Allotment Gardening Advice Help Chat
Growing => Grow Your Own => Topic started by: Trillium on December 07, 2013, 03:01
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Starting a bit earlier this year, mostly due to the fact that a lot of s.p. tubers are slow to sprout and create plants in time.
So, those who are interested in growing their own sweet potatoes, time to get your potato tubers and either soak one end in water, or, half plant one in moist potting mix. Don't worry if yours sprout quickly; the bigger the 'slip' (sprout) the better.
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I'm going to try and find organic tubers this time, as previously mine didn't sprout. Not sure if they're available at this time of year.
What sort of light and heat do they need?
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Would supermarket bought be ok to use for this, or what would you recommend? Cheers ;)
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Think I've answered my own question and started reading 2013 sweet potato thread. ::)
Thanks Trillium ;)
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What sort of light and heat do they need?
To start out the tuber, almost any sort of light will do. They don't need specific heat at this time, just kept modestly warm to encourage sprouts. Once the sprouts appear, then a non-drafty sunny window is ideal.
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What sort of a harvest might you expect to get from each tuber you start now? I love sweet potatoes but never considered that I could grow them ::)
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Depends how many "slips" you get from each tuber (it's the rooted shoots which are planted rather than the tuber itself.)
After that, it's a matter of how much space you've got to grow them, and how favourable the growing conditions are.
I've only grown them once because I don't actually like them that much - the attached pictures show just two slips growing in a half-bag of MP compost in my greenhouse in 2011, and the yield from the 2 plants (you'll have to guess - I didn't weigh them!) As you can see a few were a decent size, many were a lot smaller - I think they could have done with more warmth for longer, so I don't think where I am they would do very well outdoors in an average British "summer."
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how many slips would you roughly get per tuber?
i've had a couple in water for a couple of weeks. they have roots but no slips yet.
i've got roughly 30 square foot to plant up, any ideas how many healthy slips i'll need?
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You can average 3-5 slips per tuber; some tubers will give you more, up to 10 slips but that's a bit to the optimistic side. Once the tuber sprouts greens, as long as the roots have water or moist soil, the tuber can live up to 3 years. My tuber started last January now has 3 big sprouts on it that I'll pinch back a bit so they're ready for potting up in March.
Spacing at planting time is recommended at 12 - 18" apart with rows about 3' - 4' apart. If planting in raised beds you can plant them closer together but at about 18" equidistant spacings. Like regular potatoes, they tend to grow close to the surface
An important point about sweet potatoes is that they must have heat, and lots of it, for 4 months during growth. They're tropical, so starting them under cloches or in greenhouses is highly recommended, and pretty much keeping them there should net you decent crops.
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The ones I planted up into pots and am keeping in the greenhouse seem to have lost all their leaves - gulp!
I shall have to try and grow some slips from a tuber I think, as I really would like to succeed next year. I think if I grew them in large pots, under cover, then the voles may not win :unsure:
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i checked my rooting tubers last night and it looks as if they are starting to rot where they've been in the water.
i've got them half submerged in water, from what i've read this seems normal.
do they usually show signs of rotting in the water or do i need to use less water, or half bury in compost rather than water now they have roots?
think i may get a few more started in case these go pete tong and or don't give enough slips. best to have too many than not enough.
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My tuber has been in water for over a year and not rotting, so if yours is rotting then possibly the tuber is past its best and needs to be replaced.
Both methods work, but children love to see the water method and progress. First the roots appear, then later the top slips/sprouts start to form. When the sprouts are a good size, you twist them off and pot them up in moist compost or potting mix.
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sounds like i may have a dud spud then, good job i started early.
may put it in a pot and see what happens and get some more to put in water.
i've left mine standing up in a margarine tub, half filled with water, after seeing a clip on you tube of a similar technique and seems easier than the cocktail stick method. would this be the reason they are starting to rot?
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Oooooooh I'm in! :D
I thought the thread was really intriguing this year, and my lovely plot neighbour was growing them in a plastic lean-to he's created.
Am going home via supermarket to pick up a tuber for sitting in water...!
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Some people have had trouble getting them to sprout which may be due to them having been treated with chemicals - soaking them overnight in a bucket of cold water may help (no way of knowing whether mine would have sprouted without doing that, but they were pretty quick out of the blocks and at worst it won't do any harm. ;))
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Some people have had trouble getting them to sprout which may be due to them having been treated with chemicals - soaking them overnight in a bucket of cold water may help (no way of knowing whether mine would have sprouted without doing that, but they were pretty quick out of the blocks and at worst it won't do any harm. ;))
Now that is a brilliant idea :D :D
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I know that a number of my tubers haven't sprouted due to growth-stop sprays applied to them, but sometimes you get lucky and find one that's lightly sprayed and will sprout.
To ensure results, sprout about 3 tubers because 2 will likely be duds ;) Last year I had to throw away one of my tubers because it just rotted away with no roots or slips. The other toed the line and produced slips.
How the tuber sits in the water doesn't really matter. But you do need a portion of it to be above water at all times so the sprouts/slips can appear eventually.
The plastic lean-to idea sounds ideal because sweet potatoes are slow growers and do need a long period of heat and protection.
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i've persisted with my original 2 sweet potatoes, seems my concern about rot was unfounded. they've got lots of roots now that look healthy.
how long should it take to start producing slips? the first 2 have been in water for a month now, plenty of healthy roots but no slips.
i'm using BFB in the water as a feed to try and make sure they have enough energy to sprout, i'm assuming this is ok.
also trying a couple of white sweet potatoes to see what they're like to grow. will report results if i get any.
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Due to zip issues my SP's were few and far between last year and very small too. I accidentally ripped the mini poly tunnel zip and no matter what I tried I couldn't seem to keep any warmth in the tunnel. I did however rescue 3 of the plants and potted them up inside. I trimmed them back a bit and put them on a windowsill, so far they are still alive so I'm hoping this will be my source of slops this time round. Don't know if it will work, and I'll have to invest in a better cover for the mini tunnel, but SPs are one of my absolute favourites so worth a try!
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SP's can be a long term plant, and what you've done should keep them through until next growing season. A good cloche or even 'warm' cold frame will do nicely for UK growers.
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i'm still getting pretty poor sprouting results.
i've been putting the SP's on the mantle piece so it's warm enough for them to sprout and root. i am now however wondering if this may be too warm? i've tried on the window sills of the front room and kitchen to try different temperatures but still no great results. any one got any ideas?
i have got one potato to produce 2 slips. how big do the slips have to be before you remove and plant?
also anyone prefer putting slips in water over compost (or visa versa) to root. now i've managed to get slips i'd hate to loose them after all the effort.
thanks.
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The sprouted slips can be any size before you twist them off at the base and pot them up. Once they're potted up, they just need minimal water to keep them going. Once potted up they can take a while to get going so if you have a warm place for them now you can start that job.
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I haz roots! Wooo-hooo! :lol:
now for some shoots ::)
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Great start !!!!! 8)
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I bought two fairly good sized tubers from a supermarket and fresh to the store yesterday. I have been trying to buy some for about a week or so but the produce they as in most of the supermarkets has been pretty poor looking. Do you need to add anything to the water and how often or do you have to change the water or just add more to it.
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You don't need to add anything to the water but non-chlorinated water is much better. Because my house has central heat, I find most of the water evaporates so I must top it up regularly. Otherwise, I'd just toss out the old water about every 2 weeks and replace with fresh. Keep the container in a sunny, non-drafty window.
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Thanks Trillium, I will replace the water tonight with spring water and hopefully that will help. Regards Eric :D
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I fancy trying this, am I too late to start? Seeing as some of you started back in December.
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I keep meaning to do this and last year nearly did, till I checked out storing them. I know this is jumping the gun, Trillium, but what is the best way to store sweet potatoes or prepare them for storage?
I can give them plenty of heat over the summer, but where I live the climate is very dry rather than humid. I can water while growing, but can't give them humid conditions while they 'cure' (if that's the right word).
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Marispiper, start your sweet potato as soon as possible, keep it in a warm place and with luck it might sprout very soon. You can only try and keep fingers crossed.
Snoop, sweet potatoes are cured right after digging up so that any wounds can heal, the skin thickens for storage, and most importantly, starches turn to sugar. Spain will be the ideal place for them.
Here's the curing and storage instructions from the North Carolina Sweet Potato Commission. The humidity levels might be difficult to maintain, but I'm sure you'll be creative.
Curing should be started within 1 to 2 hours of harvest and continued for 4 to 7 days at 80 to 85 degrees and 90 to 95 % relative humidity with ample ventilation for about 5 days. Rooms with 100 % relative humidity should be avoided so that the surface of the sweet potatoes will not be completely wet, resulting in more disease. Earlier in the season, when the soil and air temperatures are higher, the roots will cure in a shorter time than later in the season when the roots start out cooler. Sweet potatoes are normally stored in bulk containers that hold from 20 to 60 bushels.
Storage temperatures are very important. Long-term storage areas should be maintained at 55 to 60 degrees with 85 % relative humidity and with sufficient venting to produce a total volume change of air at least once a day. Above 60 degrees, internal breakdown, shrinking and sprouting can occur. Temperatures below 55 degrees may cause hardcore, a disorder where a whitish, hard area appears in the cooked sweet potato. Properly cured and stored sweet potatoes can be held up to 12 months with little reduction in quality. Shrinkage occurs at 1 to 2 % per month if cured, 2 to 5 % if uncured. In some cultivars, pithiness also increases with length of storage.
Citation for above copied text:
http://www.ncsweetpotatoes.com/sweet-potato-industry/growing-sweet-potatoes-in-north-carolina/curing-and-storing/
EDITED by Admin.
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Crumbs, those are high relative humidity figures. I could probably come up with some way of curing them in some kind of chamber, but it's likely that the temperature would rise too high. And I'd be hard put to store them. I'll have to ponder on the matter.
How do they do if left in the ground? Badly, I imagine.
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If you left the foliage on, they'd continue to grow as long as the growing temps are warm.
Frankly, I don't know of many people who can attain that high humidity level, but then, that's for optimal long term storage, about 1 year, and few of us grow that many.
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Thanks Trillium. I'll see if I can find any sweet potatoes at my local grocer's.
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The year I grew them, I washed the tubers and then left them on newspaper in a warm kitchen for about a week.
I then wrapped them loosely in the newspaper, put them in a plastic bag and hid them in the cupboard under the stairs.
Some of that is probably not far off what Trillium's article suggests for curing and storage, but in any event even the tiddlers were still in good condition the following spring (if you're wondering why I hadn't eaten them it's because I'm not that fond of sweet potatoes, and if you're also wondering why I grew them the answer has to be "to see if I could!")
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Thanks JayG. Humidity in my kitchen is usually 60% or under, most I've ever seen (after weeks of constant rain) is 80%. I think I'd have to keep them in some kind of container to get the humidity high enough, but then ventilation becomes a problem. Anyway, I'm going to give it a go. We love them and they're quite expensive here (1.50 euros and upwards a kilo, as compared to 40 cents a kilo for good conventional potatoes at this time of year).
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I had roots showing a month ago, now there are lots but no shoots. Is there anything I can do to encourage them? Patience is not one of my skills...
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I've got a few small roots but no where near as many as I had last year. Think ill buy another spud to be on the safe side.
Has anyone else noticed how grotesque and huge all the non organic sweet potatos are in the supermarkets! they never used to be so pumped!
think I'll also add the tiniest drop of fertiliser to their water
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think I'll also add the tiniest drop of fertiliser to their water
top tip - am pinching that! :)
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It does take a while for shoots on top to appear so patience is needed, as well as changing the water now and then and ensuring it's in a draft free sunny spot.
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Just got home to my lovely green bushy SP's........ :ohmy:
(http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b619/louiseblake1989/image_zps5f8dfe2a.jpg)
Think the plant babysitter is sacked :(
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what's the minimum night time temperature that SP's will tolerate?
i'm tempted to start taking them into the tunnel and bringing them back in when/ if the nights get cold.
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Once they're outside, 70F is the coolest they will still do well in. Row covers, cloches and greenhouses are highly recommended for cooler areas.
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I'm out of this game this year. I knocked off the root system when I was changing the water. ::)
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The tuber might still put out top shoots, so keep trying that one in water.
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we're still struggling to get temperatures over night temperatures above 10 degree's C (50F). the poly tunnel is always hot during the day now, even with limited sunlight.
i am going away for 2 weeks in a couple of weeks time and it would be easier if they were planted out so my father in law can water while i'm away.
would i be able to get away with them in the tunnel if the over night temperatures are still on the low side?
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Just discovered this thread ::) I had been wondering about growing SP as I love them. One day I was in the animal supply place and they had some strange looking ´dead looking´ cuttings, I asked what they were- sweet potatoes!! So I now have 8 planted up at the edge of my veg plot. I have been told they need loads of feed and loads of water. Will be interesting what I get from the plants. It is in the mid 30´s here, so should be warm enough for them :lol:
Pamela
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i was just going to ask how much water SP's need.
mine are in the tunnel now with plenty of mulch, but the leaves do look droopy sometimes but watering doesn't seem to make a huge difference like it usually does when other plants are dry. they do seem to recover and perk up but there is not huge amounts of growth from them.
would a good soaking in the evening help or watering little and often?
is it worth adding fertiliser to them?
or are they just struggling in their new position?
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How do you know when the SP are ready to lift? Mine are growing well, one lot is really spreading. But who knows what is below the surface!
Pamela
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Just found this. I have a sweet potatoe growing in old chicken poo bucket. It looks healthy and is climbing well with the cucumbers. Good to find somewhere I can gat advice. I bought it on impulse as I like try some thing new each year.
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How do you know when the SP are ready to lift? Mine are growing well, one lot is really spreading. But who knows what is below the surface!
Pamela
From memory (given reasonably consistent high temperatures), I would work on 16-20 weeks from establishment.
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My SP plants are doing brilliantly on the plot in all this heat! I'm throwing plenty of water on them once a week.
I have put some plants inbetween tom plants and these seem a little smaller so I wouldnt reccomend inter cropping them with tall plants.
We have a little slug damage afte rthe recent showers but I am probably over run with slugs as I just dont have the time at the mo to go slug picking.
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I asked our neighbour when they would be ready- after the feria was the reply, so mid September. Here everything is always ´after Semana Santa (Easter week) or after the feria, so mid September´ No matter if Semana Santa is early orlate, it is always the week they go by for planting up things! :lol: :lol:
Pamela
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My plants have got big this year 3ft round maybe hoping there's something in the ground worth having
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Dug some up- they were small but tasty. We have had rain for a few days sohopefully it will spur what is in the ground to fatten up some more.
Pamela
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I dug one of my plants up this week to check on the size of the tubers. Slugs had distroyes the tubers closest to the surface. So I dug the rest of the plants up! some nice fat tubers but lots of damaged tubers.
Slug damage
(http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx118/akaemzybabe/A97D74EA-4149-4E53-8723-3C504BDBE56B_zpsbbphw6dy.jpg) (http://s747.photobucket.com/user/akaemzybabe/media/A97D74EA-4149-4E53-8723-3C504BDBE56B_zpsbbphw6dy.jpg.html)
(http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx118/akaemzybabe/A7694E65-D4DC-4FD8-A0B2-BD0BAB158B5E_zpssls3bjla.jpg) (http://s747.photobucket.com/user/akaemzybabe/media/A7694E65-D4DC-4FD8-A0B2-BD0BAB158B5E_zpssls3bjla.jpg.html)
Tubers (http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx118/akaemzybabe/A67671A7-210F-4903-9AD5-6A1B7D1BE408_zpsenhatlqf.jpg) (http://s747.photobucket.com/user/akaemzybabe/media/A67671A7-210F-4903-9AD5-6A1B7D1BE408_zpsenhatlqf.jpg.html)
The edable ones (http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx118/akaemzybabe/37EAD457-FD2F-4947-BF3E-CB2DE40AAC7A_zpsjmrzzlws.jpg) (http://s747.photobucket.com/user/akaemzybabe/media/37EAD457-FD2F-4947-BF3E-CB2DE40AAC7A_zpsjmrzzlws.jpg.html)
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Dug the rest up this morning- not too bad a crop- glad it is just me who likes them though- I will not have to share. I will def grow them next year.
Pamela