[surbie100]

If you're building them yourself, different shapes might be worth a thought. I'm on sloping soggy clay, and my inherited raised beds are brilliant. I am planning to put in some more this winter, and to reduce the amount of ground I lose to paths, am planning to use an E shape wherever possible, running along the plot boundary. I can then use the path between plots for weeding.

[bigfatwallet]

If you're building them yourself, different shapes might be worth a thought. I'm on sloping soggy clay, and my inherited raised beds are brilliant. I am planning to put in some more this winter, and to reduce the amount of ground I lose to paths, am planning to use an E shape wherever possible, running along the plot boundary. I can then use the path between plots for weeding.

Nice. I was thinking of H shapes running up the length of the allotment with roughly 0.5m between the fence line and the bed each side and 0.8m between each H. Think the E may be better in terms of coverage though although I prefer the symmetry of the H.

[Madame Cholet]

I'm half way I have beds but not raised just 2' paths and 4' beds couldn't be bothered with all that diy with boards it works ok for me and I dont have to walk on them. I often block plant or intercrop whic means the path area wasted is recovered by the spaced gained from no gaps between rows. Less muddy boots too and no soil compaction or digging.

[Sideshoot]

Sideshoot, a properly planned raised bed plot will produce the same as a traditional plot as you can grow more per square metre, which makes up for the extra pathways.  But, that really does mean properly organised, not pathways plonked everywhere.

Hi Ice,

50% cultivation is still 50% cultivation regardless of crop yield, to be honest im not bothered how other plot holders work the ground as long as there arent weed seeds blowing on my plot 

But if this ruling is to be adhered to then 50% really is 50%.