[DanielCoffey]

When we move to our new dwelling in South Ayrshire this summer, we will have half an acre of partly shaded beech wood which has never been developed, roughly half of which will be open and available for gardening. As yet we do not know the amount of shade so I intend to keep a diary for the first year simply marking the shade, drainage issues and wind while we settle in and work out what we want do do with the place.

As part of the site survey prior to our purchase of the plot, we had some soil bores taken to deduce the structure under the ground and these are the results...

0m- 0.4m   Vegetation and topsoil.
0.4- 0.8m   Firm brown mottled stony clay.
0.8m-2.0m   Firm, becoming stiff brown and orange mottled stony clay.

My main question is how much work is this soil likely to need to be suitable for growing the usual British veg selection and what common issues may I encounter. The neighbouring field is active paddock with horses and is open to the prevailing wind with no windbreak (yet) so that will have to be addressed.

Given we have roughly thirty thin beech trees as well as adjoining mixed woodland, should I start establishing a leaf mold area right away? What size of area should I set aside for that task? Are there any plans for long-lasting leaf mold or compost bins that are a little more formal than re-purposed pallets?

I do intend to have an electric chipper to deal with the woody twiggy bits that are too course to go into the compost but too small for fuel.

[mumofstig]

That's a fair depth of topsoil to start with, so lots of compost and manure in and you'll be well on the way IMO, eventually the extra organics added will get worms to help do the work for you.

However, I don't think there's anything better than the old double digging, and loosening the under layer as you go, if your back is up to the work. It really does improve the clay and helps with drainage. A rotovator may not dig deep enough to work on the clay layer, if you really are aiming for a deeper topsoil?

So yes, in the meantime, collect as many leaves as you can, and then fill a separate bin for grass and other green waste, it will all help in the process.

Good luck with the new garden.

[Paul Plots]

Sounds as if someone is going to be busy!

For leaves: I'd make a ring of chicken-wire/mesh of about 1.5m diameter and simply plonk them in there. You could do several. With a layer of cardboard on the top and a few bricks or fallen timber to keep everything where you want it = job done.

Advantage - quick, easy to fill and empty, easy to move when they've done their job or you need to re-site them. In-between trees in or out of the sun would do.

Improving the soil structure: Double dig is the way to go as mumofstig says. Slow going but enjoyable if you don't try to rush it... Breaks up the lower levels, lets in air and gives the worms a chance. Plonk in any green vegetable matter apart from weed roots that might make their way back up again.

You could even drop some of those not yet decayed leaves deep down in the bottom.... eventually (over the years) you'll dig and turn them back up to the surface but they'll be nicely decayed by then. Grass mowings - compost them first or plonk in as you dig late autumn.

After Year 1 you will have compost bins / heaps to empty and contents to dig in.

To start with... pick a bit of a patch, skim the top and have a go at double-digging a patch so you can plonk in a few runner beans or beetroot and a few tatties. Easy crops and something to get you started while you get to know the site well and plan for the future. Herbs from seed can be useful too.

Experiment.
That's what I'd want to do......... get stuck in 1st season and learn from my mistakes - I'm particularly good at those 

Wishing you loads of luck and even more pleasure.

[DanielCoffey]

We have already decided that we want a decent number of fruit trees and possibly a soft fruit cage too so I will have to plan for those depending on sun. Those will just need a good chunk digging out and loosening underneath to  break up the clay.

Nice tip about putting something in the first season although it is likely to be September before we are on site.

One thing I do know is that there will be rabbits, possibly in large numbers. They are not burrowing on the site but they are certainly feeding there. When I viewed the plot there were piles (and I do mean piles) of rabbit poo. I spotted one rabbit crossing the paddock at a dead run. As a townie it looked about the size of a decent dog too! There are a few pheasants in the area as well.

Fortunately we are three miles from an independent garden centre and five miles from a chain garden centre so supplies are available.

[snowdrops]

Ok double digging on it would be ideal, have a Google of back to Eden style of gardening. If you won't be on site until September that might be the way to go, also you could get lots of manure to cover the area for the winter. Also take a look at Charles Dowding no dig gardening. Sounds like you might need to factor on fencing against rabbits as a priority & be prepared for netting against pheasants. Good luck will look forward to some photos

[Paul Plots]

I think you are right snowdrops - rabbit and pheasant barriers sound a must!

I think shares in a wire-mesh company might be the way to go.... as well as leaving some large chunks of land for the wild-life. Bird boxes, bat boxes, a decent book on wildlife identification  (you are almost bound to find slow worms).... a place for visitors to plonk a tent, a wood store.. and a pond!

Oh boy it sounds inviting. How about an autumn "Digging Party"? Never mind bring-a-bottle. You could make it: Bring-a-spade / or fork Party.

Photos and a progress diary would be worth considering.

Would debris netting keep rabbits out? Probably not... I guess a barrier would need to go below ground level.

[AlaninCarlisle]

Keeping rabbits out is a must. From bitter experience here, you need a 1.2 metre wide wire mesh buried to a depth of about 20cm to give you a nett hight of about a metre. A tip here, wire mesh varies enormously in price so shop around. I bought mine in 50m rolls on-line at half the price offered by local traders. Also shop around for wooden fence posts. I bought treated 5ft X 3" diameter round-section ones at around £1 each. You'll need a post every 6 - 8 ft. Sorry to jump around from metric to Imperial measurements, but that's the way it is in that industry

[DanielCoffey]

Cheers folks - once we move in I will take the last plans from the Architect, photoshop out all the unnecessary stuff and drop a 1m grid over the top so we can see what space is available.

I suspect there will be some remedial work needed and I will have to be aware of where the soakaway and field drains are before we drop in any fruit trees.

[Swing Swang]

If you have decent access and ask around you might find a tractor enthusiast who would be happy to plough those 1000sqm for a crate(s) of beer, or you might just decide to buy an old MF135 for yourself...

[DanielCoffey]

Heh - we don't have that much that needs turning over!

I will be reserving a decent amount of the open area for fruit trees as they will be sitting right in our eyeline and a (probably) 5mx3m walk in fruit cage to one edge. Any space for growing I am happy to dig over by hand. It sounds just the sort of thing that something like a Chillington Hoe is suited for and I still have enough strength in my back to do it provided I take it steady.

[Swing Swang]

Oh...I'd assumed form your original post that the whole quarter of and acre was up for cultivation and if I had that amount of land I'd be wanting to buy myself a MF135 (or even an old T20) as a renovation project...

[Paul Plots]

Oh...I'd assumed form your original post that the whole quarter of and acre was up for cultivation and if I had that amount of land I'd be wanting to buy myself a MF135 (or even an old T20) as a renovation project...

Or.... a lovely second-hand Howard rotovator!! They are gorgeous little machines and chug away at anything if it's not to wet. I get my father's old Howard out once or twice a year. It's way more than 40 years old but still lends a hand when I need it.

1/4 of an acres not too bad to tackle a bit at a time depending on how it is to be used.