2010, 21:56
This is great - just written about it in the original topic!
Just one question please - what is an actuator? Is it the actual motor to lift the door? Will this be connected physically or is it operated wirelessly?
Thanks
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: hillfooter on September 28, 2010, 22:54
This is great - just written about it in the original topic!
Just one question please - what is an actuator? Is it the actual motor to lift the door? Will this be connected physically or is it operated wirelessly?
Thanks

Sorry I used "actuator", a technical term for " a mechanical device for moving or controlling a mechanism" (Wikipedia).  It's the motor or electric aerial in this case.

HF
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: henamoured on September 28, 2010, 23:46
Thanks :)
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: hillfooter on September 30, 2010, 08:42
Part 2 - Pophole Controller – Parts list for part (a) - Electrical controller.

In this post I’m going to list the parts we will need to buy (not counting consumables) however I’d just caution that you read through all these posts (and subsequent ones) before you go and spend your hard eared cash.  You need to be confident you can fit them to your house before you splash out.   Sorry this is going to be a large post so I’ll split it into two covering the two parts of the design.

1   Electrical Controller

2 off 12Vdc regulated plug top power supply.  Power rating 2 Amps (25Watts) minimum.

1 off digitally programmable mains timer. – for plugging into the  timer.  If it mechanically won’t fit (interferes with the programming buttons) you may need a short mains extender which will plug into the timer.

1 off 3pole screw terminal strip.  Ie a strip with at least 3 three screw terminals (poles)

Mains cable 1.5sqmm 5A twin & earth as used on lighting circuits is suitable.  The length will depend on how far your mains socket is away from the house.  Scrap `reclaimed mains cable is OK for this application as it will only be carrying 12V at about 500mA current.

Sourcing
12Vdc regulated power supply – many suitable units are available on ebay some which are advertised for CCTV applications however you don’t want the dc adapter types with multiple output voltages and connectors or units intended for battery charger applications.  You can either use the plug top type units which are enclosed in a moulded box with the usual three mains pins for plugging directly into a mains socket or you can get a “rat in a snake” type PSU often used for pc laptops with a mains lead and dc lead.  Often the latter can be obtained used very cheaply as they are ex laptop units.  For example LINK (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110592077489) which is an ideal high spec device with high output current and has fully protected outputs for £10 including postage.  It doesn’t have an output connector but marked output wires which is ideal for this application as you don’t need a connector because we’ll be using the bare wires,  Also the wires are identified so avoiding the need to check them with a meter.  If you can get such a PSU like this cheaply go for it.  Although it should be 12V nominally any regulated supply from 11 to 14Volts at 2Amps will do.

Here’s another suitable ebay unit LINK (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CCTV-12Vdc-2A-Line-Regulated-Power-Supply-PSU-/360303946147?pt=UK_CCTV&hash=item53e3c9e9a3) but not so well spec’d.
The above are circa £10 including postage
See pictures

Although I’ve said you need 2 of these 12V supplies in fact only 1 needs to be 2amps and the other could be a cheaper lower current unit, a minimum of 100ma is all that is required.  A typical lower current plug top unit would be circa £5

For the more technically minded the main 12V supply to the aerial could be provided by a car battery with an attached battery charger if you happen to have these available for free.

Digitally programmable mains timer – normal domestic types are suitable these are available on ebay, IKEA or from most supermarkets.  Prices range from circa £5 to £9 depending on source.  Most of these have far more features than we need such as random switching and different programmes each day but this doesn’t effect price.  You need to only set up 1 programme with an ON period during the hours of darkness when you need the door shut.  Instructions on using these are included with them just remember to programme on at dusk and off at dawn EVERY DAY of the week.  I’ve said a digital timer but a 24hr mechanical one is also suitable though less accurate over time.  This is an example of a couple of suitable ones

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8463.jpg)

LINK (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/7-DAY-ELECTRONIC-PLUG-IN-TIMER_W0QQitemZ170540684086QQcategoryZ0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m506QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DNGRI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D8%26pmod%3D260434149159%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5327748913381070692) and another LINK (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/electrical-7-day-digital-plug-in-timer_W0QQitemZ320596215691QQcategoryZ0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m506QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DNGRI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D8%26pmod%3D260434149159%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5327691648582113077)

Terminal strip is available from any DIY store, www.screwfix.com or www.rapidonline.com.  5A small terminals are suitable electrically but i’d suggest you get the more chunky 10/13A ones which are easier mechanically to handle and terminate.

Large crocodile clip the type used on battery chargers available from Rapidonline .com (they do a cheap 80p ish one or you can use one sold as an electric fence accessory from farm shops or equine suppliers (£2 ish.)  Fully shrouded ones are best but more expensive.
 
Mains cable If you need to buy mains cable any DIY store or on line from  www.screwfix.com  www.rapidonline.com  or ebay .  £16.50 + delivery from screwfix for 50mtrs

In the next post I'll cover the door actuator (aerial) parts.
Bye for now.
HF
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: hillfooter on September 30, 2010, 08:54
Part 2   Parts list part (b) - The door actuator

1 off Electric car radio aerial

1 off domestic indoor drier pulley set.  We will need a double pulley at the top fixed to the house and a single pulley at the bottom fixed to the door for a three loop system as illustrated in the first post.  These are  available as a set .

Length of 1 ¼ inch diameter waste pipe. The exact length will depend upon the physical size and arrangement of how you mount the aerial.  The antenna of the aerial runs in this and is used to protect the extended antenna.  In some implementations it may not be required.  We’ll cover these issues in the construction posts.

3 mm to5mm diameter cord.  This is for linking the antenna to the door and runs over the pulleys.  The exact length depends on the physical arrangement.  The cord must not be too elastic and can be lower dia but the closer to 5mm dia the less likely it will be to come off the pulley wheel and jam.

1 off 3pole screw terminal strip as above post.

Sourcing

Electric car radio aerial   -  This is the most tricky item to get as we  need to get one which meets the following specification.  Length of antenna extension needs to be 900mm to 1metre for a three loop pulley system as shown.  A shorter extending antenna 600mm to 900mm can be used with a two loop pulley system in which case only a single wheel pulley is needed for the top fixed pulley.  I’ll cover this point in the construction but I’d encourage you to use a triple loop if possible.  
There are two types of aerial available the most common type used on modern cars has three electrical wires, two for the OV and 12V power and one for an up/ down signal.  Normally the radio operates the signal.  It is usually described as a universal replacement aerial.  This is the type we need.   The other type is sometimes referred to as a “switch operated” or “switch type” aerial and is sometimes fitted to older cars and is operated by an external switch on the dash board.  We don’t want this type.  The aerial must have an inbuilt limit switch such that the motor is switched off when the antenna is fully extended or fully retracted.  Most quality aerials should have this feature though I’ve come across cheaper ones which don’t.   If you buy on ebay look for a universal replacement type and note that not all sellers cover these points in their advert and simply state the car models they are suitable for.  

You may have to ask the seller a question covering the points we are uncertain about.  The question you need to ask is
 “Please confirm this aerial has a limit switch which automatically cuts off the power when it reaches the end of its travel or stalls due to a jam. Also does it operate off a 12v signal from the radio and doesn't need a switch or relay. This is not a automobile application.Thanks”.  

AUTOLEADS ELECTRIC CAR AERIAL RMA853 I am told by a supplier meets these requirements.  They are a little more expensive at £20 - £22 plus postage on ebay though there are other cheaper suppliers whose unit looks to be the same in the photo but you'd need to check as on ebay they tend to put any old photo on "for illustration purposes" and the actual one they supply is different.  

Also passion_automotive on ebay have one for circa £20 they say meets this spec. LINK (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300422039205&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123)

Connect2 CT27UV08 also is claimed to meet this spec. and is available for circa £20 from seysel2002 on ebay LINK (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170537486162&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123)

If you come across others let me know.

All aerials come with a number of fitting accessories and we aren’t going to need these so don’t worry about this aspect of the spec.  The original type of aerial I used was a Harada MZ-21 which has a 920 mm extension and all the features I needed but the buyer I got this from is now selling a cheaper unit which isn’t suitable.(avoid the Radioworld one).  Expect to pay fom £20 to £25 for a reasonable one.  Second hand ones maybe ok but make sure they are the modern type and don’t have a manual switch or relay. (there are ways to get round this but I’m not going to cover this fix to avoid confusion)

Pulley Set.   These are available on ebay from echoengineer see LINK (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SET-SCREW-PULLEYS-SINGLE-DOUBLE-3-99-FREEPOST-/220594537704?pt=UK_Laundry&hash=item335c7584e8)
These cost £3.99 including postage.

Cord.  I used 3mm cord from

ebay surplussupplier LINK (http://shttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/50ft-utility-rope-15m-purlon-camping-cord-black-3mm-/380063370254?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item587d8acc0e)
he also supplies 5mm cord but 3mm works OK.£3.20 including postage.  There's black or green available.

Other consumables   We are going to need some screws and small pieces of wood which I’ll cover as we go through the construction and will depend on the physical arrangements of the house.

Total cost of parts should be around £40 to £55 depending on what you buy or can get for free.

Well that’s all for now in the next post we can talk about the construction aspects.
HF
Title: How to make a simple pophole opener / closer
Post by: Fisherman on October 02, 2010, 11:16
For some reason I am unable to reply on Hillfooters thread on making a pophole opener.

Anyway Hillfooter if you happen to read this I have a question: -

I assume that the timmer is set to open at say 7.00AM and close at 7.00PM at this time of year. Does the timmer need to be adjusted as the length of daylight hours changes?

Could the system be improved by including a light sensor so the pophole opened when the light sensor sensed daylight but not before a set time say 7.00AM? The pophole could also close when the light sensor sensed it going dark in the evening? A sensor could be used to both open and close the pophole but opening too early in summer would be a problem due to early morning predators hence the reason for the using a timmer as well as a sensor.

Just a thought.
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: joyfull on October 02, 2010, 15:41
not sure why you couldn't reply on this thread, but I have merged your thread into it so that HF may see it  :)
Title: Re: How to make a simple pophole opener / closer
Post by: hillfooter on October 03, 2010, 05:50
For some reason I am unable to reply on Hillfooters thread on making a pophole opener.

Anyway Hillfooter if you happen to read this I have a question: -

I assume that the timmer is set to open at say 7.00AM and close at 7.00PM at this time of year. Does the timmer need to be adjusted as the length of daylight hours changes?

Could the system be improved by including a light sensor so the pophole opened when the light sensor sensed daylight but not before a set time say 7.00AM? The pophole could also close when the light sensor sensed it going dark in the evening? A sensor could be used to both open and close the pophole but opening too early in summer would be a problem due to early morning predators hence the reason for the using a timmer as well as a sensor.

Just a thought.

Yes you are absolutely right Fisherman and in fact my own system I use combines a light sensor with a time switch and is powered off a 12V leisure battery.  This is why it has the sophistication of turning the electric fence off when the pophole is shut to save battery power as mentioned by Joy.  However it's my own custom design using properly spec'd and quality electronic components and doesn use domestic sub assemblies.

However my background is in electronics and I've practiced as a professional engineer and designer in the computer industry for all my working life.  Not that you need that level of experience to design and build a light switch and electronically controlled unit.  My aim here was to describe a simple to put together unit which anyone could make from bought in subassemblies without requiring any electrical knowledge.  For a light operated system the actuator design would be identical but the controller would need to be more sophisticated.  

I've also used this simple system though which in fact I lashed together in 30 mins or so once when we were about to leave on holiday and as luck would have it the electronic one developed a fault which I didn't have time to fix.  With the purely timer based unit you would need to adjust the on off times through the year to allow for daylight hours.  In fact a timer is still useful with a light sensor system as has many people have found out their birds often don't roost until it gets quite dark and a system which locks them out at night is worst than useless so building in a delay at night fall is essentialand my own design OR's together a light based system with a timer such that in the morning the light sensor determines the opening time conditional on the timer being on too (AND logic function) and in the evening the timer determines the closing time conditional on the light system also saying it's dark.  If you also use a timer to delay opening in the morning then you end up with a purely timer controlled system so it reverts to a system with exactly the same function as the one I describe which is why actually a simple timer works well and the task of adjustment isn't too onerous.

With an electronic system used outdoors there's a lot of environmental issues to consider as well as electronic logic design issues.  You need to design for the temperature and humidity conditions you will encounter.  Weatherproof enclosures are required and the components you use need to be spec'd for the temperature range you will encounter.  A normal domestic digital programmable timer even if in a weatherproof enclosure will not work outdoors reliably in the extremes we see in the UK and I wouldn't trust a cheap outside light sensor as sold for security lights either for this application.  To design an electronic system which works well and reliably is a job for a much more knowledgable person than my target audience here and in any case unless you are forced to use battery power (as my field system) and therefore an electronics solution I'm not sure it's worth the effort.  If you have the skills and the inclination I'll leave it to you to work out how to design and include a light switch.

HF
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: Fisherman on October 03, 2010, 22:13
Hillfooter, I apologise in advance but I asked the question tongue in cheek re light sensor. I made an automatic pophole opener last winter and used a light sensor in the control circuit powered by 12 volt car batteries. Although expensive I used a small PLC to control the system including the control of the the coop lighting. As you probably know PLC's can be programmed using 7 day 24 hour time controls but with the added advantage of all the other logic functions. As the light sensors operate a bit erratic its better to programme the pophole to close say 30 minutes after the sensor detects the light level diminishing so as to ensure it only closes when fully dark.

PLC's are so much cheaper these days and will become a viable option in the near future although some knowledge of programming is required.

For anyone else reading this post a PLC is an abbreviation for Programmable Logic Controller which are used in industrial control system applications.

Not sure what the neighbours think though when they see me connecting a laptop up to the chicken coop :lol:

By the way Hillfooter your automatic pophole opener is a great innovative design.


  
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: hillfooter on October 05, 2010, 22:11
Just for Woverine Forsham Cottage arks have developed an autoomatic door opener / closer which will cope with ramps and sideways opening doors.  There's two models depending on travel required the bad news is they cost £180 or £200 depending on the model. :(  http://www.forshamcottagearks.com/gadgets-and-gizmos/pullit.htm

I'll be posting the 3rd installment of this project soon.  It's written but I want to illustrate it with some photos which I'm yet to take but hopefully in the next few days if I can also enrol on photobucket.  Something I've been resisting todate.

Also on the Forsham site is a useful article on winter preparations.

HF
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: hillfooter on October 07, 2010, 05:05
Part 3 -  Assembling the Electrical Controller

In this part we’re going to start the construction so things should be a little less technical and heavy once we start to put things together so get your screw drivers and wire cutters at the ready.  We’re going to start with the electrical controller which is pretty easy.  We’re going to just lash the bits together first in order to check things are working before we deploy them permanently.  This will help to pull things into focus and give you a pretty good feel for how the final system will work.

We’re going to need the parts we identified in Part 2a.  Two 12Vdc PSUs, the programmable timer and terminal blocks and in order to test it works we will need the aerial.  A mains flying socket lead will be useful too so we aren’t struggling about on the floor trying to use a wall double socket.  Find yourself a table or bench top where you can work undisturbed and layout the parts at a convenient working height.

I actually bought one of the “rat in a snake” supplies from badger2606 on ebay  http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110592077489
and I’d recommend you do to especially if you don’t want to have to use a multimeter  to check the polarity of the dc output.  This comes with ready stripped leads with the polarity identified and although it costs a little more it’s a good quality PSU fully protected with bags of power.  Get two.  Badger says it doesn’t have a mains plug fitted but the one I got actually had a European mains plug fitted so if you get this you can either cut it off and fit a UK mains plug, or use a euro to uk adaptor, or substitute a lead with an IEC plug one end (like on an electric kettle) and a UK plug on the other.  I have a box full of old mains leads so I was able to find one to use.  If you want to fit a UK plug there’s lots of web sites which will show you how, just google “how to fit a UK mains plug“ for a list of links.

  (http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8461.jpg)

If you don’t use one of these PSUs but have a plug top one it will be terminated in a tubular type of connector which you will need to cut off.  Obviously don’t power the unit up while you are stripping wire as you don’t want to risk damaging the electronics.  Leave about 10cms of cable still attached to the plug if you think you might want to reuse it in the future but it’s not needed for this project.  The dc lead from the PSU will likely be twin insulated wires laid up as a figure of 8 cable.  Split the two wires out into Y tails about 15cms long and cut one about 5cms shorter than the other as a precaution against them shorting together once the insulation is stripped.  Strip 2cms of insulation from each lead.  To strip insulation you can either use the wire cutters with the back towards the direction you are going to pull the insulation off.  Holding the wire in one hand and the cutters in the other carefully nick the insulation with the cutters, so as not to cut the wire just the insulation, pull the snips away with the stripped insulation leaving the bare wire.  A little practice might be needed to pull off the insulation cleanly without damaging the wire.  Another method is to nick the insulation with a craft knife and bend the wire sharply on the nick to get the insulation to split.  It will then be easier to pull off with you r finger nail or the back of the snips.  If the cable isn’t a twin figure of 8 but a round cable you will first need to strip the outer overall insulation and you should then find two wires underneath which you will need to strip as above.  Alternatively if it is a round cable you may find that it is laid up with a central conductor and an overall thin wire screen (like a coaxial cable).   If so separate the wire screen conductors from the central insulated wire and twist them tightly together so you form two wires.  Strip the end of the central wire which should be the +positive lead and the overall screen the –negative.

Cut off a 5 terminal strip of terminals.  The wire will be stranded so twist each of the two stripped stranded wires tightly (it maybe better to double the cut wire first if the strands are very thin so the screw bites better) and insert each wire in opposite outer most  terminals of the strip and tighten the screw to secure.   Plug in the PSU to a power socket and turn on the power.

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8460.jpg)
  
Setup the Multimeter with the red probe in the red V voltage terminal and the black probe in the OV or COM terminal and the rotary switch set to 20V in the Vdc section of the dial (maybe marked V with a straight line above it).  Switch on the MM and the LCD screen should show approx 00.0V.  Probe down on the two wires in the terminal block (you can make connection on the terminal screws).  The LCD should show 12.00 to 15.00V or thereabouts.  If the display shows minus 12 ie -12.00 reverse the probes so the minus sign is no longer displayed.  The wire connected to the RED probe will be the +positive terminal and that connected to the black the –negative terminal.  Mark the +positive wire with red PVC tape or a freezer label, or similar.  Do this for both power supplies marking the polarity of the wires.  If you are unsure how to use a multimeter there are several instruction videos on facebook and the like, just google “how to use a multimeter” for a list.  If you still don’t feel competent to do this ask a friendly electrician to do this for you.  If you take it into him he shouldn’t charge you much if anything to do this.

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8459.jpg)

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8456.jpg)

We are now going to connect the aerial and test it extends and retracts properly.  Power down the PSU’s and taking the –negative wires from both PSU’s twist them together and insert in one end of the 5 way terminal strip and secure the screw.  If the PSU’s are different current ratings take the higher one and screw its +positive wire into the opposite end of the 5 way terminal strip.  Screw the remaining +positive wire from the other PSU into the centre terminal of the strip.

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8464.jpg)
  
Examine the aerial cable it should consist of three wires, two of which will be for the +positive and –negative of the 12V supply and the other should be the up/down signal wire.  Check the aerial instructions to check which colour is which wire.  It will be something like brown (or red) for the +positive, black (or blue) for the negative and white (or yellow) for the signal. If the wires have crimped on bullet terminals,  ring or spade  terminals cut them off and strip the wires as for the PSUs.   Screw the +positive wire into the end +positive screw terminal on the 5way strip and the -negative into the –negative screw terminal.  Leave the signal wire unconnected.   Check the connections before turning on the PSUs .  Turn on the power the aerial should remain retracted.   Touch and hold the Signal wire on the central +positive terminal screw head and it should extend.  Hold it so that it is pointing away from you and extends freely without hitting anything.  When it reaches the top of its travel you may hear a number of clicks which is the clutch slipping before it switches off the motor.  Removing the signal wire (open circuiting it) or connecting it to the common –negative terminal  should cause the aerial to retract.  At both extremes of travel the aerial should switch off the motor drive, possibly after several clicks of the clutch.  Repeat a couple of times to ensure it extends and retracts reliably.

Assuming that went ok we are now ready to deploy the components into their final locations.  The only difference between the test set up and the final deployment is that the signal PSU will be plugged into a programmable timer to operate the door at the required times.  Programme the timer so the ON time is set for the door closing time, I suggest 30mins after dusk, and the OFF time at the time you want it to open in the morning.  Make sure if it’s a 7 day timer you select the everyday setting.  Also you need to set up the initial phasing so it starts from either open (OFF), or closed (ON), as you wish.  Usually if it’s a digital timer there’s a manual auto button which when pressed repeatedly cycles through -  On - Auto – Off - Auto.  If you want to start it with the door open cycle it to Off then press one more time to Auto, or if you want to start it with the door closed, cycle it to On and press once more to Auto.
  
It’s a good idea to set up a second programme which closes the door for a minute (whatever is the smallest period settable) say 2 or 3 mins before you want to permanently close it for the night.  This way the chickens are warned the door is closing and if they miss it or are unfortunate enough to get their tails trapped they get a second chance or are quickly released before the door closes finally for the night.  They soon get to know the procedure.  The door moves quite slowly typically taking around 8 seconds to close and 10secs to open for a three loop pulley and 2/3rds of this for a double loop system so the chances of being trapped are remote and it's never happened to mine.   You’d need a very slow chicken or a very dumb one to be trapped.  If you set the closing too close to sun down you could lock them out though so you might have to exeriment inutially with the optimum delay.

We won’t of course be locating the aerial close to the controller so we will be extending the three wires (+positive & -negative supply and signal) from the controller terminal strip using a twin and earth mains lighting type cable with a terminal strip each end.   Also I’d recommend mounting the terminal strip at the controller end on a small board (a short length of floor board is ideal) in which we would drill a hole to mount it on a nail in the wall of the garage or shed. The PSU components would be mounted or put out of the way as best fits the location.

See the photos.

In the final post we’ll cover the actuator installation on the house.

HF
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: joyfull on October 07, 2010, 08:01
thanks HF very indepth as per usual, however I would like to point out you never lash things together -

We’re going to just lash the bits together first in order to check things are working before we deploy them permanently.  This will help to pull things into focus and give you a pretty good feel for how the final system will work.

perhaps the term should be we're going to have a dry run and join the bits together ......

 :) xx

Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: hillfooter on November 19, 2010, 00:50
Sorry it's been a long time coming but I wanted to include some photos for ease of description and my camera has been playing up.  In fact I 've just bought a new one though I took the ones in the post with the old canon in it's working moments!

I was hoping to finish teh description in this post but as it's so long I'll cover final wiring and testing in section 6 in a further post.

Part 4 (a) Pop hole opener

In this part we’re going to cover fitting the aerial actuator and pulley system to the house which is going to need some basic woodworking skills, sawing and drilling. I’m going to describe how to fit this to a small ark type house like the Forsham Lenham.  It can be fitted to any house with a vertically dropping pophole though you may need to adapt the design to suit.  If you have a shed type of house without a vertical pophole you can buy a ready made door assembly on ebay

(http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Aardvark-joinery  

or http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Poultry-house-door-pop-hole-sliding-let-hatching-eggs-/260682765212?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Poultry&hash=item3cb1e7539c

are two such) which is easy to fit but here I’ll just describe fitting it to a Lenham and add a few ideas in my final post about dealing with adapting it to other house designs.
 In order to work safely and effectively it will be best to have some way of clamping the work pieces such as a bench and vice or a portable vice or if not available a G clamp.  
The tools you are going to need are an electric drill (battery operated preferably) with a 3mm drill bit and a 22mm and 32mm flat bit.  A Tenon or small cross saw , a no 2 pozidrive screw driver, a pair of bull nosed pliers and a pair of mole grips would be useful too.  We’re going to need some screws of various lengths depending on the wood sections we’ll be using but probably 25mm 8guage, 35mm 10 guage, 70mm 10guage would be a good selection.  A screw eyelet for fixing the cord to the door and a small spring washer and split ring for fixing the cord to the antenna.  The parts we will have to make are a clamp to hold the aerial, a couple of supports for the waste pipe.

Before you start you need to ensure the door drops freely under gravity without sticking.  If not you will need to remove it by unscrewing the runner guides and trimming the guides and door edges on which the door runs so that it runs smoothly.  If the door is wet, dry it first and give it a coat of water repellent paint such as Cuprinol Timbercare preservative.  Rub the running edges with a wax candle before refitting it to reduce friction.

Aerial Clamp

The aerial is fitted to the rear wall (opposite end to the pophole) and the antenna extends in the 32mm tube which runs under the roof ridge.
  
The aerial is held by a clamp we will make.
To make the clamp we will need a block of wood of approx 100mm square by a 50 – 70mm thick.  The diameter of the aerial tube I used was 22mm so assuming yours is the same, drill a 22mm diameter hole through the wood as accurately at right angles as possible, as shown in the below diagram.  Saw through the hole to form a two piece clamp.  Drill two clearance holes in the body of the clamp for fixing it to the house wall  and drill two clearance holes in the top part of the clamp to take the two clamping screws, as shown.
  
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8509.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/aerialclampb.jpg) clamp diagram

Here’s an alternative clamp you may find easier to make as there’s very little woodwork to do.  A block of wood with the metal strap usually provided with the aerial formed round a round metal tube (such as a copper water pipe) as a former.  Don’t use the aerial tube itself as a former as it’s aluminium and easily deformed.  Put a rubber cushion such as a small section of bicycle inner tube round the aerial tube to protect it in both designs.

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_7967.jpg) alternative clamp

Aerial Support Tube fixing

The antenna will extend inside the plastic waste pipe which is fixed under the roof eaves inside the house.  It will be supported by resting on two support brackets also made from a small block of wood as shown below. Note the notch cut in the bracket needs to be a snug fit for the pipe outer diameter (marked as 35mm on the diagram but adjust to suit the pipe you have)

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/Pipesupportbracket-1.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_7971.jpg) tube support
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_7974.jpg)

Attaching the cord to the Antenna

Next attach the cord to the antenna which is best done with the mast slightly extended which you can do as follows.  Twist the aerial copper conductors of the positive (12V) and up/down signal wires together .  Ensuring the leads from the PSU are separated from one another (use the terminal strip to ensure this if necessary) power up the PSU and touch the aerial (brown or red) positive 12V (and signal) wire to the positive PSU wire and the negative aerial wire OV (black) to the negative PSU wire momentary so the antenna raises 20cms or so.  Quickly remove one of the connections when the antenna is raised enough to allow you to get at the top section.  The antenna will stay at the length extended when the power is removed.
The best way I found to attach the cord is to use a spring anti-shake (split) washer that is of a diameter which allows the antenna top section to run through it but not the button on top of the mast.  Open the washer up by twisting the ends apart using a couple of pairs of pliers (a small mole grip is useful to hold one end securely and use a pair of pliers on the other end).  Attach a small split ring the sort you get on key rings through the washer and close up the gap with the pliers.  Tie the cord to the split pin and you are ready to fit the bits to the house.  Here’s a photo of Henrietta the helpful hen showing you what the attached cord looks like.

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8541.jpg) cord connection to antenna

Fitting the Aerial and tube to the house

Now using a flat drill bit, drill a 32mm or similar large hole in the house end walls, big enough to allow the aerial tube with its chrome nut to pass through.  The hole needs to be as high up on the eaves as possible to allow maximum door elevation while still allowing enough room to fit the clamp and tube inside the house.  Henrietta the helpful hen is showing you the correct position to drill the holes in the photos below.  The holes need to be in the same position on the front and rear walls so they are aligned as the tubing will connect them.
 
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8489.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_7977.jpg)

Next measure accurately the distance between the holes under the eaves and allowing 4mm or so for clearance cut the tubing to this length.  Now fix the two tubing support brackets in place inside the house underneath the holes using a couple of wood screws of suitable length, so that when the tubing is placed on the brackets the holes are roughly central on the inner bore of the tube.  Fit the tube in place.
Fit the lower part of the clamp on the outside rear wall of the house using longer screws which will extend through the wall and bite into the bracket support for added strength.  Again ensure that this is positioned so that when the aerial is fitted the antenna runs centrally through the tube.

We are now ready to thread the cord and fit the aerial clamp.  Using a thin garden cane insert it through the front of the house through the tube so it protrudes through the back wall.  Using sellotape or similar, tape the end of the pull cord to the cane and pull it through the tube out the front.   A second pair of hands are now useful to feed the aerial into the tube at the rear while the cord is pulled through the front.   Insert the aerial as far as it will go so that the clamp can be fitted around the tube.  Fit the upper part of the clamp and tighten down the screws but not too much that the tube is deformed (use the rubber to protect it).  If you have difficulty engaging the clamp screws because of the roof overhang unscrew the lower part of the clamp and fix to the aerial tube first and then screw it back on the rear wall.

Fitting the door pulleys

We can now fit the front pophole door pulleys and attach the cord to the door.  
It’s important to ensure that there is enough clearance between the pulleys to allow a lift which gives an opening of 250 to 300mm or so for the chickens to enter and leave easily.  This is why you need to mount the tube as high under the eaves as practical.  You can position the bottom pulley part way down the door so that it doesn’t constrain this distance too much.  If the aerial has more extention than is needed that’s ok as long as it doesn’t protrude through the front of the house.  Excess movement can be taken up by allowing the cord to go slack at the full extension of the antenna.  It’s important that that the top and bottom pulley are vertically aligned to give a nice straight pull and fall to prevent the door jamming.  Chocking the house legs with wedges  so the door is reasonably level and the pophole vertical maybe necessary if on unlevel ground like my houses are.   You should make your pulley mounting blocks of suitable dimensions so the top pulley is spaced off the  house wall and directly vertically above the bottom pulley see the diagrams and photos.

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/Pulletset.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/doorpulleydiagram.jpg)

Mount the double pulley on the house above the single pulley which is mounted on the door.

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_7965.jpg)

Thread the cord so it passes over the left side top pulley wheel and passes down the front of the lower pulley and the goes under the lower pulley wheel and returns up the back to the right hand side upper pulley wheel.  Over this wheel to the front and down to the door where it is tied to an eyelet ring screwed into the door besides the lower pulley . see photos and diagram.

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/Pulleycordthreasding.jpg)

Don’t worry about adjusting the cord length we’ll do that once we’re completed the wiring as a last task when we test the set up.
In the next post we’ll cover completing the wiring and testing.

Best wishes
HF


Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: hillfooter on November 20, 2010, 01:38
Part 5   Wiring the Aerial electrical connections panel and the cable to the Controller.

 In this part we’ll cover the final wiring up and testing.
First we need to wire up the aerial to a connection panel of some sort and I suggest that this should best be done using a small wooden panel such as an off-cut from a floorboard or similar.  I used a Perspex panel which I happened to have.  I used three small M8 bolts for the terminals and connected these as follows.  Reading from left to right,
 
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8478.jpg)

1.   the +ve 12V wire to the aerial (usually brown or red),  marked +12V DOWN in photo
2.   not connected, used for connecting the cable up/down wire and clipping the signal from the aerial to using a croc clip. Marked AUTO in photo
3.   the –ve wire from the aerial (usually black or blue cut off the ring tag if necessary), marked 0V UP in photo

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8479.jpg)

Terminate the up/down control wire from the aerial (usually white) with a crocodile clip and leave hanging for the moment.

Rather than using bolts on the terminal plate as I have done you can use a terminal strip but you need to physically separate the terminals so there no danger of shorting them with the croc clip.  If you do use terminal strips connect a 5cm or so loop of bare copper wire protruding from each terminal to allow the croc clip to be clipped to that terminal.
We can now connect the controller to the aerial terminal plate.
You should have the controller assembled and installed in a dry indoors/ outhouse location with the three wires +ve 12V power, -ve 0V power and Up/down control signal fixed in the terminal block. Don’t power it up yet and for initial testing don’t use the timer as we will simulate this by manually turning the signal PSU on and off.  Have both PSU’s plugged into a double socket but switched off.
Using a three core cable (mains lighting twin and earth cable is ideal) wire the corresponding terminals on the controller terminal strip to those on the aerial terminal plate.  See wiring diagram.

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/wiringdiagram2.jpg)

(NOTE we are only using wire which is intended for mains use we are NOT connecting to the mains.  Just thought I’d make that doubly clear!).  So now you should have the brown cable wire joining the +ve terminals and the blue cable wire connecting the –ve terminals and the bare copper wire connecting the up/down control signal to the centre AUTO terminal on the aerial terminal plate.  Double check these connections.

Testing that the antenna extends and retracts smoothly.
 
It’s best to have two people, one at the controller and one at the house to do this.
1.   At the controller turn on the power PSU (ie the one powering the +ve –ve wires) and leave the signal one off for the time being.)
2.   At the house check that the antenna extends fully.  If it doesn’t check you have the signal wire croc clip connected to the +VE DOWN terminal and double check your wiring.
3.   Now check the antenna retracts fully by unclipping the croc clip from the +ve terminal and clipping it to the –ve UP terminal. (Note as soon as you disconnect the croc clip the antenna will probably retract without needing to clip it to the –ve terminal as disconnecting the croc clip removes the power from the up/down signal.)
4.   Now we will check the AUTO operation.  At the controller turn on the signal PSU leaving the power one still switched on.  At the house clip the croc clip to the AUTO terminal.  Switching the signal PSU on and off should respectively extend and retract the antenna.  If it doesn’t check the wiring of the signal PSU.
5.   We now need to adjust the pull cord to the correct length.  Manually extend the antenna by clipping to the down terminal.  Pull out any excess slack cord through the pulleys to slightly tension it.  Tie the cord to the ring on the door so the door is just at the bottom of the travel you want in the closed position.  Now raise the door manually by clipping top the –ve UP terminal.  Check there’s enough head room for the birds to go in and out and that the door doesn’t foul against top pulley.  You might need to iterate this to get the best cord length.  Note it’s best to slightly have the cord in tension at the door closed position to avoid slack cord coming off the pulley wheels and trapping between a wheel and its cage.
6.   Now programme the timer according to its instructions.  If you have a digital timer I suggest you set two programmes.  The first should be ON when you want to close the door at night and OFF when you want to open it in the morning.  The second is just an added safety feature to untrap any chicken unfortunate enough to get trapped by the door closing.  It’s never happened with me so this is just optional but it’s not a bad idea.  This second one should come ON one minute after the first goes OFF and go OFF just one minute later.  This ensures any chicken trapped is released after a minute worst case.    Having set the timer, introduce it to the circuit to control the powering of the signal PSU.

Note to correctly phase the timer when you finally put it into operation some need to be set to the auto setting from the correct ON or OFF phase.  For example if it is set during the day when you want the door open ensure it is first set manually to OFF before setting AUTO on the timer or vice versa.

Congratulations you are now done.  Just dress the cable neatly out of the way so you’re not tripping over it by clipping it to a fence or running it over head on plant stakes.   Check it works as you expect the first couple of times and you can then enjoy a lie in and leave it to operate on its own.  If you need to operate the door manually when cleaning foe example you can move the croc clip to the appropriate OPEN or SHUT terminal.

If you have a 12V electric fence energiser you can power it from the +ve and –ve PSU wires. Run extra cable or put an intermediary terminal strip along the cable run at a convenient point to tap off these connections.

The design so far described doesn’t lock the door in the shut state but to prevent a fox lifting the door a simple mechanical shield can be made at the bottom of the door so it drops into an open slot which prevents a fox getting its nose under the door bottom to lift it and a similar arrangement can be put round the top pulley to prevent it being used as a ‘handle’ to raise the door.  A final post will cover variants and a more positive locking arrangement which can be simply made to prevent a fox lifting the door.

To prevent driving snow from freezing on the door and preventing its smooth operation it is best to arrange some shelter by adding a covered “porch” over the door.  Also always position the door pointing away from the prevailing weather to give as much shelter as possible.

You can add a simple flag to the door so it's easy to tell from a distance whether the door is open or closed. Here Polly the parrot flies when the door is open and roosts when shut.  Similarly a bicycle reflector can be used to tell in the dark from a distance with a torch.

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_7963.jpg)



Best wishes
HF
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: joyfull on November 21, 2010, 13:42
thanks HF for taking the time to do this  :)
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: billathome65 on January 05, 2011, 14:37
Was asking about an inexpensive system and this answers it to a T The coop im getting has a hinge door but easy enough to convert. We got a scrap yard near us so picking up an electric arial and wiring is not an issue.

Do you have more info on how this wiring is done

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8478.jpg)

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8479.jpg)

As this aint to clear to read

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/wiringdiagram2.jpg)

What is the box thing under the Arial motor with the yellow wire going in As I see it is coming out the back of the coop? 


Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: hillfooter on January 05, 2011, 18:47
Was asking about an inexpensive system and this answers it to a T The coop im getting has a hinge door but easy enough to convert. We got a scrap yard near us so picking up an electric arial and wiring is not an issue.

Do you have more info on how this wiring is done

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8478.jpg)

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8479.jpg)

As this aint to clear to read

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/wiringdiagram2.jpg)

What is the box thing under the Arial motor with the yellow wire going in As I see it is coming out the back of the coop?  I assume your are refering to the wiring diagram.  The "box" is just the terminal plate or the perspex panel in the photos.  The yellow wire is the UP/DOWN signal wire which goes to the aerial this is actually a white wire in the photos.  Basically the motor should have three wires +12V brown in the photos, Ov blue in the photos, and the UP/DOWN wire white.  With the +12V & OV applied to the brown & blue wires,  applying +12V on the white wire will raise the antenna and disconnecting or applying 0V will lower the antenna.


Glad you are finding this useful.  If you are getting a second hand aerial make sure it's a three wire type where two wires are the battery supply wires (+12V), and the 3rd wire is the UP/DOWN signal.  There are also older aerials which are operated via a changeover switch (or relay) which are a little more complex to use though still possible though to simplify things I haven't included how.

If you have any more questions it might be best to PM me if you are able so it doesn't depend on me seeing your post to respond.

I have three houses using this design and a fourth using an electronic light switch in a field which is battery powered.   They have performed without a hitch over the freezing weather in ice and snow with only one door failing to open one morning when some frozen droppings kept it shut. Once I cleaned this off and cleared a ledge below the door where it had lodged it hasn't happened again.  However it's advisible to protect the pulleys from snow using plastic sheeting or an entrance porch shelter to prevent driving snow packing round the pulleys.

Best wishes
HF
Title: Re: How to make a simple automatic pophole opener/closer
Post by: Maria M on May 29, 2013, 12:04
Part 3 -  Assembling the Electrical Controller

In this part we’re going to start the construction so things should be a little less technical and heavy once we start to put things together so get your screw drivers and wire cutters at the ready.  We’re going to start with the electrical controller which is pretty easy.  We’re going to just lash the bits together first in order to check things are working before we deploy them permanently.  This will help to pull things into focus and give you a pretty good feel for how the final system will work.

We’re going to need the parts we identified in Part 2a.  Two 12Vdc PSUs, the programmable timer and terminal blocks and in order to test it works we will need the aerial.  A mains flying socket lead will be useful too so we aren’t struggling about on the floor trying to use a wall double socket.  Find yourself a table or bench top where you can work undisturbed and layout the parts at a convenient working height.

I actually bought one of the “rat in a snake” supplies from badger2606 on ebay  http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110592077489
and I’d recommend you do to especially if you don’t want to have to use a multimeter  to check the polarity of the dc output.  This comes with ready stripped leads with the polarity identified and although it costs a little more it’s a good quality PSU fully protected with bags of power.  Get two.  Badger says it doesn’t have a mains plug fitted but the one I got actually had a European mains plug fitted so if you get this you can either cut it off and fit a UK mains plug, or use a euro to uk adaptor, or substitute a lead with an IEC plug one end (like on an electric kettle) and a UK plug on the other.  I have a box full of old mains leads so I was able to find one to use.  If you want to fit a UK plug there’s lots of web sites which will show you how, just google “how to fit a UK mains plug“ for a list of links.

  (http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8461.jpg)

If you don’t use one of these PSUs but have a plug top one it will be terminated in a tubular type of connector which you will need to cut off.  Obviously don’t power the unit up while you are stripping wire as you don’t want to risk damaging the electronics.  Leave about 10cms of cable still attached to the plug if you think you might want to reuse it in the future but it’s not needed for this project.  The dc lead from the PSU will likely be twin insulated wires laid up as a figure of 8 cable.  Split the two wires out into Y tails about 15cms long and cut one about 5cms shorter than the other as a precaution against them shorting together once the insulation is stripped.  Strip 2cms of insulation from each lead.  To strip insulation you can either use the wire cutters with the back towards the direction you are going to pull the insulation off.  Holding the wire in one hand and the cutters in the other carefully nick the insulation with the cutters, so as not to cut the wire just the insulation, pull the snips away with the stripped insulation leaving the bare wire.  A little practice might be needed to pull off the insulation cleanly without damaging the wire.  Another method is to nick the insulation with a craft knife and bend the wire sharply on the nick to get the insulation to split.  It will then be easier to pull off with you r finger nail or the back of the snips.  If the cable isn’t a twin figure of 8 but a round cable you will first need to strip the outer overall insulation and you should then find two wires underneath which you will need to strip as above.  Alternatively if it is a round cable you may find that it is laid up with a central conductor and an overall thin wire screen (like a coaxial cable).   If so separate the wire screen conductors from the central insulated wire and twist them tightly together so you form two wires.  Strip the end of the central wire which should be the +positive lead and the overall screen the –negative.

Cut off a 5 terminal strip of terminals.  The wire will be stranded so twist each of the two stripped stranded wires tightly (it maybe better to double the cut wire first if the strands are very thin so the screw bites better) and insert each wire in opposite outer most  terminals of the strip and tighten the screw to secure.   Plug in the PSU to a power socket and turn on the power.

(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Projects/IMG_8460.jpg)
 
Setup the Multimeter with the red probe in the red V voltage terminal and the black probe in the OV or COM terminal and the rotary switch set to 20V in the Vdc section of the dial (maybe marked V with a straight line above it).  Switch on the MM and the LCD (http://www.robustbuy.com/nintendo-ds-accessories-lcd-touch-screens-c-532_562_588.html) screen should show approx 00.0V.  Probe down on the two wires in the terminal block (you can make connection on the terminal screws).  The LCD should show 12.00 to 15.00V or thereabouts.  If the display shows minus 12 ie -12.00 reverse the probes so the minus sign is no longer displayed.  The wire connected to the RED probe will be the +positive terminal and that connected to the black the –negative terminal.  Mark the +positive wire with red PVC tape or a freezer label, or similar.  Do this for both power supplies marking the polarity of the wires.  If you are unsure how to use a multimeter there are several instruction videos on facebook and the like, just google “how to use a multimeter” for a list.  If you still don’t feel competent to do this ask a friendly electrician to do this for you.  If you take it into him he shouldn’t charge you much if anything to do this.

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We are now going to connect the aerial and test it extends and retracts properly.  Power down the PSU’s and taking the –negative wires from both PSU’s twist them together and insert in one end of the 5 way terminal strip and secure the screw.  If the PSU’s are different current ratings take the higher one and screw its +positive wire into the opposite end of the 5 way terminal strip.  Screw the remaining +positive wire from the other PSU into the centre terminal of the strip.

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Examine the aerial cable it should consist of three wires, two of which will be for the +positive and –negative of the 12V supply and the other should be the up/down signal wire.  Check the aerial instructions to check which colour is which wire.  It will be something like brown (or red) for the +positive, black (or blue) for the negative and white (or yellow) for the signal. If the wires have crimped on bullet terminals,  ring or spade  terminals cut them off and strip the wires as for the PSUs.   Screw the +positive wire into the end +positive screw terminal on the 5way strip and the -negative into the –negative screw terminal.  Leave the signal wire unconnected.   Check the connections before turning on the PSUs .  Turn on the power the aerial should remain retracted.   Touch and hold the Signal wire on the central +positive terminal screw head and it should extend.  Hold it so that it is pointing away from you and extends freely without hitting anything.  When it reaches the top of its travel you may hear a number of clicks which is the clutch slipping before it switches off the motor.  Removing the signal wire (open circuiting it) or connecting it to the common –negative terminal  should cause the aerial to retract.  At both extremes of travel the aerial should switch off the motor drive, possibly after several clicks of the clutch.  Repeat a couple of times to ensure it extends and retracts reliably.

Assuming that went ok we are now ready to deploy the components into their final locations.  The only difference between the test set up and the final deployment is that the signal PSU will be plugged into a programmable timer to operate the door at the required times.  Programme the timer so the ON time is set for the door closing time, I suggest 30mins after dusk, and the OFF time at the time you want it to open in the morning.  Make sure if it’s a 7 day timer you select the everyday setting.  Also you need to set up the initial phasing so it starts from either open (OFF), or closed (ON), as you wish.  Usually if it’s a digital timer there’s a manual auto button which when pressed repeatedly cycles through -  On - Auto – Off - Auto.  If you want to start it with the door open cycle it to Off then press one more time to Auto, or if you want to start it with the door closed, cycle it to On and press once more to Auto.
 
It’s a good idea to set up a second programme which closes the door for a minute (whatever is the smallest period settable) say 2 or 3 mins before you want to permanently close it for the night.  This way the chickens are warned the door is closing and if they miss it or are unfortunate enough to get their tails trapped they get a second chance or are quickly released before the door closes finally for the night.  They soon get to know the procedure.  The door moves quite slowly typically taking around 8 seconds to close and 10secs to open for a three loop pulley and 2/3rds of this for a double loop system so the chances of being trapped are remote and it's never happened to mine.   You’d need a very slow chicken or a very dumb one to be trapped.  If you set the closing too close to sun down you could lock them out though so you might have to exeriment inutially with the optimum delay.

We won’t of course be locating the aerial close to the controller so we will be extending the three wires (+positive & -negative supply and signal) from the controller terminal strip using a twin and earth mains lighting type cable with a terminal strip each end.   Also I’d recommend mounting the terminal strip at the controller end on a small board (a short length of floor board is ideal) in which we would drill a hole to mount it on a nail in the wall of the garage or shed. The PSU components would be mounted or put out of the way as best fits the location.

See the photos.

In the final post we’ll cover the actuator installation on the house.

HF

Nice, I loved it and this will surely help me on doing the works.. Thanks is not enough..