[andyw]

Well this does seem to be run ok now, the only minor issue now is with engaging the times.  The drive belt does not seem to be tight enough when engaged.  It does slip a little.

[smud6ie]

Well this does seem to be run ok now, the only minor issue now is with engaging the times.  The drive belt does not seem to be tight enough when engaged.  It does slip a little.

If it slips a little now, it will slip a lot later on as the belt stretches if you don't sort it out.
It is possible that the larger drive pulley has increased the gearing  to such an extent that the belt cannot cope, try engaging the drive with the slashers off the ground and when turning,lower them into the ground.
Does the belt have bare or fabric sides?
smud6ie

[andyw]

The belt was bough new from a dealer and it looks like a fabric type belt.  It seems to slip more when the engine is at lower revs. 

[smud6ie]

The belt was bough new from a dealer and it looks like a fabric type belt.  It seems to slip more when the engine is at lower revs. 

can you post  side on pictures showing the belt with the in clutch in both postions.
That belt looks like cogged??
smud6ie

[andyw]

Yes I will post a new pic, the belt in the picture was replaced with a new one.

[R Tallentire]

The clutch will need adjusting to suit the new belt. On all Merry Tillers except the 1983 onwards Webb/Atco models this is done by slackening off the locknut on the pivot rod that transfers clutch movement from the cable to the jockey wheel arm. The lever attached to the cable is then pulled down and the lever holding the jockey pulley pulled up, the locknut re-tightened and the tension on the belt checked. Wolseley recommended that the spring should start to stretch after 2/3 of the handlebar lever movement on Cadets. I know some models have cable adjusters as well but on US imports, early Majors and early Wizard/Cadets this is the only adjustment method.

[andyw]

That's really useful I will check this tomorrow.  thanks.

The clutch will need adjusting to suit the new belt. On all Merry Tillers except the 1983 onwards Webb/Atco models this is done by slackening off the locknut on the pivot rod that transfers clutch movement from the cable to the jockey wheel arm. The lever attached to the cable is then pulled down and the lever holding the jockey pulley pulled up, the locknut re-tightened and the tension on the belt checked. Wolseley recommended that the spring should start to stretch after 2/3 of the handlebar lever movement on Cadets. I know some models have cable adjusters as well but on US imports, early Majors and early Wizard/Cadets this is the only adjustment method.

[andyw]

I have now removed the bracket and taken two pics, I cannot see where i can adjust it though.

[andyw]

Here is the other pic.

[smud6ie]

The reason i asked for the side on pictures of the machine its self was  to see the angle of the clutch arm in both positions to see if anyone could see what the problem is,I can tell nothing from what you have posted!
smud6ie

[R Tallentire]

The locknut I mentioned previously is missing so I assume the lever holding the skate wheel has been wound down until it traps the tubular bush. This is incorrect as the pivot bolt is supposed to move round inside the bush. The arm should be locked against the missing locknut so can be set at any angle in relation to the other arm. I copied the picture and text from the B66 instruction book.

[andyw]

I removed the locking nut thinking that this would enable me to adjust the arm, but no, I could try and force the a little?  Thanks for posting that picture.

[Gerdub]

Hi I am a new member. May I ask billnorfolk exactly what type of rotovator is shown in his photo. I acquired an identical machine some years ago and it has been painted over so I cannot find any marks number to show what make and model of machine I have. My machine is working very well but this season I have replaced oil and found a leak from the tine seals and want to get more details on my machine before trying to replace.? Would you mind letting me know exact make and model of your machine and also where I might obtain a workshop manual? Many thanks in advance.

[Gerdub]

Hi i have a Landmaster,very simulare machine .I had the problem with tyne seals leaking got all the oil out a nd pumped grease in no more leaks,that was 4 years ago still ok no problems though only use it 2or3 times a year.

Hi billnorfolk

I am a newbie I have exactly the same machine with same problems with leaky tine seals.

Can you tell me exactly what make and model your machine is - I cannot find same model under merry tiller landmaster? Do you know where I might get a workshop manual for this
machine. Anything youy can add would be of assistance.

Regards