[Spana]

From my own experience, i don't think a 5 kw is big enough for your room  Helen, 22x18 is a biggish room to heat when the weather is really cold.

We have a Clearview 650 with a flat top.  I think its 11-12 kw and its brilliant. Our sitting room is about 20x16 and i wouldn't want anything much smaller than the one we have.

If you are buying wood it may pay to look at a stove that burns the most efficiently as it may be cheaper in the long run. 

[digga666]

John a wood burning stove isn't supposed to smoulder. When it burns efficiently it will have a temperature between i think 300f-400f this is identified by fitting a stove thermometer which just stick to the flue by a magnet.

It doesn't matter how much fuel you have on,  the burning temp should be around that figure on the thermometer to tell you that your fuel is burning efficiently. Obviously if do not require much heat just put less fuel on but the burning temp should be in those figures.

If you burn below 300f on the thermometer you will start to produce soot and the stove glass goes black etc, if burning at the correct temp then the glass should be clear and the inside of the stove grey and not sooty.

You cant really use a wood burning stove correctly without a stove thermometer as you need it to set the stove air vents correctly, also your wood has to have a moisture content  20% and below.

[John]

Thanks for the info on the thermometer, Digga

Hoping the wood is dry enough - not sure how to find out though.

[digga666]

Thanks for the info on the thermometer, Digga

Hoping the wood is dry enough - not sure how to find out though.

Cheap moisture meter from a discount shop has 2 probes that you just press into wood.....may not be exact but good enough for logs. Mine cost 4.99 .... the 9volt battery to work it cost more

[John]

Thanks again for the info - I'll keep my eyes open for a moisture meter.

The flue thermometer is winging its way from Ebay.

[Trillium]

I found that you really need a damper right on the pipe after it exits the stove, and that is what helps control the burn. If I recall the pic of yours, John, I think the mantle might be in the way.

As said, if its still warmish (meaning not full blustery winter) outside, then yes, you'll cook inside. And some woods definitely put out a lot of heat like maple and elm. Trick is to put only one piece of that with cooler burning wood.

[Goldfinger]

All this talk about woodburners makes me want to change mine to a one that has a hotplate and oven. 

[John]

I spent a few hours reducing pallet wood to small kindling sticks today. Tonight it's only fallen to 12 deg outside so not even having a fire

[digga666]

I spent a few hours reducing pallet wood to small kindling sticks today. Tonight it's only fallen to 12 deg outside so not even having a fire

Pallet wood will have been kiln dried John so will have a reduced moisture content unless they have got wet of course.

Ash is a great wood for burning as it requires little drying and burns hot, but most other woods whether they be good or bad as regards heat output will need kiln drying or storing from at least 12 months to 2 years so that they will be dry enough for burning.

If you burn un-seasoned wood with a higher moisture content than 20%, then the fire will not burn hot enough as you are produced lots of steam and slowing the combustion ability of the wood because it will have too much moisture. Also you will produce a sticky tar residue which will line your chimney/flue and this can be a fire hazard if it builds up.

If you stove is burning correctly then your glass door will be un-sooted and fairly clean and the inside of your stove will be greyish instead of sooty black. Your chimney/flue will just have powderery dry deposits and require much less cleaning.

You will also be nice and warm

[John]

Well I took your advice and am waiting for the moisture meter to arrive from ebay. Interesting article as well - many thanks

[Trillium]

We've always cut wood one year and waited to use that wood for at least a year or more. Never use recently cut wood unless the tree itself was long dead (my favourite kind, actually).

As for chimneys, we've always had the unlined pipes coming out of the stove and whatever length remains exposed to the room. This maximizes the heat output in the room.

Immediately after that, is lined pipes to minimize creosote buildup. You can never totally avoid creosote as its part and parcel of wood burning, but you can minimize the buildup. Be prepared, with a proper flue brush, to do an annual or semi-annual chimney cleanout depending on how much you use the stove. We found it easier to hire a fellow to clean out the pipes and also check the stove connections and door gasket (which usually needs replacing every 2nd or 3rd year). We could do it ourselves but his fee is reasonable and he gets to climb the roof if necessary. In the dead of winter, if needed, this is a positive plus 

[smud6ie]

Well I took your advice and am waiting for the moisture meter to arrive from ebay. Interesting article as well - many thanks

When you check the moisture content of a  log,split and measure  in the centre which give a more reliable reading.
I split a 5 ft long ,9" diameter piece of ash which had been in a stack in the wood for nearly 3 years,at its centre was still green and my stanley moisure meter was off the scale
smud6ie

[John]

Well I'm learning loads here - thanks.

There's quite a bit of old wood around the place which I hope is usable this year but if not it will be here next year.

[ManicMum]

I've been following this with great interest, as we had decided to get a woodburner (multi-fuel) & had ordered a 5kw stove.  It was installed Friday & the first small fire was yesterday....

Very nice and warm - too warm in this unseasonably mild weather, but we couldn't bear to wait!

We're lucky that we have a good supplier of seasoned logs nearby, so will now be ordering in a truckload.

[digga666]

How have you got on John? Did your flue thermometer come yet?