[daveinmanc]

got some pics done to better explain myself  . . . . .  

this is the cut off / dead man switch, works fine off the handle and opens closes as it should, looks ok to me  . . . .  




this is the arrangement that i dont know about, what's meant to have gone where 'cos it's been fiddled around with  . . .  so any help on where the springs should attach to and what they control would be a great help lol  






and lastly, the top of the machine showing the white ' fan ' that opens and closes the carb, which is meant to be controlled by the springs i presume, but i dont know what it's meant to be connected to  . . . . .





thanks

dave

[Gwiz]

I can't remember off the top of my head how they are supposed to go. i usually work on the bigger engines. I have got a b+s classic engine on a shelf at work, I'll have a look in the morning and report back.

[dorimower]

Hello,
I am not familiar either with these more recent engines..however I have a feeling that the smaller spring may be ok.??....whilst the loose end of the larger spring..the elongated loop...may well go into the loop in the link that joins plastic vane to carb spindle. I think this larger spring looks to have been slightly stretched at one point...but whilst not good will not stop a run...
Lets see if this tallies with what gwiz finds on his stock engine.?

 The white plastic vane is all part of the constant speed governing of the engine....quite difficult to describe...but basically the 2 springs open up the carb spindle to full revs...the plastic vane is then blown by air from the flywheel fins which closes down the carb spindle to a position where it settles so the revs are constant.
...... but then as the mower is put to work the effort of mowing starts to slow the engine..thus the blow from the flywheel fins decreases and the springs pull open the carb throttle a bit more to maintain engine revs and thus provide the power to mow...

 A car engine does not have this constant speed governing...in effect it is provided by your right foot...as if the car engine needs a bit more umpf you press the accelerator a minute fraction more to keep the car moving at the same speed...

I hope you can get the jist of my explanation..... :?  

What does concern me slightly is what looks to be some green tape?? that is around the tube where carb meets the inlet pipe...again I'm not familiar with these so lets see again gwiz thoughts on this ref his engine.?..in case I'm mithering for no reason :oops:  

 I suspect the carb will be fitted to the intake pipe in a similar way to earlier models by means of a push fit over the pipe with an "o" ring  within the carb mounting being the seal...If there is a poor fit at this point air will be drawn and operation will be poor/no go.

I second gwiz thoughts ref trying to start minus the blade....most small rotary mower engines with direct drive to blade will not start without a blade..or with a loose blade...this can cause the rope to snatch back as the engine tries to fire back rather than being helped forward by the weight of the blade...and of course any attempts to run with a poorly fitted blade are a definite Bad move.!!  

I hope you can get it beat and running again....

take care,
          "Dori"

[daveinmanc]

cheers dori, i understand  you completely,

have just been back to the mower shop today to pick up the blade housing and although there'd been a hiccup and it hadn't arrived, i had a good yack with the fella there who was very helpful and showed me around a working mower of the same model, and told me about the plastic vanes purpose so its just the spring arrangement i need to sort out.

he basically reiterated everything gwiz said and added a bit in about the carb seal going a lot on them so for the sake of a fiver i got one.

the green tape was my addition by the way lol  :shock:

i noticed a hole in the side of the pipe where the carb seal pushes on and for the sake of experiment to make sure there wasn't air getting in where it shouldn't. . . . . i applied a healthy dose of insulation tape lol ! yes, crude at best but if it needs a new one of what's corroded i'll get one. . . . .  if i get it started the tape comes off and a new bit'll get fitted, and yes i know it'll get hot and probably melt but if i get some life then it won't have to stay !

i'll have to hang on now till next wednesday when i can get the blade housing, fit the barb seal and see how i go from there. . . . . . . . .

i'm not beat just yet lol  

[Bigbadfrankie]

burn it in the morning

[Gwiz]

looking at your last photo, the small spring should be about an inch long, and goes from where it is on the butterfly valve directlyacross 180 degrees to the upright tang with a hole in it to right of the inlet pipe.
the other spring is as dori says, and needs to attatch to the loop in the wire from the govenor vane.if you find you need another spring and your local shop hasn't got one, give me a pm, and you can have the one on my shelf (second hand ) for the cosst of an envelope and postage.
hope this helps!

[dorimower]

hello gwiz,

 I can see the lug you mention now in the photo.....
....that little spring has certainly been tensioned :oops: ...and I was worried about the slight kink in the bigger spring :oops:  

"Dori"

[Gwiz]

it's so stretched, I didn't recognise it at all untill I looked at the one on an old engine at work!
still, if our friend, daveinmanc, wants it, he can have it and the inlet tube as well ( I could do with having a bit of a "cull" of all the old "toot" at work)

[Gwiz]

burn it in the morning

mind you, this is looking more and more like an option  

[daveinmanc]

cheers graham very good of you to offer  

i'll fit the carb seal and pick the blade housing up, give it a whirl and come back to you with the results  . . . . .  i'm not gonna be beat easy frankie, not gonna be beat lol

 :twisted:

[Mack]

Cheers boys, excellent thread, just been given the exact same motor & it wouldn’t start…….until I came across this thread, is running like a dream now

[Gwiz]

glad we could help,mack.
great avatar, by the way

[daveinmanc]

well chaps, i picked up the blade guvnor/ flywheel, got a new small spring while i was there, already had the carb seals at the OH's and was armed with some oil to top up, so  . . . . . . . . .

fitted all the new bits, added a few bolts here n there that had gone missing by the previous numb nuts who used it, primed it and pulled and got a big cough and a splutter !

primed again pulled again and same again

primed again, pulled again  . . . . . . . .  and life !!!! it burst into action at full rev's, went on to go really mad and cut her front lawn lol  :shock:

so i must say a big thank you to you all for your help and advice, still need to put the two springs in the proper places as i was guessing at  gwiz's  previous reply and covered in oil there was no way she'd let me near her laptop lol, but, it works !

have one question for you though graham, that inlet tube you offered me, is that the same one that i've taped over ? i still have a petrol leak and i can only assume it's coming from there, or is that part repairable or easily replaced by the shops if not?  looks to be held on by a few self tappers if i remember rightly? would quite gladly take it off you if it is the same one and send you a postal order/ cheque or whatever suits to cover your costs

thanks in advance

dave

[Gwiz]

I'll send you a pm with my address, how much is a small jiffy bag? £2.50ish? stamp 50p?
thats about what it'll cost if you want it. you could have the whole engine, if you really wanted to go mad...........
I'm glad that we could help. I't's great when a plan goes together!

[daveinmanc]

yep i'd love to take it off you graham,

pm me your details and i'll do the same with mine and pop you something in the post for your trouble  

thank you very much

dave