[andyjwill]

Hi,

It's my third year of growing greenhouse Toms (Shirley this year) and any ripening Toms I have had this year have Bottom End Rot. I think I have been very careful in watering and they have been well watered. They may have dried out once when I was late back from work! but onyl for a few hours.

I have put them in open bottom pots placed into holes in the grow bags. Despite watering every time a Tom ripens it gets the rot.

So 2 questions; Am I going to lose the lot? and is it better next year to forget damn grown bags and plant into a greenhouse bed.

Thanks

[noshed]

It's uneven watering apparently - difficult to control in a greenhouse. You could try a soaker hose to get a more even supply

[doubledug]

I have the same problem,how hot is your greenhouse,it seems to me that no matter how much you water, even using hydroponics if it gets too hot then you get this end rot. have you tried coolglass. It is bought in sachets and painted on to the inside of the glasshouse. I am not allowed to do this as i have the toms in the conservatory       

[gillie]

This is the first year I have not had this problem with at least some of my plants. 

Blossom end rot varies considerably with the variety, the weather and everything else.  Soldier on! you will probably get at least some tomatoes that are reasonably free from it and can always cut the bottom bits off.

I suggest you try several different varieties next year.

Cheers,

Gillie

[Debz]

My mum had really bad blossom end rot last year and she grew all her tomatoes in pots with trays underneath.  I grew the same varieties in growbags and didn't lose a single fruit.  She is really generous with the water but I tend to be a little more frugal (lazy) about watering. 

[madcat]

I used to grow mine outside in big pots.  One year, when we had summers, every plum tom had or threatened B.E.R.  The Gardener's delight (?spelling) and and the beef were fine.  I found that if I knocked the residual flower off the end of the tomato they were less likely to succumb.  Why - I have no idea!   

[mumofstig]

A lot of the american growing sites recommend epsom salts for this as well
They also say that the cherry toms don't seem to suffer, but that plum toms are known for it
   Can you get some of those dripper things that you put on a pop bottle, they seem a good idea
I can only say that it's easier if you can grow in the soil

[mumofstig]

Found this on the NVs site

Medwyn Williams:   If tomatoes are not watered properly and get dry around the roots when in flower, the critical period being between 16 and 21 days after pollination or in other words after the little tomato has formed, the problem kick starts. When the plant is left dry it struggles to move calcium around to the fruit and will take it instead to the foliage first, leaving a lack of calcium within the fruit, hence the problem. If you are experiencing this problem now, continue to water and liquid feed you plant regularly but also add a level teaspoon of Calcium Nitrate to a gallon of water and add about a pint to each plant once every 10 days or so. 

[doubledug]

Found this on the NVs site

Medwyn Williams:   If tomatoes are not watered properly and get dry around the roots when in flower, the critical period being between 16 and 21 days after pollination or in other words after the little tomato has formed, the problem kick starts. When the plant is left dry it struggles to move calcium around to the fruit and will take it instead to the foliage first, leaving a lack of calcium within the fruit, hence the problem. If you are experiencing this problem now, continue to water and liquid feed you plant regularly but also add a level teaspoon of Calcium Nitrate to a gallon of water and add about a pint to each plant once every 10 days or so. 

Thx that helps