Paving

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grendel

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Re: Paving
« Reply #15 on: February 06, 2011, 07:57 »
direct on soil here too, I calculated the levels so that areas I had to lower created spare soil for areas that needed raising. For help getting the levels right I made sure the first few slabs were level, then made a tool - 6 foot of straight wood with a 6" block screwed to the end the same thickness as the slabs. This is then laid on the existing slabs and used as a gauge / scraper to get the soil level for the next slab, 1 bag of sand for fine level adjusments. I have the patio done 6' x 14', now the path down the side in 18" slabs needs relaying level, then the slabs in the far corner need levelling up to the patio, the level in the far corner is the same as the patio, but between the slabs there drop away about 1", so it needs levelling. Oh and I found that even a volvo cant carry more then about 11 2'x2'x2" slabs in one go, they are just too heavy.
Grendel
we do the impossible daily, miracles take a little longer.

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muckshifter

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Re: Paving
« Reply #16 on: February 06, 2011, 22:37 »
If a subase material (crushed hardcore or similar) is used it should be well compacted to prevent subsidance and side slip,the industry standard when using powerd compaction equipment (wacker plate or similar) is 6 passes at full vibration,it all depends on how permanent you want it to be balanced against how much time and money you want to throw into it.

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cannyfradock

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Re: Paving
« Reply #17 on: February 07, 2011, 11:15 »
I would definitely take the route of laying a base of hardcore first..... i.e dig the soil out and lay scalpings first then spread a couple of bags of "1/4 to dust" over for ease of levelling. Compact with a wacker plate (£10 a day to hire) or use a sledge hammer and short piece of plank.

Lay the slabs on a full bed (not "spots") of bricklayers mortar 4:1 sand/cement. A layer of weed-stop membrane underneath the scalpings will stop weeds pushing up but more important is to cram a semi-dry mortar mix well into the patio slab joints (this can be done with a piece of slate) and compress with a bricklayers jointer.

Most of the time the weeds that push out from patio slabs are caused by bird droppings (and the seeds they contain) which enter poorly jointed slabwork.

Whichever route you take.........Happy slabbing !!!

Terry           
Honi soit qui mal y pense

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Casey76

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Re: Paving
« Reply #18 on: February 07, 2011, 12:56 »
Hi, sorry to but in on your thread Jamie, but I wanted to ask a paving related question...

I would like to lay a paving path in my chicken pen to try and prevent as much mud tracking as possible next winter.

I've never done anything like this before, and no longer having a Dad to call upon I'm a bit stuck as to how to proceed.

My thoughts so far are:

1) Mark out path in garden
2) Dig it out to 4ins
3) Hammer in edging
4) Lay weed membrane
5) Add layer of sharp sand and comact (will be using sledge hammer and board method)
6) Lay pavers
7) Brush sand over pavers to fill in the cracks
8) Hope and pray it doesn't subside!

How am I doing?

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Lardman

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Re: Paving
« Reply #19 on: February 07, 2011, 13:27 »
How am I doing?

Should be fine for foot traffic (and better prepared than most of the bock paving drive ways I see being done !)   :mad:

Don't forget what others have said about the type of slab, 3x2ft are heavy and not something you really want to be doing on your own.

What are you planning for edging?

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Casey76

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Re: Paving
« Reply #20 on: February 07, 2011, 14:29 »
My pavers are 40 x 40 x 4 cm, and plenty heavy enough for me to lift by myself!

For the edging I was going to use law edging between the pavers and the grass, and have a row of bricks as the "edgers"  this will make the path 1m wide :)

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cannyfradock

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Re: Paving
« Reply #21 on: February 07, 2011, 14:43 »
Hello Casey 76

If you have read the thread you will know that many people have had success with laying slabs straight on earth/soil. So like Lardman says....it should be fine for foot traffic. I have a couple of concerns though.....1....You mention "pavers" did you mean pavers or slabs? If you mean pavers (brick size on flat) ..they DO need a solid base and a sturdy edge border....then laid on sand. 2....I'm not sure of your set-up but if the chickens will have access to this path then the path will probably be power washed now and then so brushed in sand may not be suitable.

In the UK you can buy special bags of DRY fine sand and cement which is brushed in THEN moisture added to leave a cured solid joint. I'm sure Leroy-Merlin or any large Bricolarge would stock this product.

Your post sounded like you have a good idea and I'm sure you'll do a fine job.

Terry

p.s   Alsace France eh !.......I'll do it for free if you put me up .. ;)

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Casey76

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Re: Paving
« Reply #22 on: February 07, 2011, 14:49 »
Hi Terry, no I meant pavers as in paving slabs... I'm getting the professionals in to do the block paving for my front path!

In the chicken pen, the path will be lucky to be brushed with a stiff brush at regular intervals! lol so no worries about a power jet worriting away at the sand underneath.



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