[JohnB47]

I'm soon to be the proud owner of a rather old shed, which is all topsy turvey 'cos part of the base has rotted away.

I'm thinking of digging over the ground , firming it down and then putting down some of that black sheeting (our allotment shed calls it "Strong Porous Ground Cover"). The shed will sit on top of that.

If I have to replace some or all of the base supports, what's the best way to treat the wood? What about the wood above ground?

Any advice on treatment or other general tips?

Thanks.

[mumofstig]

I still think it is best to put some paving slabs under the wooden bearers.
Treat any wood near the ground with a proper wood preservative, to help prevent rotting,rather than just the shed/fence paint type things, which don't do much IMO apart from add colour

[JohnB47]

I still think it is best to put some paving slabs under the wooden bearers.
Treat any wood near the ground with a proper wood preservative, to help prevent rotting,rather than just the shed/fence paint type things, which don't do much IMO apart from add colour

Thanks.

I've had a look at timber treatments in the past and couldn't understand the difference between them and preservative, apart from the cost. Like you I decided that the 'treatments' are probably more useful as a colouring.

So, preservatives it is.

[aelf]

I did my shed base with bitumen paint (cos that's all I had at the time) about 6 years ago and have had no problems with damp. It's also mounted on bricks over visqueen sheeting.

[noshed]

You can buy pre-treated bearers which weren't that dear when I looked last. Paving slabs help to even out the load on the ground as well.

[Kleftiwallah]

Just a thought, how about those fence post pegs, square section to take a post and a spike to bash into the ground?     Cheers,     Tony.

[grendel]

old engine oil works a treat, I have just used some 3"x5" joists that my wifes Grandad laid up with a coating of engine oil - over 30 years ago, they had been sitting on the floor in the garage for 30 years and were still as good as new.
Grendel

[grendel]

oh and yes - even after 30 years you still get filthy when you handle it, but its well preserved.
Grendel

[JohnB47]

Thanks everyone.

[Vit]

+1 for motor oil. If you not affraid to heat up oil, than apply it - it will be better. you can use creosote(not sure if correct spelling), but it's smelly  :blink:
It's almost useless to apply wood preservatives by brush, roll or spray - timber treated on the factory did under pressure.

[Belgarion]

I was worried about posting about this coz it ain't really eco friendly, but I suppose it is recycling.  My Mate has a Garage and is always willing to let me have his old engine oil,  I use it on my fences and sheds and it works a treat, just don't use it too close to anywhere you want to grow!!!

[Vit]

Well, IMO motor oil is more eco friendly than preservatives based on arsenicum or cadmium

[Wombat2]

I make up a recipe of borax and antifreeze - supposed to last 25-30 years ...I'll let you know in 20 odd years.

[Vit]

I make up a recipe of borax and antifreeze - supposed to last 25-30 years ...I'll let you know in 20 odd years.

Ozz? hehehe  i have a question, if you don't mind. It's about termites, if you have any around and know, how to get rid of them

[Swed]

Is this what you mean?
http://www.harrodhorticultural.com/HarrodSite/product/Garden%20Netting_Ground%20Cover%20and%20Mulching%20Fabrics/GDN-060.htm

Rain/snow - draining?
Raised over the surronding ground ?

A couple of photo of how we did it. On top of the gravel/stone moist(?) barrier we put ground insulation 7cm in two crossing layers. On top of the insulation we put a moist(?) insulating plastic sheat and on top of that we made a concreat floor.  I forgot(!) to put the plastic hooses for heating in the casting... so that side of my experiment failed. The result is awsome! It is -dry- inside my garden shed.
I raised the floor about 7-10" over the surrounding ground, to ensure a minimum risk of flooding (again...)