Landmaster 88 Rotovator

  • 27 Replies
  • 23907 Views
*

SimonH

  • New Member
  • *
  • Location: Woodford Essex
  • 33
Landmaster 88 Rotovator
« on: February 06, 2007, 16:04 »
I have an old Landmaster 88 machine which has been giving sterling service.   However, I now can not get any sign of life out of it.   I have changed the fuel and the plug, but do not seem to be getting any sign of a spark.   Has anyone any ideas?


Regards

Simon

*

muntjac

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Location: near diss norfolk
  • 11971
Landmaster 88 Rotovator
« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2007, 18:31 »
which engine is it ?..
still alive /............

*

SimonH

  • New Member
  • *
  • Location: Woodford Essex
  • 33
Landmaster 88 Rotovator
« Reply #2 on: February 07, 2007, 08:46 »
I will check tonight

Thanks


Simon

*

SimonH

  • New Member
  • *
  • Location: Woodford Essex
  • 33
Landmaster 88 Rotovator
« Reply #3 on: February 07, 2007, 17:45 »
It is a Landmaster  Super 88 with a Briggs and Straton 3HP  easy spin engine.    I have had the back cover with the starting cord off and the ignition lead looks reasonable, but from the look of it I can't see how to replace it anyway.  

Any help appreciated

Regards

Simon

*

Bigbadfrankie

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Location: SW Cornwall
  • 1647
Landmaster 88 Rotovator
« Reply #4 on: February 07, 2007, 17:55 »
If it was running ok when you last used it. Put it in the green house to warm up and dry out. Fill the tank with fresh petrol in a couple of days and it shold be fine. :wink:
always have a target
and an objective.

*

Gwiz

  • Guest
Landmaster 88 Rotovator
« Reply #5 on: February 07, 2007, 19:18 »
if it says "magnetron" its an electronic ignition model.
a 88 may very well be old enough to have points, and they may be damp, or have corroded.
if it is a points model, you will find them under the flywheel which is keyed onto a tapred shaft. to get to the flywheel you need to remove the engine cover ( normally 3 or 4  3/8ths bolts )
check beforehand that the engine cutout wire is not shorting out on the engine casing ect, it does happen sometimes and it may save you a longer job if it is!
cant remember the points gap at present (years since i had to fit some ), but for some reason, 18 thou sticks in my mind.
good luck, let me know how you get on. :wink:

*

SimonH

  • New Member
  • *
  • Location: Woodford Essex
  • 33
Landmaster 88 Rotovator
« Reply #6 on: February 08, 2007, 09:27 »
Hi Gwiz,  thanks for that.   When I took the back cover off to check the ingnition lead,   the end of the ingnition lead went into a small fitting that then had two contacts sitting ontop of the flywheel ( I think that's what it was anyway).   It looked to me (being non-technical) that the flywheel spinning generated the spark with these two contacts.  Does that make any sense?  
I should think it has to be at least 30 years old.

Regards

Simon

*

Gwiz

  • Guest
Landmaster 88 Rotovator
« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2007, 12:42 »
yep. sounds likeyou are describing the coil, which has two arms to it. it is made up of laminated strips of metal.
the arms must not touch the flywheel, there should be an air gap between the arms and the flywheel approximately the thickness of a thumb nail.
is there a wire running from the coil to under the flywheel? if so, you have points under there which may need looking at.
how old is the spark plug? not the same age as the machine i hope! :lol:

*

SimonH

  • New Member
  • *
  • Location: Woodford Essex
  • 33
Landmaster 88 Rotovator
« Reply #8 on: February 08, 2007, 15:23 »
The plug is new as is the fuel.   How do I get to the points?   Do I have to take the flywheel off?



Thanks for your help,

Simon

*

Gwiz

  • Guest
Landmaster 88 Rotovator
« Reply #9 on: February 08, 2007, 17:19 »
is the starter cup on top of the flywheel? it has a mesh screen on it held on by two 4ba bolts (small). the starter cup fits into the center of the recoil starter pulley.
if you have one of these, it unscrews in the normal direction. you should have a special tool that undos this without damaging the mechanism. if you dont have the tool, it can be done very carefully with a lage puipe wrench, but this is NOT recomended.
however you decide to take it off, be very carefull. the cap of the starter mechanism will pop off after you have removed the two small 4ba bolts, have a tray under the starter before you pop the cap off, as it has about 5 large ball bearings in it, and you WILL lose one if you aren`t prepared beforehand.
the flywheel is now on a tapered shaft, but has a woodruff key that sets the position for the timing.
i find that a short sharp tap with a rawhide mallet on the cast iron part of the flywheel will usually loosen it up enough for it to lift off.
DONT IN ANY WAY TAP THE SHAFT. if you do you will have problems fitting the starter cup back on later.
assuming that the flywheel has now come off, you will now see an alluminium round cover that is held on by another couple of 4ba bolts/screws. remove these, lift of the cover and you will see the points.
these are made up of the moving part that is operated by a fibre push rod, and a larger static part that looks like a cylinder with a nipple on the top. the wire from the coil is fixed to the top of the nipple by a spring.
the larger cylinder is the condensor. chances are, all you need to do is give the faces of the points set a clean with some fine emery cloth, reset the gap and reasemble. if you go down the new points route, dont forget to give them a quick clean with the emery cloth to take off the protective layer (or you wont get a spark )
hope this helps.
if you get stuck give me a shout, you can pm me if you like with your phone number, i will talk you though it on the phone.
all the best
graham

*

SimonH

  • New Member
  • *
  • Location: Woodford Essex
  • 33
Landmaster 88 Rotovator
« Reply #10 on: February 10, 2007, 11:37 »
I have had a good look at the engine today.  I have taken the starter unit off and removed the two contacts (presumably the coil?)that sit on top of the flywheel, which I think acts as a magneto. I have cleaned those and put them back with a 10thou gap.   There do not appear to be any points.   It seems to me that the timing of the spark is determind by the flywheel as there are low spots on it which would break the spark.   The coil is a sealed unit and the ingition lead comes out of it.

Does this make any sense?

I have looked at the B & S website to see if I could download a manual, but I would need the engine model number and there is not an engine plate anywhere with that information.

Anyone got any ideas??


Regards

Simon

*

Gwiz

  • Guest
Landmaster 88 Rotovator
« Reply #11 on: February 10, 2007, 15:11 »
have a look at the engine cowling. briggs always stamp the engine numbers into the metal. you wont find a seperate plate with the numbers on.
on engines with a horizontal crankshaft, you would usually find the numbers stamped into the cowling near the spark plug.
hope this helps.

*

SimonH

  • New Member
  • *
  • Location: Woodford Essex
  • 33
Landmaster 88 Rotovator
« Reply #12 on: February 10, 2007, 15:44 »
Thanks Graham,

I now have the engine off the frame and on the workbench   I have found a number,  most of it readable, but might be enough to download a manual.   I now see what you mean about the starter cup.   I am about to remove that (being careful about the bearings!) and will see wherre I go from there.

Will keep you posted

Thanks for your help

Simon

*

muntjac

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Location: near diss norfolk
  • 11971
Landmaster 88 Rotovator
« Reply #13 on: February 10, 2007, 18:03 »
there are B&S small engine manuals availale here

http://briggsandstratton.com/display/router.asp?DocID=78485

*

SimonH

  • New Member
  • *
  • Location: Woodford Essex
  • 33
Landmaster 88 Rotovator
« Reply #14 on: February 10, 2007, 18:22 »
Thanks Muntjac,  I fond the manual for my engine  (80301#) but it does not go into much detail.   I have taken the flywheel off and checked and cleaned the points  (20thou gap) but still no spark.   The only thing left is that I am not sure what gap there should be between the coil contacts and the flywheel if any.  At the moment it is about 10thou.  Is that too much or not enough?

Otherwise, I shall have to give up!!

Regards

Simon



xx
Landmaster Rotovator

Started by Strawberry on Equipment Shed

2 Replies
6711 Views
Last post April 10, 2010, 05:49
by Gwiz
xx
landmaster L120 rotovator

Started by brytheold on Equipment Shed

3 Replies
2738 Views
Last post February 19, 2014, 10:13
by joyfull
xx
Landmaster Lion Cub Rotovator

Started by shaheed on Equipment Shed

1 Replies
1803 Views
Last post September 11, 2015, 12:33
by grendel
xx
LANDMASTER LION CUB ROTOVATOR

Started by aman on Equipment Shed

1 Replies
4110 Views
Last post June 23, 2008, 17:44
by Bigbadfrankie
 

Page created in 0.14 seconds with 37 queries.

Powered by SMFPacks Social Login Mod
Powered by SMFPacks SEO Pro Mod |