Allotment Gardening Advice Help Chat
Growing => Grow Your Own => Topic started by: Twood on August 24, 2019, 08:13
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HI
I wonder if someone can tell me if this is an issue when the leeks develop flower heads. Only found a couple (they where raised from seed) and wonder if the issue will be the same as the onions?? I have snapped them off
How do I know if they are ready to harvest??
Thanks first year growing them
Twood
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HI
I wonder if someone can tell me if this is an issue when the leeks develop flower heads. Only found a couple (they where raised from seed) and wonder if the issue will be the same as the onions??
Yes it is, so I would harvest those ones now and eat them. You might have to pull a bit out of the middles where they have a tough stalk running through them.
Leeks grow all summer and stand all winter (assuming they haven't bolted), so you can eat them as and when you want. They are just known as being cold hardy, so you can leave them if you want to. The old fashioned types need a frost to make them taste the best, but modern varieties don't.
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Hi New Shoot
thanks for the reply. Really annoying as I presume like onions grown from seed that they dont usually bolt?
They seem to be developing rust as well. British weather hey!
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Onions from seed are less likely to bolt Twood, but leeks are another story ::)
It is fluctuations between hot and cold weather that seem to set them off. Their natural life cycle if spring sown is to grow and overwinter, then flower the next spring. If they get fooled into thinking they have seen winter through, they get all silly and rush to flower.
There was a theory around in here that sowing them too early may be a factor. I did leave mine until late Mar/April both this year and last year and have had far fewer problems.
It is really annoying though >:(
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AIUI, bolting is caused by stress to the plant, it thinks it is in danger of perishing so it tries to throw up flowers and seed to get the next generation going before it dies. I have had this with leeks as well, mostly from ones sown very early in winter. I think a period of hot dry weather can bring it on, which we've had as couple of times this year. Keeping on top of watering may reduce the risk of bolting. I need to go and water my crops this weekend as the south east is experiencing another hot spell, there has been little rain this last week, and no rain forecast next week.
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It is true that water or heat stress can bring on bolting in crops. Spinach, oriental greens and lettuce are very prone to this.
Leeks are different. They are biennial so are waiting for a winter to pass before flowering. The theory with early sowing is that they get exposed to freezing as seedlings, so are on a mission to flower as soon as they bulk up enough. If they are already set to do this, I'm afraid watering is not going to stop it happening.
It is the same reason onions from seed are less likely to bolt than sets. If you can protect the seedlings from cold, they will bulk up with a view to flowing the next year. Unfortunately mad weather once they are out and planted can derail this plan. Sets are already part grown, so are more prone to fluctuations in temperature tripping them into flower mode.
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Brilliant thanks for the replies.
They were grown from seed. In modules inside on 15th Feb in the ground at the beginning of May having been outside for a month before that. Maybe this was too early as you suggested. First year too probably a bit over enthusiastic!!!. Plus as you say the weather hasn't been great particularly up here where Spring was a long time coming. I'll keep in mind for next year to avoid the seedlings being exposed to cold.
I did label them but the label has gone as it would have been interesting to see if it was the Musselburgh or the F1 Stocky from DT Browns that had flowered.
So far only 2 have developed flower heads which have been nipped in the bud (pardon the pun there) so Im hoping that will be it.
Thanks again
Twood