[SethL]

Hi folks.

We have some apple trees we planted end of last year, they're about 3 or 4 years old. I cut them back a bit when planting them but now they are all about 2-3m tall and basically a straight upright stem.

We'd ideally like them to end up about 3-4m tall but branching lower down. I've looked for guides on shaping trees into 'goblets' but they are all either about very young saplings or renovating mature trees and I can't find advice for trees this age.

My question is if I cut back the main stem to the point where we'd like them to start branching outwards will that be too severe and just kill the trees? Is there any other way to create the goblet shape when I'm starting with what is essentially a big tall stick?

Thanks

[Goosegirl]

I'm not the best one to ask about pruning but when we moved house last year we inherited several old fruit trees that had been reduced to virtual stumps. They produced lots of tall branches which we trimmed back then pruned out any crossing ones to get the goblet shape. It looks like yours is getting there and I'd cut the tall stem half way down and just prune the tips of the others so it get more like a goblet but see what others think.

[mumofstig]

I'd cut the tips off the bottom branches now, to encourage formation of fruit buds, then in winter cut the main leader down to about 8/10ins above the existing branches, so some more branches will grow.

[Growster...]

We've got exactly the same issue, Seth, and this is interesting!

I've reduced the main top stem, and will now look at the side stems as well, as Mum and GG suggest.

In fact, the tree is a new growth from a previously cut-down tree (George), who was/is a 'Lord Lambourne', but we don't know yet if he'll be the same or just rootstock...

[Fishplate42]

My late father-in-law grew apples commercially. when we planted out new trees - hundreds of them. we always cut them down to knee-hight so that were just a stick and dropped a rabbit guard over them. They broke from there and formed perfect height trees for picking without the need for a ladder.

Prune for shape in the winter and fruit in the summer. I will be pruning my spur-bearing trees, in a couple of weeks’ time, for fruit by pruning this year's growth back to two buds to form fruiting spurs next year. Tip-bearing trees will have the number of shoots reduced to prevent overcrowding.

Ralph
 

[Lardman]

Rootstock and variety would be very helpful.
Plenty of good advice already, you may have caught it just in time to not be too drastic.  If it's a spur bearing tree, nip the secondary branches back to an outward facing bud about 3 buds into this years growth now. If it's a tip bearing tree just do one branch this year.  When dormant bring the leader down to around the same height and to an outward facing bud.   There's a lot of blind wood there for something on M26 or even MM111.

In fact, the tree is a new growth from a previously cut-down tree (George), who was/is a 'Lord Lambourne', but we don't know yet if he'll be the same or just rootstock...

Depends if you cut him off below the graft or not  Large choice of scions here to graft him over if you need to.

[Growster...]

Excellent point, Lards, I'll have to wait and see when the foliage nearby has died down, which in this foul weather may well be next Tuesday..:0(

[SethL]

Thanks all for the advice. Really helpful.

The varieties are Arthur Turner, Howgate Wonder, and I can't remember the third but it might be Red Falstaff. They are all on MM106 rootstock.

[Lardman]

You must love an apple pie or two 

If that's the Arthur Turner they do tend to grow up rather than out.  Nip it off you'll be fine it's a strong grower anyway. AT and RF are spur, HW is tip so treat it a little differently when pruning or you'll cut off the fruit each year    If you're growing open centred trees try and get them to break 3 or 4 main branches around waste height otherwise a few years from now most of the fruit is going to be out of reach.  You can also assist them into shape by weighing or stringing the new growth down.