[Yana]

I probably haven't explained that very well so here goes....
I have a 10' X 8' aluminium greenhouse that was re-sited several years ago and in doing so the guys that did it didn't put the greenhouse back onto the metal base so it now sits directly on the paving slabs. I'm 5'6" so can get in quite easily, but my OH is 6'2" and finds it a nightmare bending all the time. Additionally, when growing climbers like cues, I would like more head space for them so wondered if anyone has put an aluminium greenhouse on a brick base? Maybe four or five bricks high? That will raise the internal height and also I could have the soil contained within the brick walls if I had a central path as well.
My concern is the track for the sliding door at the front as this is in one piece and so would have to sit on a brick wall. Does that make sense?
Any ideas / advice most welcome.
Thanks 

[Fairy Plotmother]

I would think that it will be fine Yana. The greenhouse we bought from a well known auction site, was on a small wall of bricks of 4 high on a concrete footings.  The track in the doorway will sit nicely on the bricks....no probs.  (quoting the Plotfather) Of course you will probably need a step at the door. 

[sunshineband]

You will need a step in and a step down too, to avoid anyone pitching in onto their face.

It will make all the difference having a taller growing space too    Extra trusses of tomatoes at the very least 

[BigPaddy]

It should be fine on bricks. I am 6'7". I have raised my greenhouses on medium density blocks, much cheaper then standard building bricks and quicker to work with. I put these on their side for about 7" height gain. I have beds as you suggest which means nice deep soil - though no extra height for plants it does make it easier for me to pick stuff. The door track should just sit on top of the bricks as it does on the ground.

Paddy

[Yana]

It should be fine on bricks. I am 6'7". I have raised my greenhouses on medium density blocks, much cheaper then standard building bricks and quicker to work with. I put these on their side for about 7" height gain. I have beds as you suggest which means nice deep soil - though no extra height for plants it does make it easier for me to pick stuff. The door track should just sit on top of the bricks as it does on the ground.

Paddy

I had read that engineering bricks should be used instead of an 'ordinary brick' as the engineering bricks withstand the change in temperature better, and don't split. What is a medium density block? Is that a breeze block?

[Yana]

You will need a step in and a step down too, to avoid anyone pitching in onto their face.

It will make all the difference having a taller growing space too    Extra trusses of tomatoes at the very least 

I had thought about the step in but forgot the step down. Thanks for that.

[Kristen]

My greenhouse is on a couple of courses of bricks, I made a ramp (such as it is) to the door, but inside I lowered the beds to provide more cropping height, and I have a concrete paving slab as a ramp on the inside so I can get a barrow in (I have double-width doors).

Could you excavate (i.e. the beds / soil level inside the greenhouse) rather than having to dismantle the greenhouse and reconstruct on bricks - which I presume will also need a concrete foundation?

[gypsy]

I put mine on reclaimed breeze blocks and they have started to crumble. 

[sunshineband]

Ours in one only one layer (sadly -- wish I knew then what I know now  ) of engineering bricks and they have not crumbled at all after15 years.

Raised beds inside would help keep the soil under control and provide deeper growing conditions too: if that's what you want of course 

[BigPaddy]

I had read that engineering bricks should be used instead of an 'ordinary brick' as the engineering bricks withstand the change in temperature better, and don't split. What is a medium density block? Is that a breeze block?

Breeze blocks are air blocks and do crumble. The medium density things are heavier. Most builders merchants will sell them. Some are even intended for foundation use so they are pretty tough and weather resistant.

Paddy

[Lardman]

I've excavated out to avoid constantly dusting the roof glass with my head, but it's a bit of a step down especially if you're having to step in sideways, 2ft doorways are silly small.

Having spent a lot of time researching bricks lately class b's have the same frost rating (F2) as most of the good facing bricks but they do have a lower moisture absorption percentage, If you're doing a few courses I'd use a nicer looking brick and think about a DPM in there.

I'd be really interested if someone had come up with a good solution to adding 2ft to the bottom of the doors.

[Kristen]

I'd be really interested if someone had come up with a good solution to adding 2ft to the bottom of the doors.

"Good" being rather subjective here's my solution

[Yana]

Thanks for all your great responses.
I've decided to go for frost resistant bricks with a damp roof membrane liner to the walls to stop the bricks being attacked by damp soil. The step into the greenhouse will be made from paving slabs on a brick base as the step up and into the greenhouse is too big otherwise and I just know it is a trip sort of accident waiting to happen. The step down into the greenhouse isn't going to be as deep as a brilliant suggestion was made (at least I think that it is brilliant) in that the path inside the greenhouse can be raised so the step isn't as deep into the greenhouse, although the beds will be the depth of the brick wall.
Now all I need is to get started dismantling the greenhouse ........... I wish the peppers would all ripen!! 

[sunshineband]

Glad you have been able to now move ahead with your construction, Yana 

If you can, post some pictures please

I like Kristen's low tech solution 

[Yana]

Glad you have been able to now move ahead with your construction, Yana 

If you can, post some pictures please

I like Kristen's low tech solution 

Sure thing, if I can sort out uploading pictures.