[Nirm]

Hello,

I have recently obtained a 10 pole Allotment and have just started clearing it. It is square in  shape and I want to put a path that will run centrally so that the beds are on either side.

Can anyone advise how large my beds need to be?

I am completely new to this but I must say I am loving every minute of it.

Hoping someone can help and thanks in advance.

[Nikkithefoot]

Personally I don't have specific beds for anything. I have divided my plot into roughly three areas and plant according to a rough rotation. Year 1 heavily manured and planted with potatoes, year 2 brassicas, garlic and onions, year 3 root crops.

Obviously it really depends on what you want to grow, your soil type,  how able you are etc.
Some folks live by raised beds, I don't like them but that is only my preference.

[plot-life]

Hi Nerm

I'd keep the width to double the length of your arms, so you can weed from the paths without tramping all over the soil...

Good luck

[Nirm]

Thanks so much for the quick reply, heading down to the allotment now!

[Yorkie]

I have 3 beds on my half-plot, which are about 6x3 yards.  However, this means I do need to walk on them to weed, plant, harvest etc.

[Kajazy]

There are basically two ways of doing it (well, actually hundreds, but let's not get into that!  )
1. you can go the traditional route and have one (or maybe two) main path running through your plot with beds either side. These are then filled with rows of whatever you're growing, and you leave enough space between the rows to allow walking access to the plants (for cultivation, harvest etc). This is a straightforward method, but does, as mentioned, involve walking on the soil, thus compacting it. If you have heavy clay, this will have greater consequences than on lighter soil. Digging it over in the autumn is the traditional way of countering this.

2. Divide the plot up into individual beds with small permanent access paths in between. Generally these beds tend not to be more than 1.2 metres in width (but that depends on your arm length!), to allow access to the middle from both sides without walking on the soil, and can be any reasonable length. This preserves the soil structure and you don't necessarily need to dig over every autumn (or at all, some say!), and you don't need to keep the traditional spacing between rows to allow access, so whilst you reduce your overall cultivated area (you've sacrificed it to plants), you gain some of that back with the closer planting.

There's endless theory behind both of these. On my plot, I've hedged my bets and divided it up into two - one half goes the traditional route, and the other half is split up into raised beds! I've found that the raised beds are more suited to growing some things (e.g. carrots - I can change the soil structure in a manageable way with extra sand etc to allow me to grow carrots in my otherwise heavy clay), whilst the broad traditional beds are better for others (e.g. large swathes of potatoes or brassicas, which take up loads of room).

The choices are endless, but you can have a lot of fun planning - invest in a pad of graph paper and play around!

Good luck...

[Kajazy]

There are basically two ways of doing it (well, actually hundreds, but let's not get into that!  )
1. you can go the traditional route and have one (or maybe two) main path running through your plot with beds either side. These are then filled with rows of whatever you're growing, and you leave enough space between the rows to allow walking access to the plants (for cultivation, harvest etc). This is a straightforward method, but does, as mentioned, involve walking on the soil, thus compacting it. If you have heavy clay, this will have greater consequences than on lighter soil. Digging it over in the autumn is the traditional way of countering this.

2. Divide the plot up into individual beds with small permanent access paths in between. Generally these beds tend not to be more than 1.2 metres in width (but that depends on your arm length!), to allow access to the middle from both sides without walking on the soil, and can be any reasonable length. This preserves the soil structure and you don't necessarily need to dig over every autumn (or at all, some say!), and you don't need to keep the traditional spacing between rows to allow access, so whilst you reduce your overall cultivated area (you've sacrificed it to plants), you gain some of that back with the closer planting.

There's endless theory behind both of these. On my plot, I've hedged my bets and divided it up into two - one half goes the traditional route, and the other half is split up into raised beds! I've found that the raised beds are more suited to growing some things (e.g. carrots - I can change the soil structure in a manageable way with extra sand etc to allow me to grow carrots in my otherwise heavy clay), whilst the broad traditional beds are better for others (e.g. large swathes of potatoes or brassicas, which take up loads of room).

The choices are endless, but you can have a lot of fun planning - invest in a pad of graph paper and play around!

Good luck...

That was meant to say "you've sacrificed it to paths" not "plants"...see, it doesn't take long to Lose The Plot!

[davejg]

All my veg on my 1/2 plot is grown in beds, I use "decking board" sized 2.4m x 1.2m set 50cm apart, which works for me. You could make the central path a bit wider maybe enough to suit you wheelbarrow 

[mumofstig]

beds don't have to be raised, and paths don't have to be anything other than earth 
Earth paths get compacted after a little time with walking on them and then not many weeds grow  - nothing that a quick hoe can't fix, anyway.

So there's no need for buying stuff 

[Yana]

I have two half plots and after two years on the first one and 6 months on the second, have turned them both over to raised beds using decking boards.
The first plot is for veggie stuff and has 9 beds 2.4 m X 3m. This does mean some walking on the earth but is minimal. Also find this size is perfect yield wise when planning the beds. There is also a runner bean trench that is 9m X 50cm.
The second half plot is mainly soft fruit. It has 3 beds 7m X 1.2m with strawberries. On reflection the 7m is a pain as I am not tall enought to jump over the 1.2 m so have a long trip round to the other side of the bed.  :happy:
There are two beds 5m X 1.2m of raspberries and again a bit of a walk but I don't mind.
Rhubarb is in its own bed, 6m X 1.2m and loving it there.
There are four 60cm high X 1.2m X 1.2m beds for carrots, fennel and pumpkins and double as compost bins where the pumpkins are.
I'm clearing an old strawberry bed ready for asparagus and lastly, there are 3 raised beds ( same size as strawbs) waiting for the autumn to put in fruit bushes.
I've put 50cm wide paths between all the beds on both plots and this works well.
Oops, forgot there are also compost bins on both plots!

[Goosegirl]

Try doing a Geoff Hamilton jobbie and get a board with ropes on each end so you can put it on an area to sow seeds, plant, etc, then lift via said ropes at whatever end you are then move it to another place to do the same. Treading on a board will spread your weight and not compact the soil. Will also help you keep rows straight too! Loved him 

[snowdrops]

I do a combination to suit my plot size by dividing the ground along the width & put 2 paths in,firstly using weed suppressant membrane & then replacing with slabs when I can. This gives me beds around 5 ft wide,I can just jump across if I'm careful but I try to walk around.I find it helps me to tackle a smaller area at a time & I plant closer together cos I don't walk on the soil,I use an old scaffolding board to stand on.

[LilacSandy]

Just read this through Nirm, I bet your head is spinning.  As you can see we all have different views and we all think our way is best. 

[Nirm]

Wow, thank you all so much for all your replies.

I decided to go down the traditional route of having one path go all the way down (dividing it into two halves ) and then having the beds on either side. As I was digging and clearing it just felt the most natural thing to do.

The allotment manager has said I can only have earth paths so I guess I'll have to live with the soil compacting in those areas.

He has given me some tomatoes  so I'm going to plant them tomorrow - my first fruit going into the ground. I'm really quite excited.

Thanks again for all your suggestions. I'll try and post some pics just to get some opinions at some stage.

Cheers.

[Ian_A]

I'd second earth paths anyhow as they are such low maintenance and look fab alongside the growing things. and it doesnt matter about treading it down as you are not going to grow there. And the paths dont need to be that wide, so wont take up much space

My neighbour's plot has grass paths and the plot does look phenomenal BUT the time it take him to mow and then strim the edges....I tried the grass approach on a small area but went back to earth.

And it is exciting - keep that wonderful enthusiasm. It's great fun.