[mantis]

Happy to see GWIZ (many apologies for wrong spelling last post and if he's as entertaining as guy in photo he'll do for me!)  with the actual torque setting. In my opinion, and please accept everyone has their own methods,  I still like to see a taper reasonably secure before torqueing.
         Regards Frank

[Praxxus]

Thanks for the input people.

I havent managed to get more keys yet as the local suppliers service department isnt open until Monday.

"I've been reading your saga and you finally ask how tight the crank nut should be?"

Dont take this the wrong way Frank    but...

1) I havent got a manual.
2) The locking/starter assembly requires a special tool, which I havent got, probably cant afford, and cant make as I havent got a mig welder/appropriate tools - so I was doing it by feel/guess work.
3) Thanks Gwiz, I researched many websites thoroughly but have obviously missed that torque info.

I'll get more keys and continue with diagnostics - so key in the keyway first, then flywheel over top and pressed onto shaft, then torqued to 55flb. Lovely jubbly.

Will post back early next week.

Tim

[Gwiz]

2) The locking/starter assembly requires a special tool, which I havent got, probably cant afford, and cant make as I havent got a mig welder/appropriate tools - so I was doing it by feel/guess work.

Howzabout this then......

http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmflyrmbs.htm

[Praxxus]

Yes, Gwiz, read that previously, thankyou, thats where I found out about using a block of wood and tapping it off.

Still worried the cup washer is the wrong way round, well it fell off when the flywheel was removed the first time , I didnt see its orientation as it was the same colour as the flywheel and it was getting dark.

Tim

[smud6ie]

Yes, Gwiz, read that previously, thankyou, thats where I found out about using a block of wood and tapping it off.

Still worried the cup washer is the wrong way round, well it fell off when the flywheel was removed the first time , I didnt see its orientation as it was the same colour as the flywheel and it was getting dark.

Tim

I did post quite a long reply earlier on re the washer, tools for removal, hollow drifts etc which was not posted.I contacted a mod and it looks like it was because there had been another post as I was typing and i should have pressed the post button twice after getting the warning
Anyway re the washer,the circumference touches the flywheel  ) as in your first example.

[Praxxus]

Excellent - thankyou

Tim

[smud6ie]

I have had to strip a Titan with 5hp Briggs this Am and have  posted a few pics .You only need a 37mm across the flats nut which is 22mm deep to remove and tighten the clutch.the extra depth is needed so you can fit an adjustable or pipe wrench on the end, the full 22mm is not needed if you have welding gear as you can weld a socket on a shallow nut or hacksaw the 37mm hex out of some 6mm or thicker plate steel.BTW the nut in the picture is part of a fabricated tool for another use!
When fitting the key 3rd pic,on this occasion I was able to sit the FW on the shaft lined up at the start of the keyway.enter the key and slid them both on together while keeping pressure on the key with my thumb nail .
The key is normally a shade tighter than this but probably be due to the sub zero temperature that had contracted it .

Edit: if you remove yours this way,make sure you don't lose the 6 bearrings. inside  starter drive clutch


hope this helps
smud6ie

[Praxxus]

Hi Dave !
I got some 'genuine' keys today.
Put it in as you suggested, put it all back together, it started - ran for 5 or 6 seconds-spluttered and died , wouldnt restart.
Took it all apart - key was slightly twisted.
Put new key in (it wasnt quite as tight as the first one) - wouldnt start.
Took it all apart again - key still perfect 
Reassembled with that key, it started - ran for 5 or 6 seconds - spluttered and died , wouldnt restart.  Key slightly twisted.
I dont know if this has anything to do with it but I am still unable to torque the starter assembly as i cant make a tool so I'm still drifting it a 1/4 turn around for now.
I have cleaned the points and re-gapped them to 20/1000".
Spark plug is at 30/1000".

Any ideas ? (or do you want to buy a rotovator ?!)   

Getting even more peeved with this,

Tim

Away for next 1 1/2 hours.

[Praxxus]

OOooppps !
Dave,
Please could you post an image of the flywheel with the key in situ but before the washer goes on ?
I might see where Im going wrong 

Tim

[Gwiz]

Get a new condensor/ points set, dress them correctly, re-gap to 18 thou' and re-gap plug to 25 thou'.
Remove carb, strip, and replace gaskets/ diaphragms.

Sounds to me like you have more than the one problem.
As these machines are getting a bit old now, I try to give the coil an easier life by not having to make a spark jump the same gap it had to when it was new.

[smud6ie]

Hi, not wishing to be unkind but by just using a new key and then  tightening the nut by the same method was just repeating what had failed before so was going to fail again.
Diagnosis is a process of elimination,you had adjusted and checked/rechecked the obvious areas except the condition of the condenser and coil which have not been successful  so  you have to eliminate the tightness of the FW by using a more contolled method than hitting it with a piece of wood.
It may turn out to  not be the problem but but at least when tighened properly you can start to look in other areas if the key still shears.

You could make sure there is not rust or filling on the outer surface of the FW and magnet and there are no rub marks that suggest it might be contacting the laminations of the coil body.
How much gap is there between the lamiations and the coil? this can alter by improper use of a lever  to lock the FW .

The machine that I was working on has now gone back so i no longer have it available take a pic .
Anyway see how you get on with those other suggestions and we will go from there.
smud6ie

[R Tallentire]

Hi, firstly the flywheel has to be tight on the taper. Remove the key and put a smear of valve grinding paste on the taper, then replace the flywheel and grind it backwards and forwards until both surfaces have a grey cast after the paste is cleaned off. Make sure all traces of paste are removed  with petrol and replace the key. 55ft lbs is quite tight, so if you are knocking the starter clutch round with a drift, be aware of this.

If the engine still won’t run for more than a few seconds, the likely cause is either the engine is not getting enough fuel or the magneto coil has had it. Checking a coil that works for a few seconds then breaks down is easier said than done, but a quick way of checking for a fuel problem is to remove the air filter and dribble a small amount of petrol down the air intake whilst the engine runs, if it continues to run as long as you are pouring fuel in, the fault is probably with the carb. If you do need a new coil, get one for contact-less ignition as, once fitted, the flywheel does not have to come off again. The points gap is 0.020” and the gap from the mag armature to the flywheel magnets is 0.010” to 0.014”.

Regards, Richard

[Praxxus]

Thanks for the replies !

I am in the process of getting a tool made for the torquing process.
Just waiting for that to be done and some time & weather to enable me to continue 

Cheers,

Tim

[Praxxus]

Hi All !

I got it running ! 

My problem was two-fold :
1)Over-rich mixture and 2)method of tightening the starter assembly.
First one was caused by me fiddling whilst wiping down the engine, the other cause was ignorance.
You can tighten the flywheel without the special tool, but i would recommend that you use it !

My method :
Remove the pulley/belt guard on LHS of engine. Lock off the output shaft with a chain wrench (as I did) or molegrips so it rests under the guard stay.
Fit flywheel, insert key, put washer on, then starter assembly to hand tightness.
Using the special tool ( I used water pump pliers to grip the starter assembly as my tool isnt finshed yet ) tighten the assembly to specified torque ( or a good solid tightness if using my method ).
Reassemble flywheel side of engine.
Fill up fuel tank, pull out choke, move throttle to 'full'.
Start her up, and quickly adjust the mixture screw to give an even speed (i used my ears).
Let it get to fully hot and adjust mixture again if neccessary.
Throttle back to idle and adjust mixture to give an even speed.
Recheck full speed again for eveness, adjusting mixture minutely if needed.
Thats it , done


Thanks to all of you who contributed,

Tim

[Praxxus]

My tool - total parts :

90mm x 60mm 4mm gauge steel plate
4 x M8 cap bolts with nuts
Drill bits - 6mm, 8mm, 10mm and 13mm
A 19mm 1/2" socket to be welded to the plate for the torque wrench to be used.