question about layers mash

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Debsie

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question about layers mash
« on: October 11, 2010, 21:02 »
girls have been with us since Fri now, feeding them on layers mash as it was what they were used to. I just put it dry into the feeder, them seem to like it and don't make much mess. The thing is by the evening whats left looks like mainly dusty stuff. Should I chuck this and start with fresh each day or can I just top it up, seems a waste to throw it away?

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joyfull

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Re: question about layers mash
« Reply #1 on: October 11, 2010, 21:40 »
sorry never fed the mash but I know if you make it wet then you are supposed to chuck it.
Staffies are softer than you think.

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lynnsb

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Re: question about layers mash
« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2010, 22:11 »
I am not an expert had mine since july, but i feed them layers mash and i never throw the leftover away, just top it up every morning. If it does get wet or messed up then I will clear it out and refill, but dont throw away for no reason. My girls are very fit and healthy.

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GrannieAnnie

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Re: question about layers mash
« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2010, 22:14 »
I don't feed layers mash, but pellets and even then sometimes you get dust left in the feeders.  After a while, I tip in onto the ground in the run where the girls love to dig it over for any nice bits they missed!  Whatever is left they just dig into the ground while scratching!

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hillfooter

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Re: question about layers mash
« Reply #4 on: October 12, 2010, 02:15 »
I'd recommend you move them to pellets at the earliest.  Mash has lots of disadvantages for smal scale feeding.  It is usually used for large scale and commercial layers as it's more economic when used in a ration based system.  In a ration system it's fed as a measured ration at set times of the day which is quite inconvenient for free range which usually use
ad lib systems.  It tends to not keep well in hopper feeders as it can absorb moisture and cake blocking the feeder.  Particularly likely to be a problem in winter.  Also it's very easy to get scratched out making it less economic and more likely to attract vermin when in an adlib hopper.  Pellets are designed for adlib systems and will keep well for upto 4 days in a feeder so are far better for long weekends etc. 

With pellets if you keep refilling without tipping out the residue they too will end up with a dusty stale feed at the bottom.  So like Grannie I tip out the crumbs at each feed onto a flat saucer in the run or old frying pan (without a handle) and that gets eaten too.  I don't like to spill old feed it encourages vermin and stale feed can be a health risk.

If you do move them to pellets they will need to be weened over by mixing the pellets with the mash increasing proportions so the changeover is done over two or three weeks.  They won't accept any abrupt change of feed types or sometimes brand.

HF
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Debsie

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Re: question about layers mash
« Reply #5 on: October 12, 2010, 19:10 »
thanks for advice, will be a while before I can change them over, have just purchased 25kg bag of mash!! Their feeder hanging so not on the ground and I bring it in every evening, so far no probs with spillage. Was just concerned that there is a lot of dust in the mash and not many bits left soif I top up then they have to eate their way through the dust before getting to the fresh stuff?

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alancane

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Re: question about layers mash
« Reply #6 on: October 12, 2010, 19:38 »
I feed mine mash and my ladies seem to like it very much as it is all different sizes from grain like to powder, it adds some interest to their eating. They tend to eat it all. I don't have any problems with moisture as the feeder is covered and I don't tend to find we end up with any waste.

In my opinion, I believe it's about personal choice. The breeder who I got my ladies from recommended mash over pellets anyday, so I think you will find the opinion just as broad.

Both are high in nutrition and recommended for layers.
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Alan
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Debsie

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Re: question about layers mash
« Reply #7 on: October 12, 2010, 21:45 »
Alan did you by any chance gets your hens from Mantel Farm, notice you are not far from them. I got everything from them and was recommended mash over pellets.

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alancane

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Re: question about layers mash
« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2010, 08:12 »
Indeed I did Debsie - what a superb family they are and much respect goes to them for the business they run. I only live a few miles away (near Robertsbridge), so it's very local for me. Are you far?
I went to their training day, which was a real great help to me - plus with the help on this forum, it has all been invaluable and my ladies seem to be very happy.

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Chicken Pete

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Re: question about layers mash
« Reply #9 on: October 13, 2010, 10:34 »
For what it is worth,when my chickens were ill we were advised to give them layers mash for a while.  After around 3 weeks we began them back on pellets with mash mixed in and they
seem to like this,however, once the mash has gone we intend to put them on pellets only.

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hillfooter

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Re: question about layers mash
« Reply #10 on: October 13, 2010, 12:04 »
Nutritionally there's no difference between mash (or meal) & pellets so chickens can be fed either.  The pelleting process heats the meal with steam to 60-70 degrees C and then they are forced through a pelleting die, the raw materials in the pellets are cooked therefore in theory the starch will be cooked and hence more digestible.  

As far as the chx are concerned pellets being larger and hence more concentrated than mash gives them the bulk they need far quicker than mash which has to be picked at a lot more.  Thus chx will spend more time bulking up on mash which can be an advantage in caged, aviary or house confined systems of husbandry as it encourages their natural foraging behaviour.  This reduces the boredom such systems can cause which can lead to bad habits such as feather pecking etc. Because hens have to spend longer feeding on mash than pellets it may make it appear that they prefer mash.

There's also some evidence that wetting mash and pellets makes it more palatable, probably because to grind up pellets in the gizzard some moisture is helpful.  Clean fresh water should allways be closely available to the feed.  Mash also doesn't need as much grinding up in the gizzard as corn or pellets so the need for insoluable grit is reduced also making it more suited to systems of husbandry in which the chx are confined and have less or no access to grit.

Pellets are more suited to free range for much the same reasons as mash is suited to confined conditions above.  There's less need for the chx to be occupied as they forage when free ranging and find all the grit they need from the environment.  These are the conditions most hobbists birds are kept in as opposed to the more intensive and confined conditions a commercial egg producer or breeder will keep their chx in.

As far as convenience for the keeper is concerned pellets are generally regarded as less messy and susceptible to spillage, hence less likely to encourage vermin.  They are easier to dispense from gravity fed hoppers and keep better in outside feeders than mash as it absorbs less moisture and is less likely to go stale and cake.  Being heavier and denser it is less susceptible to being wasted and encourages thriftiness in adlib systems.  Pellets need less regular attendance as hoppers can be filled once and then not refilled for upto four days whereas mash if fed to free range chx is often fed in troughs which need to be filled with the correct rations a couple of times a day.  Obviously wet mash is only suited to ration feeding and is not suited to adlib systems and uneaten wet feed should be disposed of each day and feeders washed.  Dry mash should be stirred before it is fed to distribute the ingredients uniformly and counter any settling of the finer ingredients.  Failure to do this results in the more powdery ingredients and minerals settling out.  In adlib gravity hoppers this can be an issue too if left out for long periods with out mixing.  Hence pellets are generally regarded as less labour intensive and more convenient for small scale, free range keepers as well as being suitable for commercial keepers.

Birds raised on one or the other (or even a different formulation of either) will often be unwilling to accept a change and may go off feed if it is changed abruptly and if changing feed it is advisable to phase it it in by mixing higher concentrations.  This may be why a breeder who has raised them on mash advises to continue it's use.

As I said either are perfectly nutritionally acceptable.

An additional advantage with pellets if you worm with Flubenvet is that it is very much easier to mix into pellets than mash.  Add a dash of corn oil to the pellets to give a very slight coating (slightly darken so it doesn't disintegrate) and sprinkle the flubenvet on the surface as evenly as possible while you mix really well.  The oil makes it stick to the pellets and not settle out.  Obviously you can't add oil to mash without it clumping so there's a problem with it settling out and the wormer not being evenly taken up.

Hope this is helpful.

Best wishes
HF
« Last Edit: October 13, 2010, 14:51 by hillfooter »

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Flowerpower136

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Re: question about layers mash
« Reply #11 on: October 13, 2010, 12:34 »
My ex batts had mash to start with, but gradually added more and more pellets.  Nothing wrong with mash, just that pellets are less messy and easier to handle.

However, I did continue to use the mash through the winter, gave it them as a warm wet mix in the afternoon to bulk up the corn ration.  They loved it!

So, think its worth starting to add pellets now, as you can still get to use the mash as a winter warmer.

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sneezer

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Re: question about layers mash
« Reply #12 on: October 13, 2010, 14:31 »
Hi there I use mash and have no problem I put in what they need and late afternoon whats left in the tub i then add water and make it like a porridge they go crazy for it!! Then any left I throw away.

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Debsie

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Re: question about layers mash
« Reply #13 on: October 14, 2010, 07:24 »
thanks for advice, Sneezer Iwill try your suggestion, they mob me in the afternoon for extras!

Alan I also went to the training morning which was great, loads of advice. Live Tunbridge Wells way so about an hour drive but well worth it.



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