[wbmkk]

I would like to add some organic matter to parts of my new allotment.

I can get a trailer of horse manure for £40 delivered to site or I could buy several bags of Gro Sure Farmyard manure https://www.wickes.co.uk/Gro-Sure-Farmyard-Manure---50L-NF/p/132290?awc=1563_1557083084_c658c8610a039624150ff19385ed60b1&utm_source=affiliate_window&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_term=249371&utm_content=deeplink&utm_campaign=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.digidip.net%2F

I know what I would probably prefer (option 2) but what would be better for the soil

thank you

[snowdrops]

Why would you prefer option 2? £40 for a load of manure would be my choice but I would check it is well rotted & also check for contamination of Aminopyralid before ordering.

[wbmkk]

Why would you prefer option 2?

I am busy getting my allotment sorted out (old elder tree removed, wild out of control brambles to sort out, remove general rubbish, remove old fencing, dig and remove weeds) so will only get the beds prepared in various phases so having bags seems the easier bet. I can leave the bags at home, then take them to the allotment as required. I don't have a shed yet.
Getting a big pile of manure means I have to set aside a place to store it.

[Potty Plotty Lotty]

I bought some of the bags from Wickes on Friday for general plot use as my normal manure source has dried up for the moment.

Although these bags are not guaranteed to be weed free, in my experience you are far less likely to introduce extra perennial weeds into your plot using this. If your trailer load comes from stables rather than a field it won't be such an issue.

I normally use the Gro-sure to mulch my asparagus beds and when planting new bushes etc.

The batch I bought on Friday was rather fragrant.... Never had this issue in the past but been having to drive with the car windows open for the past few days! Wouldn't fancy leaving it near the house for long.... I suspect it was just a one off but thought I'd warn you. 

[Goosegirl]

As Lotty says, it depends on where it comes from and how well it has rotted down. Both cow and horse manure will probably contain weed seeds of all sorts, whereas Gro-Sure will have been treated to make it as weed-free as possible. Personally I'd go for the bags, because at least it'll allow you to prepare a few beds and possibly get a crop or two of something this year, and you've got enough work to do without adding any more. If you get your manure delivered in autumn, by that time you'll have a place for it to rot down (those big builder's bags are useful for that) or spread it over the soil for the worms to take it in and it'll also act as a mulch to stop any weeds germinating. 

[snowdrops]

Why would you prefer option 2?

I am busy getting my allotment sorted out (old elder tree removed, wild out of control brambles to sort out, remove general rubbish, remove old fencing, dig and remove weeds) so will only get the beds prepared in various phases so having bags seems the easier bet. I can leave the bags at home, then take them to the allotment as required. I don't have a shed yet.
Getting a big pile of manure means I have to set aside a place to store it.

Take a look at Charles Dowding,he does no dig, website,YouTube videos, save you the digging the weeds out. You need large quantities of mulch(well rotted manure being acceptable), too much to buy by the bag load. If it’s well rotted you can plant straight away, cover the ground after strimming with cardboard, you still need to dig out brambles though. Digging the manure is still enough digging in my mind for those who enjoy digging. What I like about it is it’s better for the soil,micro organisms & the plants, they seem to grow as if you e given them rocket fuel 😂

[Christine]

I think that if you look back Snowdrops it's rather more than weeds that the opening poster has to manage - I think that the digging is turning up general rubbish that needs to be removed from site. No dig may well be a year or two down the course of managing this plot.

[rowlandwells]

we use horse manure have done for a number of years now and its free but if I was buying manure it would be good old cattle manure well rotted

some of our allotment folks have bought well rotted farm manure 8 tonnes for £60 .00 and boy have they had good results in my opinion you can't beat plenty of well rotted cattle manure if you do it properly you should need a load every two or three years

[snowdrops]

I think that if you look back Snowdrops it's rather more than weeds that the opening poster has to manage - I think that the digging is turning up general rubbish that needs to be removed from site. No dig may well be a year or two down the course of managing this plot.

Thanks Christine but I was referring to wbmk posting “dig & remove weeds” part of their post.

[wbmkk]

digging is turning up general rubbish that needs to be removed from site.

OP here

Still doing this .. there was a large pile, which has including tins, bottles, broken glass, canes, old netting, nails, lengths of steel pipe as well as three of those fence post anchors, which are pretty deep.

I bag up all the rubbish and take to the tip.

I'm also digging over the whole plot and trying to remove as many weed / grass roots as possible. It takes time, but I suppose if something is worth doing, it's worth doing right.

Onion sets and spuds were put in about a month ago, but that's all so far

Tomorrow I'll plant my first batch of 8 cabbages, sown at home about 6 weeks ago. Sweetcorn, courgettes, kale, more cabbages will go in too over the next few weeks

I've made seed tapes with carrot, beetroot, swede, radish and spring onion which will go in soon too.

Thanks for all the replies

[Goosegirl]

The correct preparation of the soil is paramount to what you do afterwards so can recommend the double-digging and an appointment for a massage later on! You'll have loads of annual and perennial weed seeds on the surface waiting or starting to grow and if you do get some manure it may also have weed seeds in it, so some more isn't going to make a lot of difference in the long run as they can be hoed out later on. The manure can also be used as a mulch to conserve water but don't put it around the base of the plants or it could burn them. Past knowledge of the plot would be useful to know how good the soil was, how well it drained and what type of soil you have, but if it's never been cultivated you'll just have to see how well it goes this year. Well done you for getting as far as you have.