[Casey76]

And I haven't even started yet!

I'm not too sure about succession growing so I may be able to save some space if I can work out what can follow what.

E.g. what can follow first and second early potatoes?

The space issue isn't really about wanting more veg types, but more varieties withing the veg.

I've attached a pic of what I plan (I rather like this online planning tool, I've found it really helpful!), perhaps you could take a look and help me if I've put stuff in the wrong area, or if I've got my beds too mixed up?



If it helps, it is more sunny towards the west enf of the garden, the further you get towards the tree the more shady it is (shaded by the house).

Due to three days of rain/hail and frost I still need to dig over the entire area, though I'll be starting at the west end of the garden working backward towards the tree.  Planning ahead (and a "just in case") I'm going to dig/till the whole area and mark out the beds with pegs/string, and I had thought to cover the "paths" with tree chippings/shreds, so if needed I could completely change the orientation of the beds next year if things go wrong this year.

[sunshineband]

That's a very detailed plan.

You asked what follows first and second early potatoes: for me:

 leeks and perpetual spinach follow first earlies

 spring caulis follow second earlies

I am sure others do all sorts. My plot neighbour for example grows dwarf French bean plants to put out after her second earlies, and some grow pak choi and other salady things

[Casey76]

See, I've just realised I have no where to put my planned (now for next year) red and black currants and raspberries... not to mention a rhubarb or two     

[gobs]

I know the problem. I'm wishing some of my old seeds would not come up. Here I have a packetful of Marmande seedlings, summer cabbage seedlings, etc. 

I am thrifty with space. I do not know your climate but here I try to grow everything that can be in winter. Everything that can be upwards. Intercrop, if possible.

A few notes:

1. Is it to scale? The land size the onion types occupy seems a lot compared to the potatoes and also the legumes.

2. I do not give a bed to legumes. You could try to squeeze them in on the side of the cucurbit and potato beds, also could hide some peas along the edges of beds near the tree. You would get a bed for roots or something else.

3. You could underplant the sprouts with the broccoli, the latter is much faster. Even with summer cauli for that matter, depending on variety. And once those are harvested your winter/spring leeks still would fit under them bigger plants. I usually would do leeks for early next year's use, these are sown in May/June and planted up end summer/early autumn.

4. Are you doing trench celery? If not, they need to be in a block, like corn. It is probably fine, however potentially asking for a bolting problem if planted in the same bed with peppers that need a tomato like feeding routine.

5. After new pots. Pretty much the place for overwintering crops as per Sunshine however there is no reason, why you could not put some tender summer crops after them (except for tomatoes-they are too close ). For example, your celery or corn or your entire cucurbit bed. Just a bit more feeding.

6. Cukes and courgettes. Tastes are different of course and you do not say, how many. I grow one courg, hidden somewhere in the compost/manure heap... hoping it dies. However, even if you are a sucker for them cannot possibly need more than 2 cukes. At any rate, if melon ripens readily on your clime the proportions seem contrary to the productivity of these plants. I'd say - from what can be seen - more melon, less cukes and courg plants.

Of course, you might be growing for chicks as well, this I do not know.

7. Up a trellis the cukes and some vine cherry tomato and certain melon also can go.

Fruit and rhubarb somewhere around the tree?

[3759allen]

the only parts of my plot that i've planned is where potatoes and brassicas go (swapping them every year to give a little rotation.

i'm planning to wing it a bit with everything else, after last year i realised that the plants don't look at my calendar and grow and crop when i planned. the only rule i've got is not put brassicas in straight after the spuds.

prob put lettuce and leeks after earlies, but see what needs to be planted when the earlies are up

[Snoop]

7. Up a trellis the cukes and some vine cherry tomato and certain melon also can go.

Yoda, is that you? 

[gobs]

7. Up a trellis the cukes and some vine cherry tomato and certain melon also can go.

Yoda, is that you? 

Personally.

[Casey76]

Thanks for such a wonderfuly detailed reply gobs

Yes everything is to scale (the planner is computerised, so everything is spaced as per the recommendations from the seed company)

The beds are generally 4x1m.

For the onions, I'm not sure I'll get two rows in - it depends on how far the sets go.  Everything this year is an experiment, and all the seed/sets I have bought are from the supermarket rather than a GC (though the GC also tend to have the same varieties in  )

Believe me, I need lots of cucumbers.  I'm growing short ones (Robin) and I can easily eat a whole one a day.  honestly my favourite salad consists of just cucumber and tomato, which is why I like to have a mix of variety/colour.

It is interesting what you say about the celery.  the last time I grew celery I had them growing in a row underneath a munty frame and they did really well.  We don't do self blancing celery here, so they are all green and strong tasting, but as I use celery in soup that is fine

[Christine]

Next year when you realise that you grew too much of a lot of things, well you will probably have enough space. Next year.