[N.WalesIdealist]

Morning all.

In the next couple of weeks I'll be moving my glass greenhouse from it's spot on soil, se urea using buried base plates, to a concrete base that I'll lay in the week sometime. The hope is to put 3 or 4 courses of bricks down to add height and some permanent beds for tomatoes in. I'm unsure how to fit the frame onto the bricks though, any advice would be appreciated!

The site is VERY windy!

Cheers!

[Aunt Sally]

My greenhouse has about a 3 inch high metal base below the glass panes this is bolted down onto the concrete base.

[JayG]

I used frame fixing screws (heavy-duty screws of at least 4" with matching rawlplugs.)

Before glazing, you drill holes at strategic intervals in the base with a metal drill bit, then the appropriately-sized (and depth) holes into the bricks with a masonry drill; the rawlplug is then tapped into the hole through the hole in the frame so that the "lip" of the plug sits flush on the frame. I used "waxoyl" to coat the screws in to make it easier to drive them home and also hopefully make them last longer. Only problem I had was that my "bricks" were concrete ones so the holes filled with dust and the drill bit was only just long enough..................    

I used 8 altogether for my 8 X 6 greenhouse; I think the recommendation was for more than that but it's withstood several gales so far without any signs of movement!

I'm assuming your bricks will be mortared in place and that you are OK with the height of the “step-over” you will create at the door if the frame base is the usual continuous design.

[N.WalesIdealist]

That'll do the job nicely Jay, thanks! The tip about waxoyl is appreciated too! The step over shouldn't bea problem, it's quite a tall gh, so imbthink of creating a bed either side of the gh inside and putting pallet slats across to create a floor with a bit of storage room underneath.

Thanks again!

[savbo]

i used concrete screws into concrete blocks - the kind with a hex head on so I could use a socket set to tighten. think they'd probably work on bricks too

[8doubles]

You can put L shaped pieces of fixing band* under the first course of brickwork as you lay it , a piece in each corner will do for a 8x6 greenhouse.Bolt or self tap to g/house frame.
There is less chance of damaging bricks with this method.

* http://www.fixingband.com/   available at most builders merchants and handy stuff to have in the shed.

[CDave]

I used "waxoyl" to coat the screws in to make it easier to drive them home

I used a tub of cheap margarine - 39p. Certainly helps drive em home - dont know about lasting longer though 

[8doubles]

I used "waxoyl" to coat the screws in to make it easier to drive them home

I used a tub of cheap margarine - 39p. Certainly helps drive em home - dont know about lasting longer though 

Lard would probably be nearer to the old fashioned tallow. I have a tin of screw tallow i inherited that has been in use for 50+ years.

[Lee1978]

A good tip that someone gave me when i assembled my greenhouse was not to bolt the greenhouse down until it was glazed otherwise if the structure is slightly off square you will have trouble glazing it as the glass will not fit

[Swing Swang]

But then torque them all down evenly if you don't want to risk getting 'pinging' a payne.

[JayG]

A good tip that someone gave me when i assembled my greenhouse was not to bolt the greenhouse down until it was glazed otherwise if the structure is slightly off square you will have trouble glazing it as the glass will not fit

No doubt frames vary but I couldn't have done that with mine as the fixing holes would have been too near the edge with the glass already in place (plus the risk of breakage working with hand tools so close to the glass.)

It's true that getting the base and frame completely square needs patience and care. In particular measure the diagonals very accurately; it's easy for it to be an inch or more out of "true" on those measurements even though it looks perfect when squinted at from a distance!