[Joan Kennedy]

I am lucky enough to have got a new allotment since April, in north manchester.  I'm thinking of buying 4 apple cordons - or possibly 2 apple and 2 pear. The plan is to plant them in a line running north to south in a sunny position (I have been tyring to read up!).   The allotment site is reasonably shelterered, but I've been told that winds can pick up speed, at times.

Has anyone any suggestions on tasty varieties that would do best in my area? I'm gardening organically, so disease resistance would be good.
Thanks
Joan :?

[muntjac]

welcome joan

firstly take the trees east to west to give maximum sun on the trees. you need to make sure the trees are on a small tree graft  mine are m1a , for apples its an open choice  you need to speak to local suppliers try getting an early ripening one and a later one .with pears you wont go wrong with a conference  and an earlier ripening variety . mine are east to west and have tons of fruit every year . over 160lbs to date is the best year (2005 ) cordon is fine  or even open espalier ,this depends on how much fruit you really want to produce .hessayon do THE FRUIT EXPERT isbn 0903505312 you wwont go wrong using this for all the information your going to need

[Joan Kennedy]

Thanks Muntjac. I know of a supplier in Preston.  I'll speak to them about varieties
Joan

[fletch]

Do apple trees transplant well? I have 3 cordoned (I thin, they are planted at 45 degrees and only about 8 ft high and a couple of feet wide).
I really don't like apples, I've given a few away but they'll probably go to waste.
If they transplant easily you could have them Joan? Or I could give them away elsewhere.

Fletch

[muntjac]

when they shut down for winter  you can dig them up and wrap them up in hessian or a plastic bag if they are not going far .dig the new hole and put some well rottted manure /compost in the bottom .replant making sure the soil is pressed down heavily  to the mark as before do plant above the graft point and put a post across it at angle / to the tree , secure with proper tree bands

[Joan Kennedy]

Wow Fletch.  That's very generous.  I'd be delighted to relieve you of your apple cordons.  I have a hatch-back car and Todmorden isn't far, so I could visit you sometime in the winter and dig up your 3 plants and plant them back here in Manchester.
Joan

[londongardener]

welcome joan

firstly take the trees east to west to give maximum sun on the trees. you need to make sure the trees are on a small tree graft  mine are m1a , for apples its an open choice  you need to speak to local suppliers try getting an early ripening one and a later one .with pears you wont go wrong with a conference  and an earlier ripening variety . mine are east to west and have tons of fruit every year . over 160lbs to date is the best year (2005 ) cordon is fine  or even open espalier ,this depends on how much fruit you really want to produce .hessayon do THE FRUIT EXPERT isbn 0903505312 you wwont go wrong using this for all the information your going to need

What is m1a rootstock ?

[muntjac]

rootstocks  are what lots of fruitv trees are grafted onto usually quince. m1a is a size .m2 being bigger they go up in grades

[londongardener]

rootstocks  are what lots of fruitv trees are grafted onto usually quince. m1a is a size .m2 being bigger they go up in grades

Thanks but what I really meant is I have heard of M27, M9 etc but m1a I have never heard of.  What size of tree etc do you get and where did you buy it from ?

[gobs]

Yeh, London, you are right those are the ones commonly marketed for being smaller. m1a, what that was meant to be, he has got this keyboard disease, you see   , what there is, is MM106, M2, M4, MM111, which result in bigger trees, like MM111 rootstock in excess of 4x4m, available from keepers, amongst others. And QuinceA, etc for pears.  

[muntjac]

well they came from up norf and they are only 4 mtres tall so maybe its a m1a thats a m1 apple? as apposed to my m1p thats a m1 pear?