[derekmac]

Hi does anyone know how to remove flywheel to get at the points and where any  :?: spares can be found for this model dmac

[DD.]

Welcome to the forums, Derek, going to move you to the 'Equipment Shed' where the folk with oily rags live!

[Gwiz]

Hi Derick.
briggs and stratton engine? if so, they are under the flywheel.
undo large nut, wind nut to top of thread.put a large screwdriver under the flywheel to provide pressure from underneath, and give the large nut a good tap with a hammer while excerting pressure on the screwdriver
caution.
make sure that all of the threads of the crankshaft are covered by the nut (you DON'T want to damage them)
flywheel is a keyed, tapered fit.

enjoy.

[derekmac]

Thanks but not briggs and stratton it a Aspera model Type L3091211 have tried that but wont budge its a ally flywheel so dont want to damage it thought of pouring boiling water on to expand ally. Think its not bin off in years would a photo help dmac

[dorimower]

Hello,
   Most Aspera engines had an aluminium flywheel that was very thin and weak in the area between the centre boss and the outer edge.  There was a knock off tool which was basically an extended nut that fully covered crank tread and was used in the way described earlier up the page...
The crank end is very very easily bent/thread damaged/or broken off :shock: which ends the story.  
 Using just the thin original nut for the knock off operation will likely damage thread/crank etc..it does not protect/support thread enough during knock off.

 Never ever use a leg type puller on an a Aspera flywheel....because the centre boss will stay put whilst the legs tear the flywheel outer from the flywheel. :shock: .....

 ...On some of the flywheels, I seem to think (but it's all a long time ago now :?  :oops: ), you may find that there are 3 holes drilled or cast in the flywheel just a little outside of the centre nut.... these were not threaded at new but may have been since or could now be treaded to a size of 1/4"? bolt available locally...and then a puller plate made up to pull the flywheel with much less risk of bending/breaking flywheel/damaging crank etc..it would take longer finding/making a puller...but the result may be a happier one.

Once inside....the contact set is under a thin tin plate cover which is held in place by a spring clip.  Some are conventional with a condensor bolted alongside whilst some had the condensor built into coil.
 The contacts need to be immaculate clean and dry to get the spark to play...also check that the point faces close true and flat together...there was a special little tool to tweak this mainly on new points at first fitting. The pivot can wear too.  It may pay to pull a little good dry card through the points once set up as a final clean to make sure all is free of grime...
points setting is 20 thou.
The contacts and coil are on a stator plate on slotted holes for timing adjustment...so if you need to remove stator do scribe marks before removal so as to replace it in exactly the same spot.

I'm too far away from the mower world these days to know about the spares situation.
 Aspera were Italian licence built engines based on the  USA Tecumseh engines.  This operation became Tecnamotor, briefly with a Fiat involment at one time....then more recently it closed....leaving just the USA side of things... a visit to http://www.tecumsehuk.co.uk/ tells the continued story.

Most garden machinery agents should be familair with Aspera/Tecnamotor etc and know the current spares situation....they were made in massive numbers so s/h parts will be about and also quite likely some pattern parts too.

All the best,
         "Dori"

[Gwiz]

hello Dori.
You are absolutely corect as usual on all of the  aspera details.
I've still got a couple of the knock off tools in my toolbox at work. I don't even think you can get them from the spare parts suppliers anymore, at least, I haven't noticed them for sale for quite some time.

[derekmac]

Hi all Helpers progess got flywheel off a pan of boiling water and light pressure on two push bike levers and it popped off cleaned points and checked gap replaced flywheel no spark still ?? help on next bit took photo of points but dont no how to show them here? derek mac

[jarigo]

Hi Dericmac,
    I had an old Yardmaster  rotovator that had Briggs and Stratton 7hp engine with points and would,nt start so I removed coil and fitted ignition module from a 11hp Honda engine .Now engine starts first time every time.

[jarigo]

Just noticed spelt your name wrong.Sorry.

[dorimower]

Hello,
 The ignition coil can be, or certainly could be in my day, checked by a local machinery agent...taken in with it still mounted on the stator plate..having scribed a line from stator to block to aid positioning for refitting.  Condensor if seperate, rather than in coil type, could be tested too....but I struggled to prove one way or another with these unless totally kaput. In coil types could have a seperate condensor retrofitted if required.

I always stress to get the points immaculate....as even just a little grime from feeler gauges can upset things.... With the points out a little very fine wet and dry paper used dry pulled through can give a fine, flat finish..then a final clean once set with dry card or corner of clean cotton handkerchief.:shock:     The "immaculate, clean and dry" is very important there being no battery powered set up as in an old car system.

Is there a stop wire going back to the carb throttle crank.?...if so this should be held from earth on a insulated mounting only contacted to earth to kill ignition...damage to this lead could short things down.

If the coil proved to be ok I suspect a retro fit electronic igntion module from a pattern spares provider could be a way forward...but I have no experience of fitting these as I used to work for a company that worked on basis of originality back then with regard spares relative to agencies held.

Some engines had an open straight clip from HT lead to plug top others had a screw in supressor cap on the end of HT lead lead these can fail....and never dismiss the spark plug...some go on for years equally another can fail under load.

Well done with the flywheel.....years ago we used to see a few broken ones placed on the spares counter.....hope the missing spark comes out of hiding soon
 "Dori"

[Gwiz]

we did used to get the odd ignition coil that would fail, and they were usually either aspera or suffolk.
I've never tried the trick of fitting a honda coil, but if it works, then why not?
You can get an "atom" electronic ignition module to fit instead of points, they cost about a tenner.

[derekmac]

hi all my helpers this is giving me renewed hope revisted points checked security of fastners re cleaned re fitted fly wheel a weak intermitent spark so its coming but not there yet you talk about new modules would the magnet in the fly wheel have any effect  dmac

[Gwiz]

I can't remember ever having to replace a flywheel because of week magnets, but there is always a first time.... :roll:

[derekmac]

Hi Thanks Dori found a site on he web which sells the points and condeser still trying for coil decided to replace the lot and work from there cheers DMAC

[dorimower]

Hello Dmac,

I have a feeling that you are close to a win....
.....first clean no spark...second clean up some spark....................

"Dori"