Advice on digging a hole for apple trees.

Bodger · « **on:** December 03, 2008, 15:08 »

On the 20th of this month I'll be collecting 60 apple trees which will be on 106 or 111 rootstock. They are described as being 'maiden whips' My question is this, I'm going to dig the holes before I collect them and I havent got a clue as to the dimensions that I should be digging.
Anybody got an idea ?

richyrich7 · « **Reply #1 on:** December 03, 2008, 15:46 »

I assume they will be bare root ? I'd go for two spades width both ways, don't forget to fork over the bottom of each hole adding some compost/manure if you can

Trillium · « **Reply #2 on:** December 03, 2008, 16:22 »

I agree with Richie. The 'new' philosophy says to dig as small a hole as possible so that the roots can 'tough it out' and supposedly adapt better. I've never found this works despite several attempts, especially if you're dealing with clay or poor soil. If the hole is large enough with loose soil and amendments, the roots will become strong and prolific before they hit the harder stuff which they're now better able to do. I have 17 fruit trees I did at my current house and the 15 I did this wayl are thriving. The original 2 small hole ones are struggling.

Old Whiskers · « **Reply #3 on:** December 03, 2008, 17:42 »

I have over 70 apple trees, and I plant whips like this: with a spade, I mark out a square on the grass about 18" across and then lift the sod (about two inches deep) with a fork. I put that to one side and then dig the earth out of the hole into a barrow, throwing out any big stones. I put the whip in, spreading the roots in the hole (if any are too long I shorten them) and fill the earth back in, shaking the soil down between and around the roots. I tread it in firmly, and then replace the sod, grass side down with a slit cut in it to accomodate the whip. I stamp that down very firmly (making sure the graft is clear of soil level) and fit on a rabbit guard. I don't use stakes, and find the inverted sod holds the young tree very well. I would not advise using compost (and definitely not manure) around the roots.

Aunt Sally · « **Reply #4 on:** December 03, 2008, 17:58 »

This is the way the farm staff planted them when I worked at East Malling Research Station.

To get them positioned in the exact place you want them push a marker cane into the ground exactly where you want the tree. Use another strip of flat wood longer than the planting hole will be wide. This flat wood has a notch near each end and one in the centre.

Place the centre notch of the flat wooden stick where your marker cane has been placed and another cane in the notches at each end of the stick.

Remove centre marker cane and the flat wooden stick, dig hole.

Replace the notched stick onto the end canes and put the trunk of your little tree in the centre notch. This will not only position the tree correctly but it will be planted at the correct depth as the stick will be at soil level and you can align the original planting depth of the little tree to this.

Fill the hole back to the level of the flat stick.

:shock: It's easier to do than to type out

DD. · « **Reply #5 on:** December 03, 2008, 18:25 »

Quote from: "Aunt Sally"

:shock: It's easier to do than to type out

Maybe - but not 60 times!

richyrich7 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 03, 2008, 21:18 »

Must admit when I planted our hawthorn hedge, I used a long crow bar satbbed it in wriggled it a bit, drooped whip in, then stamped the soil back into place. All but one has grown. :oops:

Old Whiskers · « **Reply #7 on:** December 03, 2008, 23:46 »

Quote from: "richyrich7"

Must admit when I planted our hawthorn hedge, I used a long crow bar satbbed it in wriggled it a bit, drooped whip in, then stamped the soil back into place. All but one has grown. :oops:

That's exactly how I planted mine, ten years ago; now it's ten feet high and ready for laying.

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Advice on digging a hole for apple trees.

Bodger

Trillium